LBZ: Trans build prep

DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
450
0
16
Prince George, BC, Canada
Going with the suncoast gmax 6r-3 and sc 1058 converter. Wife agreed to building it myself since its cheaper :rolleyes. I'd feel better having a crate, but I'm liking forward to seeing the heart of the truck bleeding on a stand lol. Ill understand what's happening in it better afterwards.
 
Aug 3, 2013
898
0
16
Arizona
Going with the suncoast gmax 6r-3 and sc 1058 converter. Wife agreed to building it myself since its cheaper :rolleyes. I'd feel better having a crate, but I'm liking forward to seeing the heart of the truck bleeding on a stand lol. Ill understand what's happening in it better afterwards.

That's how I see it too, once my trans goes, ill be building it myself. Its a great learning experience like you said.. But my ally is still performing perfect so I don't know when the build will happen :)
 

Ne-max

I like turtles
Nov 15, 2011
3,361
64
48
Lincoln, Ne
I ordered the trans times from Mike they way I have both. The more info the better. Plus it was nice getting some pointers. His customer service is by far the best I have ever delt with in the diesel world.
 

03spoolindmax

New member
Nov 9, 2011
674
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36
Mi
You really just need a nice set of snap ring pliers and feeler gauges.

George from suncoast told me that you can use a penny to check c3 and c4 clearance. He said a penny is around .060" and a nickle is around .075". If you can fit a penny in to check clearance and have very slight play you're within spec.

I'm going to try it when I build my other trans. I'll still have a set of feeler gauges around to double check though. He said something about 1 of the snap rings in the c2 hub being around the same clearance also that you could use to check.
 

DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
450
0
16
Prince George, BC, Canada
I'll have feelers and snap ring pliers. I'm gonna be dusting off my dad's tools. Maybe he will finally give them to me :D

I was just a little concerned a spanner nut on the transfer case tail housing. How did you torque this nut to the 40-50 ft. lb?
 

03spoolindmax

New member
Nov 9, 2011
674
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Mi
There's really no need to remove the output shaft unless you're going billet. C5s are only used during 1st & reverse. Unless you have really high miles or they got contaminated. there's no need to replace the c5 clutches.
 

DaJokr

Slum Lord Extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2013
450
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16
Prince George, BC, Canada
Alright, I'm still trying to wrap my head around this converter issue.

I'm not doubting it's the converter, so let me say that right now. I have questioned this community before and was wrong, lesson learned.

I'm trying to understand why it is doing what it's doing. Shudders/vibrates when you accelerate around 65-70mph and does not stop whether it's the heavy tow, 90, or 150 tune. No symptoms, that I can hear or feel, when on the optimized stock. Here's were I get kinda confused:
I hooked it up to a tech 2 and went for a drive. It didn't matter what tune I used, where I was for speed, or what rpm I was at, I could not get the shudder/vibration to happen. I got it out on the highway, I passed vehicles (usually when it happens), and nothing.
Why doesn't it do it all the time? I'm still not getting any codes, though I have basically left it on the optimized stock tune since it really caught my attention and have tried not to beat on it.

What exactly in the converter isn't working? Does it have to do with the clutches? What about the flex plate, could it crack?

Any insight would be appreciated.