I was under the assumption that the LMM's were wired different then the older trucks. I should find out pretty soon.
SIKDMAX LMM painfully slow Install/Build Thread
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Might be something with pass side. I'm only using the drivers side do I won't look at it til I ever add the 2nd one back.
I just had to replace my battery that came in the truck new on oct 30 before we left to Vegas for sema. Think the old ones were 770 cold crank the new ones the replaced it with are only 670 cold crank and there only covered for 5 years the old one was a 7 year and I did not have time to fight with the dealer over prorating the cost it was only 4 years old. I'm going to find a 900 to 1100 cold crank light weight racing battery to replace this one soon.
Henry I got a 800/1000 battery from Advance Auto Parts. It sat for 6 days outside in the snow and wind not plugged in. Got pretty cold. Single digits and windchill below zero a few times and it started with no issue. Would have thought there was 2 batteries in my truck. Fits in stock location. Just thought I'd share that.
Not trying to argue but the way GM splits the cable is it really much better
been a while since i seen it:baby:
That's what I wanted but was leaving for vegas and only thing close was tge dealer down the street. If I has time I was going to replace it with a Deka they worked great in my 8.1. But might just go get one like you did there nice and cheap. Last winter the truck was parked for around 2 weeks in the snow and -10 wind chill and fired right up I was shocked after 5 days and now new one acts up alittle with the remote start only with the small battery but turns over and fires fast if you walk out and start it. I think viper may have a low voltage area were it will not try and start by remote but not sure.
I think it might be normal for the LBZs at least mine does it too IIRC. I'll have to check on it though. There isn't anything wrong with the wires though. I have my amp hooked to the PS battery and it would kill it in no time if there was a problem.
Got a call from Dan just now. They got a lot buttoned up last week and today:
Fuel Filter relocated to under/beside the big turbo.
Custom coolant overflow tank
Rerouted a transmission line that was run incorrectly (I would assume this was my fault)
Straightened out the PPE dual fueler - was at a bit of an angle I guess and could have caused a squeak.
Corrected "all of the incorrect wiring" along with moving the battery up front, starts fine.
Wrapped downpipe
Custom fenderwells
Added bracing to the big turbo - what was done was insufficient
One of the hot pipes ( I think) was rubbing up against another pipe - this was because the angle of the piping when built was incorrect and was causing a "massive boost leak" - 1/8" gap or so. The pipe had to be sleeved and extended I believe is what he said and Ill have to rechrome.
The downpipe of the small turbo is touching the firewall unwrapped so now they are having to pull the turbo off and fix that issue and wrap it and then put it all back on.
So, more than likely Wednesday or so Ill be looking at a completed truck - just a week or so after taking it down to the guys at PPE. I imagine Im going to be out some big $$$$ but the job will be finished up professionally by a first class operation.
Fuel Filter relocated to under/beside the big turbo.
Custom coolant overflow tank
Rerouted a transmission line that was run incorrectly (I would assume this was my fault)
Straightened out the PPE dual fueler - was at a bit of an angle I guess and could have caused a squeak.
Corrected "all of the incorrect wiring" along with moving the battery up front, starts fine.
Wrapped downpipe
Custom fenderwells
Added bracing to the big turbo - what was done was insufficient
One of the hot pipes ( I think) was rubbing up against another pipe - this was because the angle of the piping when built was incorrect and was causing a "massive boost leak" - 1/8" gap or so. The pipe had to be sleeved and extended I believe is what he said and Ill have to rechrome.
The downpipe of the small turbo is touching the firewall unwrapped so now they are having to pull the turbo off and fix that issue and wrap it and then put it all back on.
So, more than likely Wednesday or so Ill be looking at a completed truck - just a week or so after taking it down to the guys at PPE. I imagine Im going to be out some big $$$$ but the job will be finished up professionally by a first class operation.
My truck will not start if the DS battery is removed, No matter how big and powerful the pass side battery is. I just went thru this when My driver batt took a crap. I now run 1 battery in the DS location, and starts runs fine. In LMM's (at least mine and a few I have seen) they will not start without a DS battery. (I wanna say LB7 was the same way too, but not sure, never tested).
Naw, just the shit-talkin ones from Vegas
I think he meant Reno.... meaning Jordan.
Once I get it back Im going to be niiiiiiiiiiiiice and easy on it for a while
Once I get it back Im going to be niiiiiiiiiiiiice and easy on it for a while
I think he meant Reno.... meaning Jordan.
Once I get it back Im going to be niiiiiiiiiiiiice and easy on it for a while
What did I do? I just stated my truck wont start with one battery on the PS. Others have said this as well..
Mine starts just fine with one? I dunno an glad to hear your bout up an running again
Also not to stir the pot but the one battery should work sounds like grounding issues to me you should be able to mount the battery wereever you want to with the right cable IMO
Also not to stir the pot but the one battery should work sounds like grounding issues to me you should be able to mount the battery wereever you want to with the right cable IMO
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Got a call from Dan, its about done. They think I have a stuck/tight Intake valve. More info when they know
Got a call from Dan, its about done. They think I have a stuck/tight Intake valve. More info when they know
Damn that sucks, if it isn't one thing its another. Man your not having the best luck.
I need a set of 8 Injector spacer pads is how they were decribed to me - about 1/2" in diameter about 40 thousandths thick or so. Go between the head and Injector hold down I beleive. Anyhave have a set?
The truck has a miss - either caused by a stuck/tight valve as above, or a pushed injector or something else. They are doing a compression test to try to isolate the issue.... but this means that the whole top half of the engine has to come off again.
The truck has a miss - either caused by a stuck/tight valve as above, or a pushed injector or something else. They are doing a compression test to try to isolate the issue.... but this means that the whole top half of the engine has to come off again.
I need a set of 8 Injector spacer pads is how they were decribed to me - about 1/2" in diameter about 40 thousandths thick or so. Go between the head and Injector hold down I beleive. Anyhave have a set?
The truck has a miss - either caused by a stuck/tight valve as above, or a pushed injector or something else. They are doing a compression test to try to isolate the issue.... but this means that the whole top half of the engine has to come off again.
To check the injectors? NO. The copper washers? Or the pads that the clamps rest on? If it's anything to do with that, the top end does not have to come off.
Edit: I see, you are talking about the pads between injector clamp and head. You don't even have to pull the injector to insert that pad. Just loosen the clamp.
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Matt if you take my link it will show you a pic and the part number for what your looking for. I think I have 4 in my tool bag.
http://creaturesofthenightperformance.com/Injector-Hold-Down-Pin-P284658.aspx
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