You don't have to do anything with the up pipe just using the plate. All you need to know is how to install them.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
My new LBZ “build
- Thread starter zakkb787
- Start date
I found Kennedy’s install manual this morning for them. Just don’t know what else I need to delete everything
If you are just blocking the egr and not deleting, all you need is fingers sticks and the plate. This stops egr flow into the intake. A full delete needs a new cold pipe and solid mounting so the y bridge horn doesn’t blow out as well as the new up pipe without the egr tube so it won’t crack.
Either way works well. You get a bit more flow with a new cold pipe and a less cluttered engine top end.
Thank you James. Right now I’m just going for peace of mind. At this many miles I can’t imagine the egr and cat being in good condition. Plus, especially with these god awful loud rough worn out duratracs, my mpg could be better lol
No sir I don’t. And don’t have a vin license for this truck yet or anything. Not even an auto cal. I sent tony my lb7 Eckard for tuning and never got around to getting any of the stuff for it.
Also may have glow plug and abs issues. Dealer supposedly replaced the glow plugs with 8 gm ones. When he cranked it in the lot threw a code for one plug. But light went off. Now today came back on for almost every plug. But cleared it and stayed off. Maybe a loose wire or bad fuse or controller? And the abs light comes on if I turn into or out of a place like pulling out of Taco Bell today with sharp turns it comes in but goes back off. Quirky truck. Still love it.
Need to clean the mounting surface on the hub for the abs wire. Also check for wheel bearing play.
Honestly, I don't find a full EGR delete to be worth the effort until you get into aftermarket turbo territory. Just stick a plate in and tune/fingerstick it to avoid the cracking issues on the up-pipe. And if it isn't throwing an EGR code yet, I don't even bother to block it. Though if you have some hot tunes it can push open, so a plate can help then. So until you have a code or some hot tunes, I'd leave it. My truck had functional EGR for almost 250k miles before it crapped out and I ran a plate for another 50k miles until I built the motor. The soot buildup isn't as bad in most trucks as the horror pictures you see online.
Just my :2cents:; I do the least effort possible to meet my goals, your mileage may vary.
That all said, I would re-route the PCV. EGR + stock PCV is a recipe for soot buildup. And of the two, a PCV reroute is much easier than an EGR delete.
Just my :2cents:; I do the least effort possible to meet my goals, your mileage may vary.
That all said, I would re-route the PCV. EGR + stock PCV is a recipe for soot buildup. And of the two, a PCV reroute is much easier than an EGR delete.
^^^^^^ x2
I did a egr delete with just a egr tube delete and welding my up-pipe shut. Just didn't seem worth it to me for all the piping and y bridge just to delete the egr. I don't plan to get a s300 or s400 series turbo so I kept it as simple as possible.
My future an is similar to your with picking up a 3794 eventually!
Truck looks wicked clean!
I did a egr delete with just a egr tube delete and welding my up-pipe shut. Just didn't seem worth it to me for all the piping and y bridge just to delete the egr. I don't plan to get a s300 or s400 series turbo so I kept it as simple as possible.
My future an is similar to your with picking up a 3794 eventually!
Truck looks wicked clean!
I will be changing my y bridge and cold pipe with a sdp I have sitting here. I will be pulling the cold side pipe from my mpi twin kit if you want it. I will let it go pretty cheap. I'd imagine it should fit, someone else will correct me if I'm wrong
For right now I think I’ll just go with a blocker plate. Less work. Eventually when I have more work done ill get the cold side and y bridge. Thank you tho. But hey if the price is right we will see. I’m pretty tapped out till this ford is gone
Speaking of money and expensive projects. Thinking about an 01-02 front end swap. Anybody wanna trade? Lol
Nice truck, Zach. Better than that other one. Get yourself on a budget and start a saving plan now....
Congrats you'll love the lbz mine has 68,xxx orginal miles still smells new I've put on it bought it new in May of 2006 lt3 is what mine is loaded only two things it didn't come with were adj pedals and rse but I didn't need those anyway congrats you want need a finger stick if your tuning it just have tuner tune it out and turn egr related codes off :thumb: they are the best engine gm put out but thats jmho. Don't get me wrong I love my lb7 but lbz is my baby :thumb:
Maybe you wondered this too, but does anybody on here do the Mike l springs for the six speed while doing the transgo jr?
Pretty similar spot with my truck that you are with yours, figured it would be easier just to though this on your thread
I didn't realize he was replacing the springs off what the transgo jr uses. I thought his springs effect all the shifts, not just 4th- 5th and 5th to 6th.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62681
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62681
Anyone have a picture of a truck similar to mine with stock PYO’s on 265s lowered down pretty good? No bolts up front and level in the back?
Ill dig up some old ones of my 02 2500. I had the keys dropped with 265s on black PYOs and a box full of weight. Or look up Nick (b16gsr)'s build thread he has your style crew lowered on PYOs.
Halfway de-grandpa’ed it last night. No more steps or tool box and bed rails. But a few questions. All 8 glow plugs are new but it throws a code for almost all of them. I’ve read several threads about the same issue but go figure nobody ever posts the solution because they’re selfish jackasses that only care about themselves but anyways not sure if the recall was performed. If it was though, what could it be? Blown fuse? Bad controller?
Also if I go around a curve pretty quick or hit a bump my abs light comes on. Haven’t checked the bearings yet but is that all it could be? Bad bearing or sensor?
Also if I go around a curve pretty quick or hit a bump my abs light comes on. Haven’t checked the bearings yet but is that all it could be? Bad bearing or sensor?