Well. On top of the ball joints, tie rods, and possible up pipe/y bridge leak, I now need a water pump apparently. It’s dripping down the front driver side of the block. That’s the only thing I can think
My new LBZ “build
- Thread starter zakkb787
- Start date
Oh yeah. I did it on my lb7 and have the tools ready to go.
Corbin I need to I’m dreading this shiz lol
Well. Have had a pretty bad coolant leak for a while now. No hard hose, just enough coolant visible dripping from the driver rear of the block. Thought it was the oil cooler for sure. Both axle seals are blown, and all my front end bushings are shot. Ordered an oil cooler gasket set, all new front end parts, updated manifold, and stuff for the axle. After taking the oil cooler off today (what a pain) I learned the LLY headgaskets have struck. It’s blowing coolant straight out the side of the mating surface. Of course it’s the driver side. I’d really like to do both gaskets and studs, but I guess I’ll have to settle for just the driver side for now.
Yep... gonna go ahead and do both and possibly studsYou know If you only do 1, The other will follow suit....
You know If you only do 1, The other will follow suit....
Ain't this the truth!
Well heads have been off for a week now. Waiting on the machine shop to get them back to me which who knows how long that’s gonna take. Everyone is over 2 weeks out. Got the oil cooler back together and installed yesterday and finished the front end up. New uppers, lowers, tie rods, sway bar bushings, and stock keys. Also took my brakes off to make the job easier and wow I’m glad I did. Both front inner sides of the rotors were worn funky and the driver inside pad was broken in two. New pads and rotors going on all around. 
The tie rods was the truck that I started this thread with. It was a white ECSB lbz but it got sold. I did do upper ball joints in this truck last year with mevotek TTX and they didn’t fail and still looked good but all my bushings were bad and I had a wicked squeak so I just got all new stuff for it.
Finally got it back together today. Had a few hiccups along the way. Put the rear rotors on the front. Had to take it back apart when I figured that out. After it was back together I was throwing a crank sensor code. Plugs were right. No bent pins. Wouldn’t fire at all. After about an hour of fiddling I disconnected and reconnected the gale connectors and fired right up. Had some fuel knock for a bit but it cleaned up. Somehow my alignment is actually decent even after the drop and all new components. So, to sum it up from front to back; WCFab Y bridge, head gaskets, all new rubber lines in the engine bay, full bore driver manifold, oil cooler rebuilt, upper and lower UCAs, poly sway bar bushings, tie rods, factory torsion keys, raybestos element3 pads and coated rotors, e brake drums and springs, both axle seals, and drop shackles. CV angles are slightly inverted now. Rubs the fender liner like crazy but will do a NorCal over the weekend.
A HUGE thanks to Corbin for his help and tips along the way and Brad for getting me a Y bridge to me so quick
A HUGE thanks to Corbin for his help and tips along the way and Brad for getting me a Y bridge to me so quick
They’re some cheapies I got from ebay. They actually fit pretty decent and don’t fog up