LMM: SoCal Motor on the way!

[S Phinney]

So you were able to get the studs and machine work for less than 1100 bucks?


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[WolfLMM]

The 625 are 1600. Even at dealer cost I was looking at 1400.

 

[skintback]

ARP's prices have gone up a good bit over the last year or two

Looks like it's going to be a nice build for you :thumb:

 

[DMAXchris]

My wife wrote out the check, she said "I can't believe a piston costs this much":roflmao:

:rofl:
Its gonna be a runner Waid!

 

[WVRigrat05]

My wife wrote out the check, she said "I can't believe a piston costs this much":roflmao:

At least you were smart enough to not go into detail about the failure and build.

Mine knows what's involved with a cracked piston. No way in hell im getting by with a so cal motor, I'm stuck doing it myself, lol.

 

[WolfLMM]

Upgraded to billet Bryant crank, girdle, and 200% injectors.

Anyone running 200s on the street any? Just wondering how much haze they will have? Lbz nozzles BTW.

 

[JoshH]

So you were able to get the studs and machine work for less than 1100 bucks?


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Where are you getting the Custom Age 625+ ARP studs for $1100?

 

[Chevy1925]

Upgraded to billet Bryant crank, girdle, and 200% injectors.

Anyone running 200s on the street any? Just wondering how much haze they will have? Lbz nozzles BTW.

i know mark was/is. i almost did but chickened out

 

[coker6365]

Upgraded to billet Bryant crank, girdle, and 200% injectors.

Anyone running 200s on the street any? Just wondering how much haze they will have? Lbz nozzles BTW.

I will be running 200% on the street soon, so let me know what you think about them if you beat me to the punch. LOL. Your build is pretty much identical to mine. I know with the 100% and finger oval bowls, I had a slight haze all the time. Idle, highway speeds, etc. Not bad and it wasn't very noticeable during the day but at night you could see it in the headlights. I am sure the 200's will be a tad worse but still tolerable.

 

[Harbin_22]

I run 200% on the street. They are smokey if you aren't paying attention to how you are driving.

 

[Harbin_22]

I will be running 200% on the street soon, so let me know what you think about them if you beat me to the punch. LOL. Your build is pretty much identical to mine. I know with the 100% and finger oval bowls, I had a slight haze all the time. Idle, highway speeds, etc. Not bad and it wasn't very noticeable during the day but at night you could see it in the headlights. I am sure the 200's will be a tad worse but still tolerable.

It doesn't matter what size injector I've had, 60's, 100's, 120's and now 200's, I've had the same experience with these pistons.

 

[coker6365]

It doesn't matter what size injector I've had, 60's, 100's, 120's and now 200's, I've had the same experience with these pistons.

Exactly, that seems to be the general consensus. It's not bad enough to worry about IMO. I will take a little haze and keep my durability and strength with the oval bowl cast pistons any day!

 

[S Phinney]

I run 200 overs in my lb7. No real haze problems. Tuning plays a huge role in the smoke levels as well as camshaft overlap.


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[IOWA LLY]

I run 200 overs in my lb7. No real haze problems. Tuning plays a huge role in the smoke levels as well as camshaft overlap.


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Speaking of cam shafts, is there anything available that's better then the stock cam for running clean, and for low end response/power?

Everything I've ever been around, or ran has been oriented for power, and or higher rpm operation.


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[S Phinney]

As you go bigger minimizing overlap is the important part for turbo response. Most cams are on a 109 to 110 Lsa and have a 4 degree advance built in as well. When you go bigger you need to spread that out some to not bleed off too much cylinder pressure at low rpm. Going to 113 to 114 Lsa will help that issue.


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[IOWA LLY]

Gotcha. Appreciate that. But I was meaning is there a readily available cam being made that incorporates those types of ideas, and has proven to say increase low end response, and low end cleanliness.


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[Dave c]

Speaking of cam shafts, is there anything available that's better then the stock cam for running clean, and for low end response/power?

Everything I've ever been around, or ran has been oriented for power, and or higher rpm operation.


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There sure is, correct valve timing plays a huge role in spool up and smoke control, and over all power.

 

[Dave c]

As you go bigger minimizing overlap is the important part for turbo response. Most cams are on a 109 to 110 Lsa and have a 4 degree advance built in as well. When you go bigger you need to spread that out some to not bleed off too much cylinder pressure at low rpm. Going to 113 to 114 Lsa will help that issue.


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Your on the right track, that's part of it.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

As you go bigger minimizing overlap is the important part for turbo response. Most cams are on a 109 to 110 Lsa and have a 4 degree advance built in as well. When you go bigger you need to spread that out some to not bleed off too much cylinder pressure at low rpm. Going to 113 to 114 Lsa will help that issue.


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I've been reading up on this lately for my LS build. I'm going with a 115 lsa to help keep the boost from the supercharger from leaking out before it makes power. It seems that power where you want it in the rpm range is all about the cam I'm learning...

 

[Dave c]

Be careful, there is a point too much lsa for the application will cause big spool issues and power loss. Best to deal with a reputable cam designer.