Injector pulse time is measured in micro seconds. 1 microsecond is .000001 seconds, so 3000 microseconds is .003 second.
Lets discuss Injectors, big fuel
- Thread starter TNRGreene
- Start date
Here is a picture of a cracked piston it only lasted 370 xxx miles with high timing And improper fueling via me.
Improper fueling..
I told you I wasn't talking about you....
Put it this way, I made 820hp with about 2000 PW on a very rough tune, 2 days after getting the motor running. The weakest tune I ran at the track had 1700 PW and ran a very clean (no smoke) 11.5@119. Now the weakest tune on it is about 1500 PW and it is still pretty dang strong. I would say that to get down to stock fueling I would be well under 1000 PW, probably around 700 (half of what a stock tune has) - but with this charger it's just not feasible to try to run stock fueling.
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Oh we're out here! lol#1- Injectors- Stock
#2- PW- 3300
#3- Timing- 38
#4- Fueling- Stock CP3
#5- Turbo - Stock
#6- Motor built or not- Stock
#7- LIft Pumps - edlebrock 1792
It looks like the LLYs and lb7s pistons are getting hurt with high pulsewidth high timing stock turbo tunes, but the lbzs+ have bigger turbos?
No... the LB7/LLY pistons are a stronger design. The LBZ/LMM are weaker, turbo size doesn't seem to have any effect just a plain roll of the dice
Improper fueling..
feasible..... nor would it be any fun
GMC_2002_Dmax
The Still Master
I had a long post typed up and decided not to submit it.
IMHO efi-live is a tool, just like a chainsaw is and just like any other tool you can get hurt by improperly using it.
Add in the fact that many people will ignore the warning signs of improper tuning like "rattles" and excessive EGT's and the recipe is there for engine destruction.
Arguing about balancing injector flow is just another argument of late, some see no need for it while others do, I am of the opinion that is is well worth it for what it costs.
I have had many conversations about what I "think" and my answer is always the same, you ask any competition engine builder what a High Perf build should be and the answer is the same. Blueprint and Balance the rotating assembly, free up air flow in and out of the motor, use the best parts available.
The final piece of the puzzle is proper tuning. All the best parts in the world do you no good if you have bad tuning.
I don't claim to be the best at giving advice or tuning diesels, but I do have a pretty good track record and have been trusted with many big budget builds.
So I'll keep on doing what I think is right and if you disagree with me you have that right to do so, it's your choice to either "do" or "not do" something regarding a build. When shit breaks you get to do it all over again.
IMHO efi-live is a tool, just like a chainsaw is and just like any other tool you can get hurt by improperly using it.
Add in the fact that many people will ignore the warning signs of improper tuning like "rattles" and excessive EGT's and the recipe is there for engine destruction.
Arguing about balancing injector flow is just another argument of late, some see no need for it while others do, I am of the opinion that is is well worth it for what it costs.
I have had many conversations about what I "think" and my answer is always the same, you ask any competition engine builder what a High Perf build should be and the answer is the same. Blueprint and Balance the rotating assembly, free up air flow in and out of the motor, use the best parts available.
The final piece of the puzzle is proper tuning. All the best parts in the world do you no good if you have bad tuning.
I don't claim to be the best at giving advice or tuning diesels, but I do have a pretty good track record and have been trusted with many big budget builds.
So I'll keep on doing what I think is right and if you disagree with me you have that right to do so, it's your choice to either "do" or "not do" something regarding a build. When shit breaks you get to do it all over again.
I had a long post typed up and decided not to submit it.
IMHO efi-live is a tool, just like a chainsaw is and just like any other tool you can get hurt by improperly using it.
Add in the fact that many people will ignore the warning signs of improper tuning like "rattles" and excessive EGT's and the recipe is there for engine destruction.
Arguing about balancing injector flow is just another argument of late, some see no need for it while others do, I am of the opinion that is is well worth it for what it costs.
I have had many conversations about what I "think" and my answer is always the same, you ask any competition engine builder what a High Perf build should be and the answer is the same. Blueprint and Balance the rotating assembly, free up air flow in and out of the motor, use the best parts available.
The final piece of the puzzle is proper tuning. All the best parts in the world do you no good if you have bad tuning.
I don't claim to be the best at giving advice or tuning diesels, but I do have a pretty good track record and have been trusted with many big budget builds.
So I'll keep on doing what I think is right and if you disagree with me you have that right to do so, it's your choice to either "do" or "not do" something regarding a build. When shit breaks you get to do it all over again.
Good Post
Broken Parts
Good post Tony! We are asking a lot out of these motor's. When you push hard things will happen. Jeff
Good post Tony! We are asking a lot out of these motor's. When you push hard things will happen. Jeff
Oh yea! lol forgot about that. Wasn't sprayin when it happend. Actually wasn't drivin it really hard either.
The problem I see is that base torque wont go past 750 ft. lbs. something on LLYs and LB7s. It would be nice if you could do that but I would think your torque limiting injection quantity would still be off especially if you have a really altered pulsewidth from stock.
why would base torque need to go past 750 lbs , base torque is just a hypothetical fueling # ? and TLIQ works off MM3 , it doesnt care what the pulse is just what cell # to reference .
I had to change the scaling table for my torque sensor (located in the rear axle) to get mine to run right with so much torque :rofl:.
Actually I'm full of it and also don't understand why he thinks that base torque needs to go above 750 and would bet his truck doesn't shift for sh*t at certain throttle positions.
I know 2 other people who resisted with the " torque sensor " reply , you just had to do it Dustin :rofl:
We sell resistors that you can wire in line with the sensor so that if you are running the bully dog/Superchips/Edge/Banks stack like we are running on Winston's you can get away with over 750 ft lbs without problems as well.
I had to...:joker: :rofl:
I had to...:joker: :rofl:
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