Oil cooling
- Thread starter super diesel
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Looks like it will work like a charm.
I decided to go settle a curiosity that I had about the oil temps that I've never really paid much attention to this evening. As we all know, oil pressure is dependent on it's temps. But how much was my question. So I shut off the coolers and headed for the hills. 15-40 Delvac, 55*F at the bottom of the grade, oil temps were 185*F and I had 23psi oil pressure at idle and 43psi at 1800rpm. I headed up I-70 toward Genesee. When I got to the top, out side temp was 45*F, oil temp was 225*F, oil pressure was sitting at 17psi at idle and it was 33psi at 1800rpm. It never got up past 35psi even running at 3000rpm.All I could think was:help:
Here lies the problem with this. As the oil heats up it also flows more, however it gets thinner as we all know and can imagine. This ALSO makes it easier to be pushed, squeezed, or hammered out of the bearing surfaces much easier. RUT ROW SHAGGY! First to go in this senario is the main bearings, next can be rod or any number of bearings which in extreme cases can include one big window out the side of the block. I'm set my oil temp thermostat to really open at 190*F. I'm changing it back down to 180*F!
Mike, ive been told that 01-02 trucks will show a higher oil pressure on the gauge than the 03 and up trucks due to where the oil pressure sensor is placed (driverside, very front side oil port). i dont know if this holds merrit but i believe it was in on of bens threads (duratothemax) that i can remember. where are the sensors on the 03 and ups?
AmSoil (AmWay) gets thin too as it heats up as does Schaeffers. This is the nature of oil and this is the reason for the higher viscosity rating (via 40w) when hot. This is also the reason the oil pressure doesn't stay at 80+psi after the motor is warm. Do this test. Take some oil and put it in a pan (regular 15w-40 will do) and put it in the fridge. When its 40*F try a pour test by putting a 1/8 hole in a plastic bottle cap and cut the bottom off the plastic bottle. Mount it upside down on a board and mark a line half way up on it. Fill it to this line with the cold oil and time how much time it takes to drain down. Then perform the same test with the oil heated on the stove to 125*F.
The 03 an up is back further on the drivers side of the block above the oil filter.
The 02 shows 75psi at first start up (till it starts to warn up) when it's about 35-45*F outside. The 05 LLY shows the same James :dontknow:. There both running 15w-40.
2 more spots further down stream of the oil pump
It's also a different gauge
You can install either gauge where ever you desire on the gallery
I run my aftermarket gauge on the PS
interesting. i dont know either. guess its not all that different
yeah there are alot more spots down the side lol. Is the factory gauge fairly accurate?
Over time all digital sensor need recalibrated usually with a dead weight
Since it's a small scale 0-100 Ish pending year it would probably be fairly accurate for many years....
I've got a new sensor for the 02 just sitting. No extra gauge pods though. I could change it out and see where things are. I'll be pretty busy today and same predicted for tomorrow. I'll post when it's done and my findings. I know where my gauge sits regularly at normal temps.
im just talking about the scaling on the gauge face. my coolant temp for the ECM will read 220 where my gauge on the truck will read right at 210 or when the gauge says 100, my ecm temp is 140.
Humm. You would think GM would be liable to some degree for the gauges. But who knows. My ECT says 165*F on the gauge and EFI says 170*F. At any rate, I was loosing 10psi at 1800rpm between 185*F and 225*F oil temp. I'm quite sure the rate doesn't improve the higher the oil temp goes (it's probably worse).
I wasn't thinking that James. The more I think about it the more I wonder if this wasn't the major contributor to my spun main bearing (as well as other too in which some were stock and some modded).
:hmm: Me thinks it's conected.
:hmm: Me thinks it's conected.
I like that test, but put the heat up to 300 where it actually runs in an engine. I will send you some Schaeffers to test since you appear to be very knowlegable on all oils.
PM me an address and I will send it out.
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I don't need the oil to know what is going to happen. Already ran tests years ago when I started running motor,trans, gear lubes, and hydraulic oils as fuel. Unfortunately I need to counter by saying I haven't tested all oils, however physical and chemical makeup of lubricating fluids that were able to run in our trucks limits us to oil selection that operate under conditions that can thin oil under a higher temp situations. If this was not the case, we would be running oils that constantly had our oil pressure gauges topped out and we would be working with shear problems from the viscosity of the oil at that point. Don't you agree?
The reason I suggested 125*F on the stove was for safety reasons, and possible accidental scalding situations. Motor oils break down quick and in a hurry when there 300*F. This is 80-90*F higher than I want my motor to run at.
The only true reasons I see to run synthetics in the motor is to secure and protect it against a higher operating temp (only 8-13%) and frictions than what is normally designed into the motor to operate at (this is why the Nazis created it for there Messerschmitt planes during blitzkrieg dives that would break down dino oils from the extreme pressures and temps). High temps is good to protect against, but if we take steps to protect it against this in the first place and keep it running in the operating temps it was designed to run in, there is no reason (physically or financially).
Still curious about this Schaeffer oil lowering oil temps 30*F. Cant find any legit proof on that. Where can I find this info? Any studies and tests on this?
The reason I suggested 125*F on the stove was for safety reasons, and possible accidental scalding situations. Motor oils break down quick and in a hurry when there 300*F. This is 80-90*F higher than I want my motor to run at.
The only true reasons I see to run synthetics in the motor is to secure and protect it against a higher operating temp (only 8-13%) and frictions than what is normally designed into the motor to operate at (this is why the Nazis created it for there Messerschmitt planes during blitzkrieg dives that would break down dino oils from the extreme pressures and temps). High temps is good to protect against, but if we take steps to protect it against this in the first place and keep it running in the operating temps it was designed to run in, there is no reason (physically or financially).
Still curious about this Schaeffer oil lowering oil temps 30*F. Cant find any legit proof on that. Where can I find this info? Any studies and tests on this?
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Www.schaefferoil.com
Everything you have stated about oils is absolutely true. But you dont know anything about Schaeffer and the technology involved in engineering an oil that is built for evrrything you describe.
Schaeffer oil is the only company that has Micron Molybdenum in it. That bonds to ALL metal surfaces and protects against metal to metal contact. If sheer does occur in the oil, then the micron moly is there to stop metal to metal contact and reduce heat from friction.
Also in the oils is a patentened friction modifier called Penetro. It works with the moly to provide a super slick sliding surface that reduces friction even in sheer.
With the 100% pure parrafin base stocks that are highly refined and no other oil company uses, will not breaksown from heat until well past 400 degrees. Your bearings will give up before you ever hit that mark.
My theory is this, you can spend $1000 on coolers and what not to try and cool an oil, or spend $60 on an oil change with a far superior oil that wont give up on you in the first place.
When was the last time you questioned what Delvac or Dello had on their labels? Those products come from fuel companies that sell oil as scrap.
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Everything you have stated about oils is absolutely true. But you dont know anything about Schaeffer and the technology involved in engineering an oil that is built for evrrything you describe.
Schaeffer oil is the only company that has Micron Molybdenum in it. That bonds to ALL metal surfaces and protects against metal to metal contact. If sheer does occur in the oil, then the micron moly is there to stop metal to metal contact and reduce heat from friction.
Also in the oils is a patentened friction modifier called Penetro. It works with the moly to provide a super slick sliding surface that reduces friction even in sheer.
With the 100% pure parrafin base stocks that are highly refined and no other oil company uses, will not breaksown from heat until well past 400 degrees. Your bearings will give up before you ever hit that mark.
My theory is this, you can spend $1000 on coolers and what not to try and cool an oil, or spend $60 on an oil change with a far superior oil that wont give up on you in the first place.
When was the last time you questioned what Delvac or Dello had on their labels? Those products come from fuel companies that sell oil as scrap.
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The factory cooler doubles as a heater as well. It helps bring the temps up on the oil to the proper operating temps. It also does it's part in transferring the oil temp to the coolant that TRIES to wick it away. It works pretty good at a stock level. It has been found to be wanting at tow levels and high HP apps. I wouldn't remove it for daily driving use. But that's up to you.
EGGSACK. I'm not a cheerleader or salesman for any oil. I need more than just a sales pitch or company brochure that's been read to me to believe in such claims. This is about truly lowering the temps in these vehicles that's been proven and that can be repeated on others vehicles to protect them. If you have proof, please provide it. If not,,,,,,,I understand.
Hondarider, you can buy your own.
I am only adding input is that you are trying to lower temperatures to make up for your lubricants shortcomings. So why not use a lubricant that does not have the issues you have been dealing with all your life?
This is coming from an Amsoil guy!
Where is the proof that Mobil 1 does what it claims? Or Rotella? Or even Amsoil?
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I am only adding input is that you are trying to lower temperatures to make up for your lubricants shortcomings. So why not use a lubricant that does not have the issues you have been dealing with all your life?
This is coming from an Amsoil guy!
Where is the proof that Mobil 1 does what it claims? Or Rotella? Or even Amsoil?
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Why offer it to mike and not brian? Funny how you will offer it right up to one of our vendors here who knows what hes talking about, yet you cant extend the same offer to someone who is not a vendor and has been right there along with the vendor in providing info, done lots of testing on his own dime and knows his stuff as well. Not to metion, brian would be able to do the same testing as mike and keep variables as close to the same as possible.
Whats it matter?