Nitrous for dummies?
- Thread starter JoshH
- Start date
It does unless you flip the arm switch off. If you flip the arm switch off, it kills the nitrous as soon as it is off, but unless I'm missing something, I don't see any reason to be concerned about the nitrous stopping as you lift.
I hate this thread I want some blue juice now
What kit is the best bank for the buck to get like 200hp I've not really looked at them alot and I dont feel like making one...any suggestions...i like the one above but might want a little more juice
What kit is the best bank for the buck to get like 200hp I've not really looked at them alot and I dont feel like making one...any suggestions...i like the one above but might want a little more juice
Well, I guess it depends on how much you are spraying also, and where the jet is. I know some run it before the intercooler.
The reason I want the switch manual is that if something happens off the line like wheelhop, I don't want the nitrous kicking in and making it worse or breaking something.
All I know is there is a truck running mid 10s and over 1000 HP with a very similar setup (as far as how the nitrous is installed/wired). The only difference is his is a dual stage with two pressure switches, one set at 20 PSI and the other set at 40 PSI, and he hasn't had any problems with it for over 2 years. He was running a single stage kit for several years before that. I think that's good enough for me. I set this kit at 25 PSI so the truck could get a little further out of the hole before it started to spray, but I'm thinking of backing it down to 20 because you can feel the truck launch and then try to break the tires loose when the nitrous hits. I think the initial tire shock of the launch coupled with the nitrous might make it work better, but that's just a theory right now.
As long as you have a wide open throttle switch in the system as a saftey you will be fine, psi switches sometimes can fail and not work on target, i like the digiset timers, and seems to work for me.
WOT switches are a PITA and NFG. so STFU, you SOB. J/K, IMO:
On digital cars/trucks, WOT switches, unless there is an electronic version for your specific model, I'll look for better alternatives. Since there is no carb, most retail kit switches aren't going to mount reliably.
Plus, it's too easy to accidently hit WOT when trying to build heat in a big charger in cold air during staging.
If you are an EFILive user, I'd dink with the DSP functions to use those if you really want a WOT switch.
On digital cars/trucks, WOT switches, unless there is an electronic version for your specific model, I'll look for better alternatives. Since there is no carb, most retail kit switches aren't going to mount reliably.
Plus, it's too easy to accidently hit WOT when trying to build heat in a big charger in cold air during staging.
If you are an EFILive user, I'd dink with the DSP functions to use those if you really want a WOT switch.
Does this come with a purge too? I really don't know much about nitrous but understand its a good idea to purge it to get a nice clean shot in.
ok. no one has commented on this thread for a little while. instead of starting a new one thread, im just gonna try to start this one back up.
after i get my rail pressure situation under control, i would like to add a small shot of nitrous. i dont need some crazy progressive kit or anything. when i bought the truck, it had a kit NOS (the company) kit on it. the activation was just an arm/purge and a button you hold to hit the N20. i never ran the kit due to the fact that the engine and trans were all stock at that point in time.
that kit was stolen from me by some low life. but i would like to get another kit just like it. something simple.
my question is this... when that button is depressed, does it have to be held down all the way down the track? or is it just some kind of one hit wonder button that you just tap and let go?
sorry for the iggnorance on the subject. i have never messed with nitrous or studied the subject. i have only read through this thread.
thanks for the help.
after i get my rail pressure situation under control, i would like to add a small shot of nitrous. i dont need some crazy progressive kit or anything. when i bought the truck, it had a kit NOS (the company) kit on it. the activation was just an arm/purge and a button you hold to hit the N20. i never ran the kit due to the fact that the engine and trans were all stock at that point in time.
that kit was stolen from me by some low life.
but i would like to get another kit just like it. something simple. my question is this... when that button is depressed, does it have to be held down all the way down the track? or is it just some kind of one hit wonder button that you just tap and let go?
sorry for the iggnorance on the subject. i have never messed with nitrous or studied the subject. i have only read through this thread.
thanks for the help.
What you have there is an old school manual switch, the way I like to spray.
When the system is armed and you push the button it will begin to spray, when you let off the button it will stop spraying.
When the system is armed and you push the button it will begin to spray, when you let off the button it will stop spraying.
gotchya. thats what i figured. but i wasnt 100% positive. ive looked (breifly) for another kit like that. everything i find has the TPS. were can i get the manual switch? or do i just have to build it myself?
Just buy the kit with the TPS and wire in whatever switch you want. The TPS microswitch is just that same button switch on an arm behind the pedal.
I'd question using that big of a shot a lot on a stocker but once and a while at the track - wow
I had wondered about when the "auto" kits kicked out
Not sure what Dmitri did different on his low 10's and 9.9x but on some of his runs I seen in person it looked like the shot out of the hole shocked the tires, ect too much and he lost time there, JMO.
Happy button :spit:
I'll be beginning my nitrous experiment soon. Any body have any idea what size jet and noid come with the NOS diesel dry shot kit?
same idea
I'm moving to more of a sand drags,mud drags, 1/4 mile all around setup this year, the local amateur pull are lame with rules constantly changing. My idea is to install an Arson II kit to help bump the fuel just a little, and run a nitrous setup similar to what Josh was describing in this thread, I think it will be the ticket to running low 12's consistently. I'm also hoping it will give it the extra kick in the ass to get it down the track in the mud/sand drags we have up this way, I'm hoping to run 33x12.5 boggers this year for those events. There are also a couple pulls that I will run that have very loose rules in which I'd like to spray at them as well. Any added tips/tricks/pointers would be greatly appreciated. BTW my sig is fairly accurate.
I'm moving to more of a sand drags,mud drags, 1/4 mile all around setup this year, the local amateur pull are lame with rules constantly changing. My idea is to install an Arson II kit to help bump the fuel just a little, and run a nitrous setup similar to what Josh was describing in this thread, I think it will be the ticket to running low 12's consistently. I'm also hoping it will give it the extra kick in the ass to get it down the track in the mud/sand drags we have up this way, I'm hoping to run 33x12.5 boggers this year for those events. There are also a couple pulls that I will run that have very loose rules in which I'd like to spray at them as well. Any added tips/tricks/pointers would be greatly appreciated. BTW my sig is fairly accurate.
Sand Drags in a 4wd Dirtymax sounds like a blast :thumb: the nitrous would be a big help as long as you could hook up are you allowed to run cut boggers? how long is the track 1/16 mile?
why not? I would just deal with tuning but on the 2011 i cant they cant get anymore fuel to the moter than I have now and its not much. ANd no one can crack it so. I figured nx will help then i found wet kits for gas that could be changed over and that would be a way to get more power but. the timing is a problem when you add fuel that way..but I am all new at this nx. I built a LBZ that ran 750rwh with no drugs. want to get to 800+ with this one and I will use drugs to get there safely.