What about the front end? Are the stock tie rods beefier than the 01 - 10's?Thanks for the input Dave. Is the 3388 anymore "streetable" or does it just not rev as high as the 6480 which would in turn make power at a lower RPM?
Rudy, daily driver in MN cold starts as low as -30 and driven like a race car most of the time. Id say buy the LML, leave it close to stock until the warranty goes then swap to a CP3 and build the trans when it needs it, you will save yourself a lot of headaches and money if you can stop there.
I've put about 4000Km on my built motor LML and its been great. I've seen 3 LML's go through the shop that built my motor with cracked pistons. All running mild tuning and simple bolt ons. My motor never broke but I decided to build it when I was doing my head gaskets before it broke. When we pulled my motor apart we found odd main bearing wear and the mains were distorted pretty bad. I'm told it took a lot of machine work to fix my mains and I almost needed to abandon my block. I had to go to HX main bearings to get proper bearing crush with the mains being honed as much as it took.
My build list
-Carillo rods
-Cut and coated LB7 piston. Based on budget
-Empire stage 1 AF cam
-ARP main and head studs
-Hamilton valve springs
-Heads ported to gasket opening on exhaust side
-Grade C head gaskets
-Merchant push rods
-Welded LBZ water pump
I'm running stock sticks with a 475 compound kit over the stock charger. I also did a CP3 conversion with the fleece 750 pump.
I've been seeing lots of threads about welded water pumps breaking the welds and spinning the impeller. I have a welded pump and haven't any problems (I'm pretty much stock), but search around the forums.....most are using Danville or DHD pinned pumps nowdays.Sounds like a good thing you had it pulled apart when you did, wish I would have done the same when mine was apart for head gaskets about 4K miles ago - probably would have saved some money.
I talked to my shop yesterday and gave them the go ahead to start ordering parts
Fingers Pistons - coated
Carrillo rods
Stage 1 cam
Billet flex plate
Keyed crank
Spring kit and push rods
Arp mains and head studs
Welded water pump
Oil pump and cooler
Probably some other stuff...
Crank was checked and keyed already, sounds like the block is on its way to get scanned and honed today then they will order Pistons after they hear back from the machine shop on bore size. Hopefully I'll have a running truck in about 3 weeks.
Why not do a new crank and af cam? When I build mine I will be going that route.
I've been seeing lots of threads about welded water pumps breaking the welds and spinning the impeller. I have a welded pump and haven't any problems (I'm pretty much stock), but search around the forums.....most are using Danville or DHD pinned pumps nowdays.
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Have only "heard" of one new crank breaking while using af cam its whole life.
I've heard of a few breaking with af cam n when an old crank was used. I'm going with a new lml crank, keyed, n af cam.
Hope this one holds up for ya brandon. Really sucks to see you spend the money on headgaskets n a new setup then turn around and have to build the bottom end. Atleast it will be stronger than ever this time :thumb:
How's the build coming along?
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Pistons were delivered last Monday to the shop.