LMM: Questions on motor removal

Fingers

Village Idiot
Vendor/Sponsor
Apr 1, 2008
1,714
84
48
White Oak, PA
Don't forget you will need to support the tranny after it comes free from the engine. I use a ratchet strap across the torsion bars or run from frame rail to frame rail.

Darn fan bolt is almost impossible without the serpentine belt on it. You will have to wedge the pulley so it doesn't turn, or at least provide some resistance. Seems to me I used a set of vise grips clamped on the edge once and let them jamb the pulley.
 

SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
4,698
0
0
37
Central Coast, Cali
www.sikdmax.com
Don't forget you will need to support the tranny after it comes free from the engine. I use a ratchet strap across the torsion bars or run from frame rail to frame rail.

Darn fan bolt is almost impossible without the serpentine belt on it. You will have to wedge the pulley so it doesn't turn, or at least provide some resistance. Seems to me I used a set of vise grips clamped on the edge once and let them jamb the pulley.

Tried with a screwdriver. No dice. About to head out to Harbor Freight to get the motor stand and an air hammer.... Greg (Stewie) says I can just hold the fan by the blades and tap it with the air hammer and itll come off no problem. Then its just the other half of bellhousing bolts and out!

Then I need to remove the rear cover before it goes on the stand, correct? Anyone have a pic of the motor from behind with the cover on and off?
 

Stingpuller

The Pusher Man
Jan 11, 2007
2,019
35
48
57
central Ohio
Belt slip

I just changed a water pump at the shop for a customer and broke the fan trying to get the fan loose. I have had many off with trouble but nothing like this one. I made a tool that makes it SO EASY now you all need to make one. I took a flat bar 1" wide 3/16 think and 24" long and welded to 1/4 bolts on it. The bolts fit in the front of the pulley. If you look there will be 4 holes. I believe it was 2 7/8" center to center but you need to measure to be sure. You just put the tool into the holes and take your wrench and loosen the fan will holding the bar. I wish I would have took the time to make it before I had to but the customer a new $80 fan. Jeff
 

SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
4,698
0
0
37
Central Coast, Cali
www.sikdmax.com
Ya Jeff I saw those slots and tried to get something in there but a screwdriver wouldnt hold it. I may make one of those bars to get in with 2 bolts. Thanks!

*now to find a damn welder around here...... :rolleyes:*
 

Osubeaver

Professional Grade
Aug 30, 2008
696
0
16
Oregon
Ya Jeff I saw those slots and tried to get something in there but a screwdriver wouldnt hold it. I may make one of those bars to get in with 2 bolts. Thanks!

*now to find a damn welder around here...... :rolleyes:*

If I'm reading the description of the tool correctly, you could just drill and tap 1/4-20 through the bar then put screws through and tighten them....no? Or you could use 1/4-20 studs and loctite them in I guess. Or press in pins...

Essentially a DIY pin wrench like you would use on a grinder hub.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,528
1,802
113
Mid Michigan
Oh man, I need to add that to my DIY waterpump thread. Get me the specs on that tool when you can.
 

SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
4,698
0
0
37
Central Coast, Cali
www.sikdmax.com
Bingo :D

DSC06378.jpg

 

LBZrcks

.........
Jun 2, 2007
5,297
12
38
38
SoCal
Tried with a screwdriver. No dice. About to head out to Harbor Freight to get the motor stand and an air hammer.... Greg (Stewie) says I can just hold the fan by the blades and tap it with the air hammer and itll come off no problem. Then its just the other half of bellhousing bolts and out!

Then I need to remove the rear cover before it goes on the stand, correct? Anyone have a pic of the motor from behind with the cover on and off?

Depends on what you are planning doing. The motor will bolt up the the engine stand with the rear adapter plate on, atleast with the harbor freight one.
 

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
15,123
14
38
47
Wentzville Mo
You do not want to mount it by the adapter, If you break it its not cheap and its also in the way to build, most be removed to get the crank out.

Hope these pics help you.
DSCF5765.jpg

DSCF5771.jpg
 

2500HeavyDuty

Book 'em, Danno!
Feb 14, 2008
2,209
0
0
Katy, Tx
www.myspace.com
Tried with a screwdriver. No dice. About to head out to Harbor Freight to get the motor stand and an air hammer.... Greg (Stewie) says I can just hold the fan by the blades and tap it with the air hammer and itll come off no problem. Then its just the other half of bellhousing bolts and out!

Then I need to remove the rear cover before it goes on the stand, correct? Anyone have a pic of the motor from behind with the cover on and off?

i used some 90 degree pliers and stuck them in the two 1/4 holes on the pulley

then used a fan wrench and gave it a good turn. make sure to wear gloves too.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc9/2500heavyduty/DIY/100_2093.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc9/2500heavyduty/DIY/100_2092.jpg
 

SIKDMAX

Highway Burnouts!
Sep 14, 2007
4,698
0
0
37
Central Coast, Cali
www.sikdmax.com
Problem..........

How am I supposed to get my truck to roll? LOL.

I need to get my trans into neutral to roll it halfway out of my garage. Of course batteries are all disconnected along with everything else, and motors just sitting there. Can I connect up one battery to get the truck to turn on and move the shift lever or is it gonna FREAK out?

Disconnect linkage at trans and do it manually?

Me es confused :confused:


Or I guess I could pull my driveshaft...... thats prob easiest.
 
Last edited: