Your input on a 600hp DD

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
Yes it would be to keep PW down it will keep the fuel shot in the bowl instead of spraying the top of the piston as it travels farther away from the injector. the longer the PW the longer it sprays during the "powerstroke" the more it sprays the top of the piston. and you can run less timing also with helps keep the bottom end alive. less timing will make less cylinder pressure. so yes nozzels dialed back PW is a good idea. I personllay don't ever want to use NOS i only want fuel only power. as for the studs if you in that area with it torn apart you might as well its not that much money. and never hear of much problem with valve springs.
 

Slowmax

Build what others' won't
Aug 3, 2013
468
0
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United States
Yes it would be to keep PW down it will keep the fuel shot in the bowl instead of spraying the top of the piston as it travels farther away from the injector. the longer the PW the longer it sprays during the "powerstroke" the more it sprays the top of the piston. and you can run less timing also with helps keep the bottom end alive. less timing will make less cylinder pressure. so yes nozzels dialed back PW is a good idea. I personllay don't ever want to use NOS i only want fuel only power. as for the studs if you in that area with it torn apart you might as well its not that much money. and never hear of much problem with valve springs.


Thanks for the detailed feedback man! Would 30% overs do the trick or do I spend a little more and go for 60s? Truck will always be a single charger, unless I hit the lotto. :rofl:
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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NE Oregon
Thanks for the detailed feedback man! Would 30% overs do the trick or do I spend a little more and go for 60s? Truck will always be a single charger, unless I hit the lotto. :rofl:

you bet. and I would go with 40's or 60's thats my plan if i ever do injectors. pretty pleased with mysetup right now. but i know i should do nozzles just to make things a little easier on the pistons.
 

Slowmax

Build what others' won't
Aug 3, 2013
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you bet. and I would go with 40's or 60's thats my plan if i ever do injectors. pretty pleased with mysetup right now. but i know i should do nozzles just to make things a little easier on the pistons.


I am not aware of the price difference on 40s & 60s. Would you happen to know? Who would you go with to do the work on them Exergy or is there other companies who do just as good of work for a little less coin? Any idea how many street miles on your current setup?
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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36
NE Oregon
I have been running this tuning for almost 4 years and almost 2 with the turbo and plumbing, did the trans and tuning at 60K now at 97k. Exergy is the best. dynomite diesel is another good one also merchant but i can't remember off hand if they do much in the way of larger nozzles. IIRC 20% danville is a good one to go with they deal with Exergy and mark is a great tuner who knows how to make you engine live at those power levels. if you have good injectors now exergy can hone them out for less money then new ones and complete bodies.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
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Truck will stay single lbz cp3. I want to use that as my limiter. I appreciate any and all feedback. So thank you for your input man!!

A single stock CP3 will keep you limited to about 610whp, with a LBZ pump on an LBZ. Something like a Danville modded CP3 will get you to about 650whp. Using the CP3 as a fail safe, so to speak, isn't a bad idea, pushing the stock CP3 like that will affect the tuning some, especially in the upper rpms due to the pump running out. I've heard that running a modded CP3/dual fuelers will get you better throttle response too, so, personally I would keep a modded pump in my build plans, even though it is not absolutely and completely necessary. Why? Efficiency. The manufacturers build with only this in mind, and look at how well it works for them and how long stuff lasts, it would seem like we build up with efficiency being last on our minds, presumably.

Efficiency. Its the one thing I think gets overlooked the most when placing these goals on our trucks. We seem to look only at the parts and the power that they "can" unleash, but how often do we look at how EFFICIENT the parts are going to work in a given system. If the parts are working efficiently, then the power should be efficient too

So do you want to piece together a truck that "can" make 600whp when pushed to the limit, or do you want to put together/build a truck that "wants to" make 600whp every time your big toe hits the throttle. A stock long block can be manipulated to make 600whp several different ways, how you set it up and how you drive it will define the longevity of the motor and how well it performs more than anything, and when I say "set up" that includes how it's tuned, not just parts.
 

Janimal444

Member
Jun 25, 2012
354
0
16
Salem, NH
I went with 40 over nozzles and they made a huge difference, they really woke the truck up. Or the tuning woke the truck up I should say, but I felt that I was able to be "safely" tuned for bigger power with the bigger nozzles. On the same dyno I made 560hp on a "safe" tune with the stock injectors and 620 on a "safe" tune with the nozzles.
 

Janimal444

Member
Jun 25, 2012
354
0
16
Salem, NH
A single stock CP3 will keep you limited to about 610whp, with a LBZ pump on an LBZ. Something like a Danville modded CP3 will get you to about 650whp. Using the CP3 as a fail safe, so to speak, isn't a bad idea, pushing the stock CP3 like that will affect the tuning some, especially in the upper rpms due to the pump running out. I've heard that running a modded CP3/dual fuelers will get you better throttle response too, so, personally I would keep a modded pump in my build plans, even though it is not absolutely and completely necessary. Why? Efficiency. The manufacturers build with only this in mind, and look at how well it works for them and how long stuff lasts, it would seem like we build up with efficiency being last on our minds, presumably.

Efficiency. Its the one thing I think gets overlooked the most when placing these goals on our trucks. We seem to look only at the parts and the power that they "can" unleash, but how often do we look at how EFFICIENT the parts are going to work in a given system. If the parts are working efficiently, then the power should be efficient too

So do you want to piece together a truck that "can" make 600whp when pushed to the limit, or do you want to put together/build a truck that "wants to" make 600whp every time your big toe hits the throttle. A stock long block can be manipulated to make 600whp several different ways, how you set it up and how you drive it will define the longevity of the motor and how well it performs more than anything, and when I say "set up" that includes how it's tuned, not just parts.


Well said, I'd like to go with dual pumps just to take some of the stress off my stock CP3. But I don't want to get out of hand with the power levels (at least not yet).
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
0
0
I am not aware of the price difference on 40s & 60s. Would you happen to know? Who would you go with to do the work on them Exergy or is there other companies who do just as good of work for a little less coin? Any idea how many street miles on your current setup?

I think the price for 41-60 % is the same, the price bumps up again for 61-100%, iirc

If you always plan to run a single, don't plan to go for huge power levels, and tow and daily drive regularly, 40 overs are plenty big, they will push your power potential into the mid 700whp mark with ease. They are easy to tune and easy to tune to burn clean, 60's, not so much.
 

black07

New member
Oct 8, 2011
118
0
0
Pa
A single stock CP3 will keep you limited to about 610whp, with a LBZ pump on an LBZ. Something like a Danville modded CP3 will get you to about 650whp. Using the CP3 as a fail safe, so to speak, isn't a bad idea, pushing the stock CP3 like that will affect the tuning some, especially in the upper rpms due to the pump running out. I've heard that running a modded CP3/dual fuelers will get you better throttle response too, so, personally I would keep a modded pump in my build plans, even though it is not absolutely and completely necessary. Why? Efficiency. The manufacturers build with only this in mind, and look at how well it works for them and how long stuff lasts, it would seem like we build up with efficiency being last on our minds, presumably.

Efficiency. Its the one thing I think gets overlooked the most when placing these goals on our trucks. We seem to look only at the parts and the power that they "can" unleash, but how often do we look at how EFFICIENT the parts are going to work in a given system. If the parts are working efficiently, then the power should be efficient too

So do you want to piece together a truck that "can" make 600whp when pushed to the limit, or do you want to put together/build a truck that "wants to" make 600whp every time your big toe hits the throttle. A stock long block can be manipulated to make 600whp several different ways, how you set it up and how you drive it will define the longevity of the motor and how well it performs more than anything, and when I say "set up" that includes how it's tuned, not just parts.
A stock lbz pump will go a little further then 610, I've seen almost 700 on a couple trucks.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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0
Well said, I'd like to go with dual pumps just to take some of the stress off my stock CP3. But I don't want to get out of hand with the power levels (at least not yet).

:thumb: it's good to play it safe right, especially when were playing with $50,000 tonka trucks:D

As long as the tune is the same, it wouldn't matter if you had 8 cp3's plumbed direct to feed each injector, the injectors are only gonna deliver the amount of fuel the tune demands;) a bigger pump, or more of them, wont change your tune, and aren't a guarantee that your gonna pop a piston or bend a rod. Adding the potential for more fuel to be supplied to the injectors is not the same as adding bigger injectors, and does not impose the same risks
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
4,433
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A stock lbz pump will go a little further then 610, I've seen almost 700 on a couple trucks.
I have too.

A single stock CP3 will keep you limited to about 610whp,

Man I must have a good CP3 LOL

:roflmao: you guys....

610-630 is a "safe" claim....sure, a few guys have gotten more, but how consistently and for how long. I like to speak in terms of "all". Meaning all the time and all places, not just one time on a dyno, or one pass down the 1/4mi, but everyday all day and through the night, for everyone.
 

OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
3,964
8
38
36
Goodyear, AZ
I have too.



:roflmao: you guys....

610-630 is a "safe" claim....sure, a few guys have gotten more, but how consistently and for how long. I like to speak in terms of "all". Meaning all the time and all places, not just one time on a dyno, or one pass down the 1/4mi, but everyday all day and through the night, for everyone.

pretty sure Mark at Danville proved that wrong over and over again :roflmao: :hug:
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
0
36
NE Oregon
LOL I cant wait till I bend my rods, have no reason to not build it then. a build bottom end is sure alot cheaper then payments on a new one.
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
0
36
NE Oregon
tried to figure that out myself and didn't get very far, all they told me was they would add 75 to whatever my setup was. which i don't really buy.