I'd like to do similar headlight modifications to the lights on my LML. I haven't found any how-to write-ups or videos on the retrofit. I'm not 100% sure how the projectors attach or are aimed.
My new LBZ “build
- Thread starter zakkb787
- Start date
Same boat I’m in. I’ve found a few write ups put photo bucket can go :blowme:
I think as long as you keep things square and centered you can aim them using the factory adjustment. It all depends on how bad you are hacking things up for the retrofit.
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I bought my Rareparts for $275, but I see the price has gone up. The XD ones you speak of have dropped in price too, both of them used to be within $20.
Sounds right to me. If I run mine to the fuel light, usually only takes 19-20 gal.
Just get some of the morimoto mini 7.0s and they’ll fit fine in the lml housings. Will have to do some minor shaving/trimming on the rear where the factory bulb locks in. Then just bolt them in it’s real easy with the minis. Here’s a pic of one to give you an idea of how they attach.
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LML6600, thanks for the information! I planned to get Morimotos but now I know which model and how they attach.
These are probably stupid questions, but did you only put projectors on the low beams, or both the lows and highs? Also did the wiring require any splicing?
Zakk, I apologize for the slight thread highjack.
These are probably stupid questions, but did you only put projectors on the low beams, or both the lows and highs? Also did the wiring require any splicing?
Zakk, I apologize for the slight thread highjack.
I’ll shoot you a pm so we don’t get his thread off topic.
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Y’all are good. No worries. And josh it’s the same concept as hid In regular housings vs projector. Focused beam will always perform better.
So the abs light only comes on when making a hard right turn at low speeds. I checked the wheel bearing for play last weekend and didn’t feel anything. Can’t hear noises because the tires. Do you thing it’s just a sensor or the bearing?
its 50-60 bucks for a sensor. if you are sure that sucker is tight and you see no damaged wires/plug ends, id throw a sensor in it and give it a shot. figure out what the code is though, it will tell you what side is throwing the code (you may have posted earlier but i didnt read though to find it 
)
ive put just sensors in a few trucks. while the bearing normally goes to cause the issue, sensors still do go bad and need replacement
)ive put just sensors in a few trucks. while the bearing normally goes to cause the issue, sensors still do go bad and need replacement
its 50-60 bucks for a sensor. if you are sure that sucker is tight and you see no damaged wires/plug ends, id throw a sensor in it and give it a shot. figure out what the code is though, it will tell you what side is throwing the code (you may have posted earlier but i didnt read though to find it
ive put just sensors in a few trucks. while the bearing normally goes to cause the issue, sensors still do go bad and need replacement
Will the code still be in there if the light goes off after a few seconds?
Drop shackles arrived today! CV’s have been here. The rest of my $3,000 parts buy will be here next week. Can’t freakin wait!
New headlights FINALLY. Now I even have high beams again. Looks so much better. Got these from a site for $85. Look identical to OEM. Threw in some cheapie eBay blue bulbs too. Keeping the factory ones to split open and experiment with. Parts still arriving. If I can ever get a day off work I’ll start working on it again
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Got my wheels, tires, cv’s, and tie rods on today. No rubbing really except for the front of the liner a tad bit. Cv were easy as pie. Spend 2 hours trying to get an over tightened stripped lug but off the back. I swear I’ll bash someone’s face in next time I see them torque something with an impact gun. Do it right the first damn time.
MAY THE HATE COMMENCE
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MAY THE HATE COMMENCE
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