Build costs
- Thread starter Redbowties88
- Start date
When I started my build 2 years ago, I wasnt looking to cut corners, but I was looking to do it cheap as possible. I was into $4k in parts alone and that was some good deals on parts. The machinist planed on another $3k for basically the works (pretty much what Dmitri posted) and port job on the heads. This was with a motor that only had 16k on it so a lot of it was pretty good to go.
So if I did every single thing myself short of machine work, I was easily pushing $7k and That didn't include Fluids, filters, misc gaskets and such.
So if I did every single thing myself short of machine work, I was easily pushing $7k and That didn't include Fluids, filters, misc gaskets and such.
My engine was built by a local shop that had never seen a Duramax apart before. They do engine builds from street rods to 7 second whatever-dragmobiles. Didn't throw crazy horsepower at it this year, but it holds it's own I'd say. Still going strong so far. Price for machine work is about what has been posted. They asked lots of questions and talked to people that knew the answers.
Maybe it will crap parts all over the track first pass next year.
If I were betting I'd say it won't though. Time will tell.
Maybe it will crap parts all over the track first pass next year.
If I were betting I'd say it won't though. Time will tell.
holy shit this thread blew up!
couple things,....1. i wanna say thanks to everyone who shared info in the thread..its been a big help. :hug:
2., Ive met Dimitri in person in bowling green, seemed like a real cool guy and took time away from messing with his truck to talk to me and my buddy like we were old friends:hug:
i've talked to Trent multiple times on the phone and have rendered the verdict that he is also a good dude. always tried to give me as much info as he could and help me out with stuff.
trey (blackdirtymax) who i've also spoke with on the phone and have been long time e-friends with on another forum is also a good dude. he just comes off a little harsh here and there. hes form georga..he cant help it:roflmao:
and 3.... damn this is looking expensive
:rofl:
couple things,....1. i wanna say thanks to everyone who shared info in the thread..its been a big help. :hug:
2., Ive met Dimitri in person in bowling green, seemed like a real cool guy and took time away from messing with his truck to talk to me and my buddy like we were old friends:hug:
i've talked to Trent multiple times on the phone and have rendered the verdict that he is also a good dude. always tried to give me as much info as he could and help me out with stuff.
trey (blackdirtymax) who i've also spoke with on the phone and have been long time e-friends with on another forum is also a good dude. he just comes off a little harsh here and there. hes form georga..he cant help it:roflmao:
and 3.... damn this is looking expensive
:rofl:
Ya its a duramax as Justin once said " I own a duramax, what's a budget" :rofl: I save some on machine work cause I assembled everything myself most people let the machine guys assemble the short block so granted my little cost margin didn't include every detail it will be more with the head work I'm doing right now I simply suggested what the op was after my machine bill will probably be a fair amount more this go around
ill be honest, i didnt figure machine work to be as bad as it seems it will be, i also never gave any thoughts to the heads..stupid me i'm at 120k of hard abuse i'm sure they will need attention
How impressive is a budget build if it can't make it through 1 whole race season?
One answer would be, more impressive then someone who spent a ton of money to buy every last part for his build and it still blew up halfway through the season.
Parts play a big part in how things hold up. But so does the builder, the machine shop, the tuner, heck even the user needs to know and respect what it takes to keep a high HP motor together for a good amount of time.
The builders out there saying you can get by without all these (fill in the blank) parts are just as ignorant as the ones insisting that you buy everything available for a dmax.
Over time the good builders will be sorted out from the bad ones. In the mean time the guy's having the cheapest person build there motor just may regret there decision down the road.......
Very good post ! and hits most important points fromm all sides is this thread IMOP
ill be honest, i didnt figure machine work to be as bad as it seems it will be, i also never gave any thoughts to the heads..stupid me i'm at 120k of hard abuse i'm sure they will need attention
I agree the the heads may need attention , but tell me this ................. if you dont touch your motor your truck will easily go another 100k with out a single valve train problem ....................................... right ? or is it a ticking time bomb now
, how is not touching your heads right now and running another 50k, any different than re-assembling the motor with the heads in the same condition there in right now as your driving down the road ? other than making sure the sealing surface is clean and flat to insure the head gaskets seal right ? not trying to stir the shit hear but you cant say these kind of questions arent valid when $$ is tight , now by all means if you have the $$ go all new , hell I would have Socal stage 2 heads if i had the $$ instead I rebuilt mine myself , pulled each valve , cleaned , inspected , replaced parts as needed and re-assembled .Edit: these questions like above have been my main point to this thread all along , question whats going into your motor , think about what are actual performance holding parts AKA increases what power you can run , performance increasing parts ( camshaft , ect ) , and just simple parts needed to replace worn parts , set a budget , replace what is ACTUAL worn or broken to achieve a fullly functional back to factory or better specification engine ( thats all a rebuild achieves weather you replace all parts or none the result is the same if this statement is made true ) , Upgrade what is nec for your target HP level.
This statement above only counts if budget is your concern , if it isnt its a whole different scenerio .
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yea, i was thinking i would be fine with a simple lash adjust but now i'm thinking,,,
im sure it would be fine if i didn't touch it..but it would probably be better if i did
the one comment that i really don't get though is getting an overbore at 50k. that just seems silly as many truck have gone nearly a half million or more miles with no blow by..
im sure it would be fine if i didn't touch it..but it would probably be better if i did
the one comment that i really don't get though is getting an overbore at 50k. that just seems silly as many truck have gone nearly a half million or more miles with no blow by..
well thats good, but i hit 4k more often then i probably should and stupid high egt's are also a regular occurrence
Mine was babied I drive like a old lady never towed more then a couple sleds and only had a economy tune on it not to get your hopes up:thumb:
