Thank You :hug:
Any time,
Now don't quote me on the numbers, as long as I remember correctly, that is what he said.
Thank You :hug:
So much for my future build..... that's insanely $$$$.....why so much more? Just because they can?
$4400 dollars would be worth it to me if it meant I didn't break a piston in my expensive motor.
Wait until you hear the price for the titanium rods to match it!
Supply, demand, and the economy of scale. Unless they become OEM replacement parts, they will stay expensive. If a second company releases them, then the price will come down a bit as well.
i gots a mill...
I was waiting for pink slippers to start selling some. But i'll wait until ben tries a set first ...
What grade steel are these made of? I have a very good friend that has a 23,000 sq ft machine shop with every piece of equipment imaginable. He might be interested in a business venture of this sort if he could sell them cheaper and still have a good profit margin.
So much for my future build..... that's insanely $$$$.....why so much more? Just because they can?
Because its for a Duramax and we keep lining up to buy the stuff no matter how ridiculous the price.
X2! SO many over rated expensive parts out there for our trucks. People think if it says billet, it must be the best, or what they need.:roflmao:
X2! SO many over rated expensive parts out there for our trucks. People think if it says billet, it must be the best, or what they need.:roflmao:
hmmmmm.....theres more engineering to the process then id have ever imagined......gues its not as simple as just milling a piston out of steel instead of aluminumHere's my useless guess how I'd do it, given the resources:
Start with 17-4PH, which a form of hardening stainless that is used for high temp strength. This will allow you to use fairly thin cross-sections since it's REALLY strong when heat treated. Like 160k PSI kind of strong.
Oddly enough, start out with Sheet stock not bar stock. Put the grain direction perpendicular to pin. This will allow it to flex across the pin without forming cracks.
Square blocks up, hold to ±0.001 for repeatibility on other ops. You will leave .005" on critical surfaces at this point. Punch wrist pin hole in one shot, against the grain. Hold tolerance on location tight because this is your reference. Bore final dia .010 under.
Machine bowl, and valve reliefs. Put two .2505" holes in far corners for indexing.
Flip. Machine pocket, drill oiling holes. Put two .2505 holes in corners.
Flip. Cut piston OD, ring side. Key-cutter the ring grooves. Only go down just past the rings.
Flip. Cut the other side for the skirt, leave tabs.
Machine tabs off, stress relieve. Harden. Finish machine using carbide or grinding ops. Go minus .0020".
Hard chrome. Grind ring, pin bores, centerless or jig grind OD.
What you end up with is a chrome plated high strength steel piston that is crack resistant and has very high strength at 500°F, and rejects heat. Perhaps lighter than aluminum.
But I'd be broke way before then, and I'm not a piston engineer.
No,i think it's cool, but it took you a mile to do it...:rofl:
With the common Mahle piston bowl configuration HP is lost with the modified spray angle found in the Bosch motorsports nozzels vers the stock tip spray angles in the D-max and HP is gained in the common rail Cummins when using the MS nozzels.As for the spraying the walls, the other big factor is the spray angle of the injectors. From what I have read (I know, VERY dangerous), the stock injectors are very flat. They were tuned for emissions and spraying very short shots close to TDC.
Typically you want a narrower spray angle so that the fuel hits the bowl and then rebounds back up to get the most uniform distribution. Thus the interaction between spray angle and piston bowl design. It's also implied that the injection duration is key to these two parameters.
hmmmmm.....theres more engineering to the process then id have ever imagined......gues its not as simple as just milling a piston out of steel instead of aluminum