Been prepping the boat while waiting to get engines on the dyno. Lot of small projects to keep me busy.
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Twins with Twins, Anyone?
- Thread starter kidturbo
- Start date
Wrapping up the seawater systems today, literally.
My buddy Steve at Tubular Techniques has the coolest shop full of bending tools. So I had him roll me a piece of 1-1/2" 316L SS around a spare Dmax rear cover to make up cooler connector lines. Then to plumb the charge cooler ports, I just cut off sections to fit.
Things getting really crowded on the back half.
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My buddy Steve at Tubular Techniques has the coolest shop full of bending tools. So I had him roll me a piece of 1-1/2" 316L SS around a spare Dmax rear cover to make up cooler connector lines. Then to plumb the charge cooler ports, I just cut off sections to fit.
Things getting really crowded on the back half.
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On the front end plumbing is bit cleaner cut. Slight 45 bend into a 90 hose connects pump to oil cooler. After dyno time I'm gonna slip a piece of 1-1/2" SS over this tube, weld up the ends and make a simple flow-thru fuel cooler on the returns.
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Looking for some input on whether to drill and tap this block ear for a second bolt??
On the other side there is at least 4 bolts attaching block to the front plate. But that's not the heavily loaded side. The rear engine plate should be taking 50% of the overall load. So little different from normal truck setup.
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On the other side there is at least 4 bolts attaching block to the front plate. But that's not the heavily loaded side. The rear engine plate should be taking 50% of the overall load. So little different from normal truck setup.
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Looks awesome. You did a great job. I wouldn't worry about putting in the other bolt. I would change the one that is in there to a 10.9 though.
All that absolutely beautiful work, and you use regular old worm clamps? Cmon man...
Im j/k....
Im j/k....
I have the 10.9 bolts for those two mount holes. Are in the other engines but misplaced the ones for this engine. But nice catch..
For the clamps, those are high $$ double wrap stainless so not to cut into the hose. The screw are zinc coated however. On the 1-1/2 I'll probably switch those to T-bolts since it could see spikes up to 60-70psi on seawater side. Just can't order them till I know exactly what size I need for each location. So these work for mock up.
As to running the seawater though the engine, these will spend their entire life running in saltwater. That would be a short life since heads are aluminum. Everything has to be 316L, bronze, cupronickle, hard anodized, or coated alum. Even that inlet piece for charge coolers gets a special coating on inside to extend the service life. Reason for all the extra SS tubing.
For the clamps, those are high $$ double wrap stainless so not to cut into the hose. The screw are zinc coated however. On the 1-1/2 I'll probably switch those to T-bolts since it could see spikes up to 60-70psi on seawater side. Just can't order them till I know exactly what size I need for each location. So these work for mock up.
As to running the seawater though the engine, these will spend their entire life running in saltwater. That would be a short life since heads are aluminum. Everything has to be 316L, bronze, cupronickle, hard anodized, or coated alum. Even that inlet piece for charge coolers gets a special coating on inside to extend the service life. Reason for all the extra SS tubing.
Sorry misread that.. Thought you said thru the engine.killer job,,now change out those clamps for 100% stainless ones.
?? why not run the water line under the engine??
There is actually 2 separate sewater lines off the sewater pump. 1" and a 1-1/2" circuit. One to front, other to the back. Plus 2 more lines from electric circ pump tucked in there.
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Sure glad I took pictures of this plumbing mess before sending them out to have gear ratio changed. Luckily I had some pics saved from 2yrs ago, see last.
These cases were originally designed with internal oiling passages, but previous owner experienced some bearing failures and decided to upgrade em.. An aircraft mechanic if ya couldn't tell. But i believe his true issues was spinning 5k rpm load rated bearings 10k rpm with turbines making 1700hp... Took me about 30 seconds on Google to check bearing specs and,, solved it..
So I get these back from drive shop with all the fittings and lines in a bag. Glad that he leak tested em with dye, but guess he forgot to take a picture before diving into em. LoL
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These cases were originally designed with internal oiling passages, but previous owner experienced some bearing failures and decided to upgrade em.. An aircraft mechanic if ya couldn't tell. But i believe his true issues was spinning 5k rpm load rated bearings 10k rpm with turbines making 1700hp... Took me about 30 seconds on Google to check bearing specs and,, solved it..
So I get these back from drive shop with all the fittings and lines in a bag. Glad that he leak tested em with dye, but guess he forgot to take a picture before diving into em. LoL
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Wrapping up a few remaining jobs before heading to Mark's next Monday. Things are getting really tight on both ends now.
What ya all think of my turbo cooling routing around thermostats?
Because of the limited flow volume with these electric pumps, I decided to push everything thru the engine rather than bypassing some coolant to turbos. This way when thermostats are closed, there is still a 8AN worth of coolant circulation thru the block. About same as the oem waterpump bypass tube. Once opened there should still be decent flow to both turbos. I hope..
What ya all think of my turbo cooling routing around thermostats?
Because of the limited flow volume with these electric pumps, I decided to push everything thru the engine rather than bypassing some coolant to turbos. This way when thermostats are closed, there is still a 8AN worth of coolant circulation thru the block. About same as the oem waterpump bypass tube. Once opened there should still be decent flow to both turbos. I hope..
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Yeah the heat exchangers are pretty big even for hp marine standards. 24" x 6" dia. Only question now is reservoir capacity needed. That's something I hope we can sort out on dyno.
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where are the turbos pulling coolant from? those two -8an lines? if so, thats the same way stock is ran accept they have a thermostat in the upper steel rad hose. My truck is currently ran the same way as yours since i went with a van thermostat housing.
did you put a freeze plug in the coolant bypass under the first thermostat? ive been considering doing that since i now have the heater core running as a bypass.
did you put a freeze plug in the coolant bypass under the first thermostat? ive been considering doing that since i now have the heater core running as a bypass.
Yeah i basically tried to follow the stock layout. But to date still can't tell ya which direction factory fluid flowed..
Does it flow from bypass tube thru turbo to that upper rad hose with thermostat, or does it flow out of that inline thermostat and get sucked back to waterpump??
We used a freeze plug for a Saab I believe. Would have just welded off that bypass port but bridge was already powder coated..
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Does it flow from bypass tube thru turbo to that upper rad hose with thermostat, or does it flow out of that inline thermostat and get sucked back to waterpump??
We used a freeze plug for a Saab I believe. Would have just welded off that bypass port but bridge was already powder coated..
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Meziere told me to not dead head those pumps to factory thermostat. Causes heat on motor and possible premature failure. The one factory thermostat has couple air bleads built in, but not enough to matter. My original plan was feed turbos off rear engine inlets, but that would have siphoned 2x6AN worth of flow off block flow total.
With this setup every drop goes through the engine first. And should be about 35gpm true flow rate, on a 55gpm rated pump. That's 1" dia orifice regulated volume to each bank.
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