Personally I would rather shrink a couple rods (not break) than crack a piston. At least the truck might still be driveable. Most guys who bend rods don't even know it until they do a full build. You crack a piston and the truck is down.
Hell I probably have a couple seasoned rods myself.
I don't care about his financial status, just don't know why he would continue to blow his stuff up all the time. You can talk about pushing the limits and all that, but if it won't make but a run or two it isn't something useful.
Does he ever dyno anything that doesn't blow up? I am all for seeing big numbers, but don't see the point of a kill tune that might make one or two pulls.
I picked up 1k in rail just by changing to an LBZ FPR. this was on a 3200pw tune and was commanding 24.5kpsi with actual of 22kpsi. After the LBZ fpr it was commanding the same 24.5k but the actual would hold steady at 23kpsi.
What is your rail set at in your tunes?
Now I run all my DD...
I never average over 18 highway, and normal is in the 15 range combined. I do run pretty fast though, and have a hard time keeping my foot out of it, so that doesn't help much.
I am probably under 6700 then.
I pull:
spare + carrier
tailgate
rear seat
bumper (rollpan)
passenger battery
I do have a heavy ass bigchevyhitch that I don't pull though.
It would damn near bark the tires at 55 during normal driving when it locked the first hundred miles or so. It will smooth out with some more time on it.
Now when it comes on in fifth during normal driving I can feel the converter clutch start to apply then it smooths right into lockup...
my 1058 locks pretty smooth now. It is a firm lock, but not at all uncomfortable.
At first it was scary how hard it locked. I bet it will smooth out with some more miles.
I ran 7.67 in the eighth on PYO's with 265's. Stock fuel with a 366. I am a good bit more than 6200lbs at that.
What is your cab setup? reg cab? That is pretty light.