Bought, wrecked, rebuilding a 2009 LMM

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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jlawles is correct.

You may need to replace the SRS module. It MIGHT be possible to reprogram the old one, but not 100% sure.
 
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malibu795

misspeelleerr
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Found these between the two scanners
Everything is plugged, and I'm guessing it's the modules under the driver and passenger seats?
 

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2004LB7

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Found this on another site

Conditions for Setting the DTC

C0292 02

The EBCM detects that the sensor supply voltage is less than 11.75 volts for 30 milliseconds.

C0292 07

The EBCM detects that the sensor supply voltage is greater than 12.25 volts for 30 milliseconds.

Maybe it's just a fault from having the batteries disconnected and will clear on its own. Does it clear with the scanner?
 
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malibu795

misspeelleerr
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EBCM should be electronic brake control module.

Seams I need to look elsewhere for the stabilitrac stuff

Since I replaced the ABS pump side does the computer side need reprogrammed?
 
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Ron Nielson

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Oct 11, 2009
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The EBCM is the electronic side of the unit and the other side is the BPMF Brake Pressure Modulating Valve. It appears the will likely need to be some setup or programming
 

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jlawles2

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Jan 28, 2010
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IIRC stabilitrack is tied to the ABS module as it uses individual brake pulses to the wheels for corrections in stability.

My guess is you need to re program / re sync all of the modules to each other.
 

malibu795

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Tried clearing the codes with the autel, no dice, did verify all fuses are good both engine bath and DS dash area are all good.

The ECBM/BPMV will activate to do the bleed.
It wouldn't recognize there's a trailer hooked up either.. but I never liked the OEM trailer brake controller setup
 

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2004LB7

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Tried clearing the codes with the autel, no dice, did verify all fuses are good both engine bath and DS dash area are all good.

The ECBM/BPMV will activate to do the bleed.
It wouldn't recognize there's a trailer hooked up either.. but I never liked the OEM trailer brake controller setup
Trailer brake controller uses a short voltage pulse on ACC/ignition startup to determine if a trailer is hooked up. I think it takes less then 2 ohms or so to activate it. Too high and it doesn't think anything is connected.

If you have a set of alligator clips and a headlight bulb you can connect that to the trailer plug and see if it detects that. Might need a helper so when you cycle the key on, you should see a brief pulse or flash. If nothing then you have a disconnect or bad connection in the harness before the trailer connector pins. I had that issue in the connector on the back side of the trailer socket
 

malibu795

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Stuff is way to sensitive/smart/dumb.
hooking the trailer up was shits and giggles thin, it's probably off due to the stabilicrap not working "right".

I'll be running wire for the P2 brake controller I have sitting here. Just got to relearn where the brake light switch wire is. I don't remember how I did it on my dually
 

malibu795

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Had an early day called up Hicksville guys to see if they had some parts, mainly after a complete spare tire mount, and the additional DIC buttons.

Supposedly all steering wheel controls air bad and horn go through the "clock spring"?
Horn doesn't work, but IDK if it did before.. fuse isn't blown..

Called Dealer they start at 250.00 for trouble shooting. Got a feeling he's going to get stumped then tell me everything I already know is "wrong" with the truck🙄🤦🏻‍♂️

Oh ~17yo BFG AT are substantially louder than cooper AT3 XLTs of the same size, without the bed back axle weighs ~2300lb vs 2800 with the bed..

Get the spare tire mount replaced and I'm going to pick up a 2*2*3 block of concrete (1500lbs) to plant the back.. I'll look stupid but my back end won't dance around and my rear tires won't spin when I look at the throttle 😂
 

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2004LB7

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Have you seen Ike's thread about horn electrical?


Everything on the steering wheel that rotates except the horn goes through the clockspring. The horn has a slip ring for power then grounds through the shaft, bearings then through the bracket / support bolts into the body. But double check the relay first. Jump it out and check for power there for both the horn power and control power. If you have horn power and jump the relay out and no horn then check the horn itself and the connectors. If power and it works jumping the relay then concentrate on the steering wheel side. Test for 12v at the red wire behind the airbag. Check that the steering wheel has good ground too. That was Ikes issue
 
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malibu795

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I'll dive into that thread tomorrow, been Up since 0230 est, this morning finte cognitive function are in limited capacity right now 🫣🤣

I'll check the basics tomorrow