Hell ... I shouldnt drink coffee and post ..:rofl:
Ya ... need to add a oil cooler . Oil temp gauge 1st :thumb:
Ya ... need to add a oil cooler . Oil temp gauge 1st :thumb:
Oil cooling
- Thread starter super diesel
- Start date
105 sq in. (and 4.250" thick :thumb
if you can get it all in the air stream. Mine are only 1.250" thick. This cooler would do a pretty good job if it's vented to the air flow. Some one needs to snap this up.
if you can get it all in the air stream. Mine are only 1.250" thick. This cooler would do a pretty good job if it's vented to the air flow. Some one needs to snap this up.
Last edited:
This looks like a good cooler. If it's not Fluidyne, it's the same style.
I think it's good and important that folks get the best cooler they can. I didn't want to get the most expensive because not every one can afford to go that route. I wanted something that was for the every day Joe and that worked. I thought about getting a Setrab, Fluidyne, or an aviation style cooler, but I new this wasn't an option for all. I'm sure in the future we'll do some write ups on all SS lined, SS fittings, with top end coolers. So in the mean time if you have a set up (any form), please post up on this and pics if possible. Lets see what everyone comes up with. Lets see if we can keep these trucks below 220*F while towing (yea, wishful thinking).
I think it's good and important that folks get the best cooler they can. I didn't want to get the most expensive because not every one can afford to go that route. I wanted something that was for the every day Joe and that worked. I thought about getting a Setrab, Fluidyne, or an aviation style cooler, but I new this wasn't an option for all. I'm sure in the future we'll do some write ups on all SS lined, SS fittings, with top end coolers. So in the mean time if you have a set up (any form), please post up on this and pics if possible. Lets see what everyone comes up with. Lets see if we can keep these trucks below 220*F while towing (yea, wishful thinking).
Michael, would something like this work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-V8-Du...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb165654&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-V8-Du...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb165654&vxp=mtr
Michael, would something like this work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-V8-Du...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53eb165654&vxp=mtr
Maybe. I don't know the flow capabilities of it or if it can be opened up some if not (looks cast so I doubt it). Also those are NPT (tappered) fittings on there. If you tighten them just a touch to much, it will crack the housing (leak city). I like the ones with the AN "O" ring fittings. When their tight, their tight and don't leak (unless you tear an "O" ring). I use a little sticky grease on the "O"O rings before installing them so this isn't an issue. Just my opinion. You have to get what works for you.
To kinda add to this...
Micheal, Killerbee, gets $700 just for the cooler. No adapter, no lines, no hardware, etc.. His is custom, but a good quality heat exchanger is NOT cheap!
Also, unless I'm pulling a long or steeper grade with my big trailer I'm typically in sub 220* temps... barely.
edit: Temps while towing.
Last edited:
I've noticed while driving around that the oil PSI can go up and down a little from hwy to city even thought the rpm is the same. On the hwy at a constant 1800rpm my oil psi sits at around 50psi now (still higher than it was with out the coolers and idle psi remains the same). In the city going from light to light and holding 1800-1900rpm in lower gears, the psi is at 60psi most the time. Hmmm :hmm:. Also, I have noticed that my trans runs a little cooler overall now. Why would that be? The trans cooler is out in front of everything. Less transmitted heat? Don't know.
I ended up ordering one of these for testing. Will report latter on it. I have been monitoring oil pressure at the front passenger side oil galley port with a transducer and certed digital gauge. It is interesting comparing it to the factory pressure gauge.
I wanted to make sure that the coolers that I was using on the LB7 wouldn't be a restriction when all the oil was diverted to them in high temp situations. I was also curious what the pressure drop would be from the factory oil pressure location to the front of the oil galleys. I'm believing that on the 01-02s the pressure gauge was prefilter/heat exchanger. On 03 and later there plummed into the oil galley itself. I saw on average about 7-9 psi less running at speed and about 4-5psi less at idle at the galley. I used a certed transducer and digital gauge good to +-.1 PSI (one tenth of a psi). The two Allison 5 speed trans coolers haven't created a pressure resrtiction that my pressure sensors can pick up (good news). However they are plumed with a Tee that are feed by a -12AN line from the modded sandwich adapter into two -10AN lines that feed both coolers and return the oil from them at the same time. I wouldn't try it with a lesser set up though. The Fluidyne I have coming has -12AN in and out and is single pass. It is capable of shedding about 95K BTUs at 60mph (Im sure this is somewhat dependent on elevation and no wind deviation). My goal is to keep the max oil temp at or under 220*F when towing if possible in the end. The oil starts to really get thin at that point and pressure goes bellow what I'm comfy with. Cant imagine it before I was watching it so closely. SCARRY. It's amazing they survive!
Last edited:
just spit ballin here, but could the location be another reason the lmms have low oil pressue when warm. i know there is other factors, but never thought about senser location. i dont even know where its at on the lmm in relation to the 02
Jeremy. It seem that the oil pressure from every thing 03 and up seems to be lower. Seem the sensor location is what did it as verified from my relocation of the sensor on the 02 when I moved it to the front of the oil galley. I was told the LMMs pressure sensor location to coincide with same location as the 03 and up LB7, LLYs and LBZs. I haven't verified this myself with a look see though.
New cooler should be here this week and I am planning on doing a oil comparison as well (back to back) to see how it plays out in the field when the chips are down and the heat is on. I will be doing it with a total (truck and load) of 13K of weight (I figure this to be about average and a fair comparison. Even at this load I'm sure oil temps will need to be kept in check and even more so for anything heavier (ball$ to the wall can have and has had damaging results if not). I'm also banking on the Rocky mountain passes I have to contend with as a good test for the cooler, because it seems if I can keep the oil cool on these on a hot day and in this high altitude environment (3rd and 4th gear pullin hard), it should be able to handle most other places as well.
New cooler should be here this week and I am planning on doing a oil comparison as well (back to back) to see how it plays out in the field when the chips are down and the heat is on. I will be doing it with a total (truck and load) of 13K of weight (I figure this to be about average and a fair comparison. Even at this load I'm sure oil temps will need to be kept in check and even more so for anything heavier (ball$ to the wall can have and has had damaging results if not). I'm also banking on the Rocky mountain passes I have to contend with as a good test for the cooler, because it seems if I can keep the oil cool on these on a hot day and in this high altitude environment (3rd and 4th gear pullin hard), it should be able to handle most other places as well.
Last edited:
where is the ideal spot to get your pressure reading from? i alway heard that gassers need 10 psi for every 1K rpm plus 10, but never where to read it from
You can get it from the oil filter housing where were putting the temp sensor by using a Tee fitting (for using the temp gauge and pressure sensor), or you can go to one of the galley ports like I did. I used the passenger side front plug to get it for my pressure transducer. I can take a pic if you need it. Just let me know Jeremy.
I got the new cooler in today and now I'm just figuring how to mount it up to get the most flow. looks like it will need to be on about a 30* angle to get the most air flow to the whole cooler. With the -12AN 90* fittings on each side, it just fits in the frame rails. If I use this one on the LLY, I may need to mount it on the same angle or even parallel to the ground and duct the flow to it (like they use to do on some autos). Clearance and protection is the name of the game. I was hoping to only do this once and make a mess only once. Oh well.
I got the new cooler in today and now I'm just figuring how to mount it up to get the most flow. looks like it will need to be on about a 30* angle to get the most air flow to the whole cooler. With the -12AN 90* fittings on each side, it just fits in the frame rails. If I use this one on the LLY, I may need to mount it on the same angle or even parallel to the ground and duct the flow to it (like they use to do on some autos). Clearance and protection is the name of the game. I was hoping to only do this once and make a mess only once. Oh well.
I ordered mine. Could you post some pics of your cooler so I can start dreaming of how to mount it? :hug:
I ordered the 120 degree push lock fittings to come off the adapter and O-ring fittings to fit -12 AN hose so everything will be that size. Is there clearance issues or any other reason why you went to -10 AN?