Build costs
- Thread starter Redbowties88
- Start date
Too true! LOL
IMO, give the engine's bottom end your attention. Bearings, rings, and rods new. Balance is optional, but I recommend it especially if you go with aftermarket rods and/or play with the piston bowls.
Key the crank and cam.
Inspect your bores. True and unscathed? (and in spec?) Have the machine shop just break the glaze on the walls.
Check the decks on the block. Straight and no nicks? Just clean it and go. You're gonna need new head bolts anyway, upgrade to studs here.
Heads? Straight? Valves OK? Clean and go.
Replace every seal on the engine. Except maybe the manifold and valve cover seals. These seem to stay good.
The key here is during the build to check all of you tolerances and be willing to fix anything that is out of spec. That means you might have to go back to the machine shop.
Hey, i agree if it dont check out right. I also agree on the nitros but thats another variable you added in. I dont like the stuff. Im puttin my own foot in my mouth for the question, came off cocky and dont want that but not everyone needs to have the heads redone, thats all im gettin out. If mine dont check out then its an added cost but ill do all i can myself before takin the heads in to have the seats done.
i like pound cake
i complete agree on the heads. Id have them checked as soon as i took them off. same deal as if you blew a headgasket. i didnt say my heads will be in great shape when i take them off. i may have imposed that idea and i appolgize if i did. Ill do all the work i can myself. Are our valve guides machined into the head or are they pressed in/ screwed in?
didn't Johnboy say the valve guides are the devil on performance builds?? Didn't the tolerances get too tight once hot and fubar his stuff (think the same thing happened to maxed out as well maybe???) or was that something else???
Its not me I'm conserned about, I'm actually really good on pricing as mentioned through this thread, its all the people that use the same machine shop that people from all around the u.s get prices from other shops that use him!!!!
Oh yeah and slick, people from all over the u.s already say..... but trent is this much cheaper, its just one more thing, I don't take time to worry about it or read into it, its a big world and everyone needs to be taken care of and treated fair, some people might say I'm too cheap too, its how it goes
I'm sorry, but I can't make heads or tails from the above post.
Sorry short version, a lot of people get quotes from other shops that use him, a lot on this site, so let's say joe blow has a motor done by the local dairy queen for 10 grand and trent quotes the job for 5, the guy that paid 10 goes back to dairy queen and throws his shake in the owners face and says thanks for rippin me off.... it just avoids peoples feelings from getting hurt, if there were not so many people that use the same shop it would not be a big deal
Lol slick you don't know me or what I try and do to help people, so with all do respect f*** you
didn't Johnboy say the valve guides are the devil on performance builds?? Didn't the tolerances get too tight once hot and fubar his stuff (think the same thing happened to maxed out as well maybe???) or was that something else???
Johns issues were stemmed from the low compression and alot of fuel. Basically, if you run low compression and like big RPM then open up the exhaust valve guide tolerances and remove the valve seals.
No breakes, and yes you do have to know me, and I'm not a vendor, I don't advertise, I don't market, I do what I do for the love of racing, and trying to keep my truck out on the track pushing the limits every year, what do you do besides run your mouth, and think you know people I would love to hear this one
Sorry in advance for the OT, But......... How much did you have invested in your truck/motor ($$) at the end of this last season's racing? Is that a 9sec or 10sec tag next to your name? (Looked to be a 10).. I have congradulated and also stuck up for you on multiple forums in the past, but yet never met you in person. To get to the Point, you have a impressive truck that makes huge Dyno #'s, but criticizing others that have achieved more for less is pretty shallow IMO. Trent is constantly on here sharing knowledge gained through trial and error, successes and failures. These pissing matches only make more people not want to talk about there builds and pricing on a open forum IMO..
For the love of racing! That's beautiful! Don't get all fast and furious on me like that Wade cat now Dmitri.lol I run my mouth for the most part anymore. I've got an o piece of shit that didn't get down the track a whole lot slower than your 1700 horse ride 5 years ago!lol
First of all thank you I apperciate the support and sticking up for me. I did not criticize trent, this whole thread turned way south and into about pricing instead of the topic at hand and ill take some of the blame for that, I'm sorry to all, I'm not criticizing, I was just trying to make a point, talking about builds on the forum helps us all, pricing in my opinion when big shops are involved could be a little more quiet
The more miles on the motor the more parts and machine work will be needed. I know Guy says around 50k you should really look at going .020 over since the bore might not seal the best so that throws out reusing your old pistons.
All the gaskets to do a build new oil cooler and bolts and ARP studs do add up fast. I wish I could get some of those machine shop rates out on this side of the country.
All the gaskets to do a build new oil cooler and bolts and ARP studs do add up fast. I wish I could get some of those machine shop rates out on this side of the country.