SIKDMAX LMM painfully slow Install/Build Thread

[duratothemax]

Everything is ready but to prime the engine and fill with coolant. Im going now to get distilled water to use first on recommendation from Simon in case of leaks.

I got Guys primer. Its the Lisle tool I beleive. Hand pump with a variety of fittings. It says it screws into the block under the #1 cylinder. Anyone have a picture of where this would be on the block?

Ive got a bolt head painted yellow... wondering if that was a sign from Guy

How many quarts should I pump in? The tool manual says 1-2 quarts but its for all gas vehicles and then has dmax at the end.... so since we have more oil capacity should i do like 3-4 quarts or is 1-2 enough to fill up the passages?

Gonna be tonight Ben as long as I can figure out where the primer goes!

no they are all painted yellow. You can pump in as much as you want; I suppose you could even fill the whole crankcase with it depending how much pressure it puts out. I doubt it will take more than 2 quarts to "properly" prime everything. Like I said, keep in mind I didnt pre-lube either of my engines, so I think you'll be fine with whatever you do.

 

[duratothemax]

Dont think stock will work, dont want my mcrat race tune in with crazy pw etc with the dual fuelers and 60% overs lol.

why wouldnt it work...the ECM will compensate and adjust things to adhere to the desired idle speed table. Its not like its going to run away and zing to redline because of the bigger injectors and stock PW.

I have no problem with my big injectors running it on a stock tune....

Put a stock tune in, start it and see what happens. Thats the only way you're gonna find out what you need to adjust. It will be fine.

ben

 

[ripmf666]

Everything is ready but to prime the engine and fill with coolant. Im going now to get distilled water to use first on recommendation from Simon in case of leaks.

I got Guys primer. Its the Lisle tool I beleive. Hand pump with a variety of fittings. It says it screws into the block under the #1 cylinder. Anyone have a picture of where this would be on the block?

Ive got a bolt head painted yellow... wondering if that was a sign from Guy

How many quarts should I pump in? The tool manual says 1-2 quarts but its for all gas vehicles and then has dmax at the end.... so since we have more oil capacity should i do like 3-4 quarts or is 1-2 enough to fill up the passages?

Gonna be tonight Ben as long as I can figure out where the primer goes!

Matt I posted a pic of this atleast 7 time you remove the oil sening unit and prime it with almost 3 qts have the line ontop if the turbo loose and when it comes out there tighten and then pump a few more in and you good to go also make sure you filled the filter first. The search area works guys lol:hug:

 

[MMLMM]

Holy shit...How long does it take to flash in a stock tune??? :rofl:

Hope you start it today Matt. Or did you get it started at 1AM and been gone since lol

 

[SIKDMAX]

Built a stock tune with no DPF VVT EGR etc and put it in.

Added a gallon of distilled water.... leak.

Lower rad house where it attaches to the rad. The hard plastic fitting looks as if its seated all the way and the clip is in place where it should go, still leaking. Is there some sort of rubber seal or gasket or anythign that goes inside there to seal it off?

Stuck... dammit. I want to drive to work today

 

[paint94979]

Built a stock tune with no DPF VVT EGR etc and put it in.

Added a gallon of distilled water.... leak.

Lower rad house where it attaches to the rad. The hard plastic fitting looks as if its seated all the way and the clip is in place where it should go, still leaking. Is there some sort of rubber seal or gasket or anythign that goes inside there to seal it off?

Stuck... dammit. I want to drive to work today

you are probably going to find a few leaks... don't rush it Matt. it starts? good... you have all weekend to iron everything out and triple check everything

 

[SIKDMAX]

Havent started yet. Got a leak as I was filling coolant. Just trying to figure out whats up with this and then Ill start it. Wanted to drive it to work in a half hour

 

[Trippin]

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The yellow painted bolt is a water jacket!

Use the holes circled in red.

Leave the pressure sensor in place, turn the key on and start pumping the primer. Have someone watch the dash and let you know when they see oil pressure on the gauge. Disable the fuel injectors and crank the motor a few revs while pumping the primer. This way you exposed all the oil holes in the crank to oil under pressure.

 

[Fat_Robi]

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The yellow painted bolt is a water jacket!

You will be pumping for a long time to get it to come out of the turbo oil line if you use that one...

 

[SIKDMAX]

LOL... this is why I wait for people who KNOW what they are saying before I do things

Havent primed it yet. Thanks Guy.

Trying to figure out this coolant leak at the lower rad hose, anyone know whats up there or have a diagram of how it goes or something? I see no reason it should be leaking, but there is a little play back and forth with the clip in place, which leads me to beleive there is a thick neoprene washer or gasket type or something that goes in there to take up the slack.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Thats why i use water Not sure on your truck Matt but mine is simply a clamp on,The rad has a bevel lip....maybe try a different clamp? Sorry dont know about a seal



Maybe you damaged the hose somehow?

 

[sweetdiesel]

WAIT![/B]
STOP![/B]

The yellow painted bolt is a water jacket!

Use the holes circled in red.

Leave the pressure sensor in place, turn the key on and start pumping the primer. Have someone watch the dash and let you know when they see oil pressure on the gauge. Disable the fuel injectors and crank the motor a few revs while pumping the primer. This way you exposed all the oil holes in the crank to oil under pressure.

luv the frost plugs!

 

[SIKDMAX]

On LMM its a hard plastic molded piece off the rad and another hard plastic piece on the hose that slips over it and then you insert a metal retaining clip, similar to the cold side CAC boot or the trans cooler clips to lock it in place.

Its locked in place but still moves back and forth a bit and leaks.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Sorry Matt I dunno?

Maybe call Robert

 

[MMLMM]

On LMM its a hard plastic molded piece off the rad and another hard plastic piece on the hose that slips over it and then you insert a metal retaining clip, similar to the cold side CAC boot or the trans cooler clips to lock it in place.

Its locked in place but still moves back and forth a bit and leaks.

is there supposed to be an o-ring in there???

 

[duratothemax]

WAIT![/B]
STOP![/B]

The yellow painted bolt is a water jacket!

Use the holes circled in red.

Leave the pressure sensor in place, turn the key on and start pumping the primer. Have someone watch the dash and let you know when they see oil pressure on the gauge. Disable the fuel injectors and crank the motor a few revs while pumping the primer. This way you exposed all the oil holes in the crank to oil under pressure.

Guy not to butt in, but the cluster will not show oil pressure when cranking. The oil pressure signal gets to the cluster via the low speed GMLAN bus, not a dedicated wire. When cranking, almost every module in the truck (including the IPC) is told to 'shut up' and go to sleep mode (to reserve maximum electrical power for starting the engine)...then, only when the engine actually starts, everything wakes up again and the IPC receives the initial ECT, oil pressure, fuel level, and ign voltage signal stream over the GMLAN bus...

HOWEVER If he has a tech 2 and CANdi module, Im 95% sure the ECM will still broadcast a live data stream of everything (including oil pressure) while cranking, even though the IPC is powered down...

ben

 

[SIKDMAX]

is there supposed to be an o-ring in there???

Im thinking so... Im wondernig if anyone that has TIS access or anyone else at a GM place can pull a parts diagram and see if on LMM there is any seal or oring or anything between the hard plastic outlet on the pass/lower rad to the hard plastic connector on the end of the coolant line. Ill get pics at lunch.

 

[duratothemax]

on the LBZ thats in my truck now, one of the oil gallery plugs was painted yellow as well. Maybe something GM goofed up, it being a test engine?

Sorry for misleading you on that matt, its one of those things where if I was right there id catch it...but off memory I screw it up. :

 

[SIKDMAX]

No worries Ben. Just double checkin things

Gotta figure this darn leak, going home in a bit at lunch to try and see whats up. Maybe to dealer to pull up a diagram. I bet they will just tell me it comes with the radiator house which is $1800 LOL

 

[duratothemax]

On LMM its a hard plastic molded piece off the rad and another hard plastic piece on the hose that slips over it and then you insert a metal retaining clip, similar to the cold side CAC boot or the trans cooler clips to lock it in place.

Its locked in place but still moves back and forth a bit and leaks.

there is no o-ring. Just the circlip. I dont think you have it seated properly...pull the clip off, pull the hose off, reseat the hose ALL the way snug (it should not wiggle, if it wiggles its not all the way seated) and put the circlip back in.