LB7: My LB7 just committed suicide

AKlowriderZ71

New member
May 14, 2012
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Wyoming
I just have to remove the accessory drives & tensioner/idlers, remove the converter bolts, bell-housing bolts, and motor mount bolts. Oil cooler lines & any other misc crap down there that I haven't seen yet. Starter won't come out past my 4" exhaust, so that will wait until I lift the motor a bit.
 

danzick

playing with fire
Feb 20, 2014
576
16
18
Livingston, MT
Might consider calling Tim at diesel xtreme in billings. He's a cocky Cummins asshole, but he can be good for finding parts.
 

DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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Jan 17, 2010
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idaho
shop.dieselmafiaperformance.com
To pull the motor just pull ac pump power steering pump, motor mounts bolts, tq converter bolts, bell housing bolts, undue fuel lines and bale connectors and power for glow plug module and done then strip it down out of the bay. Also assuming you already have the core support out
 

AKlowriderZ71

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May 14, 2012
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I won't be cracking open the A/C system on this job. Leaving in the core support & condenser, just going to flop the compressor over to the side.

All I have left is the bracket for the trans cooler pipes, the battery ground on the left side, the lower harness across the front of the oil pan, converter bolts, and bell-housing bolts. Stand the hood up in "service mode" and pull it.

Do any of our vendors offer a kit to replace all of the small rubber fuel lines under the hood? Mine aren't too pretty.
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
2,636
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NE Oregon
How/what do I check on this turbo to make sure it's okay?

see if it still spins freely and doesn't make contact with the housing, the big thing is end play, (in and out on the shaft) they will have some side play but end play is what kills them or indicates that they are nearing the end.
 

AKlowriderZ71

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May 14, 2012
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see if it still spins freely and doesn't make contact with the housing, the big thing is end play, (in and out on the shaft) they will have some side play but end play is what kills them or indicates that they are nearing the end.

Sounds simple enough, thanks!
 

AKlowriderZ71

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May 14, 2012
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Well, I found out the hard way that the engine won't come out the top if you leave the balancer on, and the turbo/up-pipes/down-pipe installed. Too long to fit between the firewall & core support. Tried to fight it out, but it just wasn't happening. So I ended up removing the core support. :eek:
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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Pull the upper core support bar and flip the A/C condenser over to the side. The engine WILL come out without removing those parts.
 

AKlowriderZ71

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May 14, 2012
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My core support is one piece welded. Maybe the vans or newer trucks have a removable top bar, but mine does not. It is already removed, and I flipped the condenser & compressor over & out of the way without disconnecting any lines. The engine is out. I did all of this yesterday.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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My core support is one piece welded. Maybe the vans or newer trucks have a removable top bar, but mine does not. It is already removed, and I flipped the condenser & compressor over & out of the way without disconnecting any lines. The engine is out. I did all of this yesterday.

It's not unless it's been welded after it left the factory. I've worked on a lot of these trucks. There are 3 bolts that go in from the bottom behind the headlights on each side. Once you pull those, the bar across the top comes right off.
 

sickdiesel

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Apr 22, 2010
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Like Josh said. The engine will come out with turbo and balancer left on. done it many times. just takes the right angle of the dangle to make it slip right out :)
 

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
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My core support is one piece welded. .

No its not.

Maybe the vans or newer trucks have a removable top bar, but mine does not.

yes it does. You probably just didnt see the three (somewhat hidden) 10mm bolts that hold it onto the lower part of the core support. :) ;)


bumper, turbo, core support, balancer...none of that needs to come off to get the engine out. I have swapped countless duramax's in all years of trucks and never had to remove the core support, bumper, balancer, or turbo. Just the top "tie bar" that goes across the core support.
 

AKlowriderZ71

New member
May 14, 2012
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Wyoming
It's not unless it's been welded after it left the factory. I've worked on a lot of these trucks. There are 3 bolts that go in from the bottom behind the headlights on each side. Once you pull those, the bar across the top comes right off.

Well, I'll be damned.... I totally overlooked those. Why didn't anybody tell me that yesterday?!? LMAO!!!

 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,736
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Texas!!!
Hey, at least you got it out, and now you'll know if you ever have to do it again.