LMM: Questions on motor removal

[SIKDMAX]

Bummer! Next time a buddy is over Ill pull it. That needs to be done before the fender comes off anyway due to the hinge attachment. I may take the fender off just to give me a little more working room..... well see. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Anything you guys that have done this before might be able to anticipate Ill have an issue with as I continue on? I know Im not looking forward to the transmission/engine seperation.

 

[slowlmm]

lmm dont have tht extra hole for the hood. imo its way easier to remove the core support with every thing atached. pull the pasanger side fender gives you so much more room to work to get converter bolts out and starter. and bell houseing bolts. and othe misc items. the more things you can leave bolted in sections the better imo makes life simpler. but some people like to do it a certain way. I got it down to 5 hrs motor out by my self.

 

[slowlmm]

trans and engine comes apart easy just make sure you get all the bell houseing bolts. if the motor is stuck you missed a bolt

 

[Osubeaver]

NBS do not have the provision to have the hood straight up.

If I look at the engine removal procedure for an LMM on alldatadiy.com it says:

1.Open the hood.
2.Remove the ground strap from the stud.
3.Assemble 2 sets of the following: an M6 bolt, 2 each 19.05 mm (0.75 in) flat washers and an M6 nut.
4.Release the retainer securing the hood strut rod to the hood strut bracket stud.
5.Remove the air inlet grille end caps (1), lift the end cap up in order to disengage the retainers. (left side shown, right side similar).
6.Have an assistant support the hood.
7.Remove the hood hinge bolts (2) and set aside.
8.Raise the hood until the service position notch (1) in the upper hinge is reached.
9.Install the 2 sets of the M6 bolts to both the left and right side service notches and tighten finger tight. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.
10.Lower the hood until the bolts rest against the lower hinge, tighten the bolts to secure the hood. Tighten the bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
11.The hood is now set in the service position.

It looks like you unbolt the hinges that have the clocksprings and if you look back behind there are "hooks" on the other part of the bracket.

Is this not right?

 

[Osubeaver]

Here ya go. It's works.... I was bored and wondering. I didn't take the plastic trim off so I didn't actually put the M6 bolts in, but it looks like it works. Notice the hook that my finger and thumb is pointing too, that's where the bolt, washer, and nut go. there's one on each side of the truck.

The bad part in the instructions I have is that there are not any hood struts

Notice my assistant.... he works cheap and doesn't complain. In fact he's still out there holding the hood up

 

[slowlmm]

Interesting thanks for takeing the time to do tht dosent look all tht sturdy thoe.to me its still easier to pull the hood and its out of the way.

 

[ripmf666]

I really see no other way around it.... each fender has a flange on it so it cant come forward, and cant go up due to the fender overhand. OK Pass fender comin off!

Pass side:

Driver side:

The top core support comes off the fenders do not have to be removed there is bolts under the hood bump stops to remove it.

 

[ripmf666]

Also why remove fenders sucks to mess up the factory body lines and having to remove everything that is supported off the fenders,You also should of removed clips to the tranny lines not just remover the fittings from the radiator.

 

[Osubeaver]

Interesting thanks for takeing the time to do tht dosent look all tht sturdy thoe.to me its still easier to pull the hood and its out of the way.

I would agree it doesn't look that sturdy. You end up with the head of some bolts resting on a sheet metal hinge bracket. But then again, it'd be pretty hard to break either of those things.

I just thought I'd try it out since I'm soaking up as much as I can before I do my own motor. Hopefully I'll have a built motor to swap in before I make this one go TU.

 

[SIKDMAX]

Whats that Henry? Do you mean I should disconnect the trans cooler?

 

[ripmf666]

Whats that Henry? Do you mean I should disconnect the trans cooler?

On your tranny lines that came out of the radiator you took the fittings out you did not have to theres a clip and the lines pop out you have yours hanging on the lines.

 

[SIKDMAX]

No wonder getting that bottom one was such a bitch! It wasnt meant to get an inch and a quarter wrench down there LOL. Thanks for the tip.. Ill put the fittings back into the rad and unclip.

 

[MAXLLY]

No wonder getting that bottom one was such a bitch! It wasnt meant to get an inch and a quarter wrench down there LOL. Thanks for the tip.. Ill put the fittings back into the rad and unclip.

Stick your finger in the hole and recenter/locate the cooler first Don't want trans mixing with cooling/leak . Watch out for the washers. IIRC one on the inside as well, from cooler to interior radiator.

Good luck Man.

 

[cdbright]

are you anywere close to orange county, cause i would love to come help you tear apart a truck the same as mine, i know it sounds bad, bud i just don't have an excuse to pull my engine YET

 

[SIKDMAX]

Im actually up in San Luis Obispo so its a haul for the SoCal guys.... about 4 hours.

 

[SIKDMAX]

As far as actually removing the engine itself - how are you doing it? Bolting through holes for alternator, dual CP3 area, etc or attaching motor plates like the ones that come on crate engines for shipping or?

 

[MAXLLY]

Facing the motor i swapped an A/C bracket bolt for longer and picked it from that point and the opposing back corner bottom exhaust mani bolt. This is where the be careful of the return line "T" fittings comes in. The chain lands/pinches them.

In a full access environement you could pick it from 2 front plate holes and 2 rear holes, but the covers are so thick i was afriad of cracking or bending one and creating a leak or repalcement.

I used a tie strap as safety strap across the other direction.

 

[LBZrcks]

As far as actually removing the engine itself - how are you doing it? Bolting through holes for alternator, dual CP3 area, etc or attaching motor plates like the ones that come on crate engines for shipping or?

We used just one chain, one at the front where you mentioned and one in the back by where the EGR cooler is iirc. If you look at Henry's pictures, we did it pretty much the same.

 

[slowlmm]

Also why remove fenders sucks to mess up the factory body lines and having to remove everything that is supported off the fenders,You also should of removed clips to the tranny lines not just remover the fittings from the radiator.

becuase it gives you sooooooooo much more rooom to work the only thing to remove on tht side is batter coolant tank and intake not a big deal at all. as far as the body line mine went back with out issue. But to each there own

 

[SIKDMAX]

All that stuffs off the fender Tommy... then its just the 2 bolts near the firewall facing up behind the hinge, and a few inside the doorjam to remove it correct? Looks like it