Allison 5sp: Issues after rebuild

[TheBac]

Well he did want Mike to chime in

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I saw earlier today that Mike and Evan were both reading this thread, and I figured it was just a matter of time before one of them got fed up and read this guy the riot act. I truly dont blame them one bit.

BTW, thanks for trying to set the guy straight. :thumb:

 

[Weisguy]

Actually if you read the posts then you will see there was no codes. And hell yeah I'm not spending 30k on a truck like you guys. I'm spending 4k max. And I'm at 3k now. A Trans shop would put me over budget. So excuse me for wanting to learn something new that could help me in the future. I don't have people hold my hand and do things for me. But I do need some advice sometimes. Apparently the duramax community is not a friendly one. You have to put someone down for trying to learn new things and become a better mechanic. Paying someone to do it for me doesn't teach me anything except how to blow my money. I came across a problem and was man enough to seek help but was met with mass criticism. If you needed more detail then just ask. I can tell you anything and everything. But don't call me a ****ing idiot because I want to do it myself. Anyone on here that built a transmission started somewhere.

 

[JRein]

I saw earlier today that Mike and Evan were both reading this thread, and I figured it was just a matter of time before one of them got fed up and read this guy the riot act. I truly dont blame them one bit.

BTW, thanks for trying to set the guy straight. :thumb:

He seemed to simmer and start to listen on the tail end but apparently not. To the OP you came in ranting and raving demanding someone tell you what to replace but that's not possible. There are codes but your equipment isn't capable to pull it. A speck of dirt in the wrong place will make it fail. You fail to humble yourself and listen to people who have seen people like you come in and expect some voodoo to fix your trans. I wouldn't be surprised if your gone after this. The people here are not bad and have a vast knowledge but you came in like an ass.

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[IOWA LLY]

Here are the facts.

1: Unplugging the connector at the rear takes every bit of electrical out of the equation. The Allison will hydraulically default to 3rd, and reverse without being plugged in. So if it wont move with it unplugged something is internally wrong. PERIOD!


2nd: The edge will not read TCM codes. Been there done that. Get a good up to date scan tool. Or better yet get someone with a tech 2 to read the codes for you.

3rd: I would highly recommend you remove the plug in the bottom of the bell-housing, take it to a local hydraulic shop, and get a hose made to go into that hole and connect it to a good quality 0-400 PSI gauge. Then start the truck and report back what the pressure is at idle in park, and in gear.

4th, and most importantly, this trans will have to come out, and be carefully torn apart to be fixed. But you must gather the proper information before tearing it down to determine where the problem is.



Now if you simply want guesses on whats wrong. I would guess that you probably installed the bell-housing gaskets wrong. And that a torrington bearing fell out of place while you had it apart and now its crushed up and going through all your planetaries destroying everything.

 

[IOWA LLY]

When you disassembled it did you stand it up on end with the bell-housing pointing up?

 

[Burn Down]

Dude, just stop digging... Take the f-er back out. Post some pics of the carnage. Then humbly ask for some advice, if you can't figure out on your own. Stop being a f-ing baby:thumb:

 

[Weisguy]

Thank you Iowa lly. That's all I've wanted. Not voodoo. Just some suggestions. I did say I have a Mac tools scanner too. The cts is just to read all the finer details. I've been using both. I found oil/transmission pressure testers and thought abouthat buying one because they aren't that much. The only thing is I can't find the thread size of the main pressure in the tranny to make sure it matches. I know it has to come out now thank to the help of the people that suggested the plug. I'm sorry if I generalized my statements but some of you are being unhelpful assholes and that's the truth. Some of you are being helpful too. I did not come here for magic or voodoo. Only for suggestions and a list of possibilities. I see now I did over estimate the capabilities of the people on here because I figured you had more experience and would know what was going on. I gave as much detail as I could without going crazy with it

 

[Weisguy]

Oh. And on the gaskets I know there's a tab that faces the passenger side and it is. And I know they are on the right side of the plate that they belong too

 

[Josh2002cc]

The only thing is I can't find the thread size of the main pressure in the tranny to make sure it matches.

Pull the plug and take to your local hydraulic shop. They can match the threads and get you setup with the proper fitting. Grab a gauge while you are there along with a whip hose. Unless you live in a remote area, any decent hydraulic shop should be able to set you up.

Do this and post your findings.

 

[IOWA LLY]

Once you do tear it apart take good pictures of everything as you go. De we can see how and what direction everything was installed. Especially the bell housing gaskets. You can text them to me if you can't figure out how to post them here.


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[Josh2002cc]

I'm sorry if I generalized my statements but some of you are being unhelpful assholes and that's the truth. Some of you are being helpful too. I did not come here for magic or voodoo. Only for suggestions and a list of possibilities. I see now I did over estimate the capabilities of the people on here because I figured you had more experience and would know what was going on. I gave as much detail as I could without going crazy with it

We all understand that you are frustrated with your trans right now. That is reasonable. Just keep your cool and take the advice of those who are truly trying to help you.

Don't sweat some of these comments on here. I would bet a sack of nickels that some of the people posting smart ass comments have never built a trans before and have no real technical advice to pass along.

Remember, be cool. :coolspot:

 

[Weisguy]

The problem with the hydraulic shop is I live in a country town and nowhere near a place like that. I can see what I can find though. I took lots of pictures during the rebuild and can do so again. I plan on removing it this week. I just really don't appreciate the comments about how I ****ed up and stuff like that. Im actually very smart and quite capable of the job. I just made a mistake and I joined this forum specifically to talk to people that I've read a lot about and thought I could get some good advice. I really do appreciate the help that I've gotten from some of you and I've already learned a couple things from you. On a side note, can someone suggest a good snap ring plier set for the job? I used what I had and it was a pita. I broke a couple pairs.

 

[beach_33]

When you split the valve body are you sure you put the plate back in between correctly? You could have over torqued the bolts when putting the valve body back together. I think it only requires like 8ft lbs. I'm probably wrong on that number. But over torqued bolts will warp the valve body and cause fluid passages to leak which will cause problems.

 

[Burn Down]

7/16-20 o-ring boss is the thread size... If you truly had done your research you would have known that this thread would go the direction it did... Admit your mistakes, do what is asked, be humble and this place can be a wealth of knowledge. Ask for a magic 8 ball answer and well you got one...

 

[JRein]

I've spent a lot of time trying to find what's wrong and can't find anything that fits my problem. I bought a 2001 2500HD duramax with 5 speed allison. It had a leak at the bellhousing and also came with a full transgo kit. So I took it out and decided to take the transmission apart and install the kit. After reinstalling the transmission, it slips really bad and wont move sometimes. When it does get moving, it wont shift out of 1st. I thought it might be the nsbu so I replaced it and it didn't work. I have my own shop and have built several motors before but this was my first transmission. I made sure everything was put back right. I only replaced 1 C1 clutch due to some chipping. The rest of them were in perfect shape and checked with a micrometer. I figured I would see if anyone knew anything. I was hoping for some advice from Mike L. as I understand he is the expert in these trannys. Thank you for any help

You never said if you ever had reverse and did you have the CTS hooked up to show gear selection?


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[Weisguy]

When you split the valve body are you sure you put the plate back in between correctly? You could have over torqued the bolts when putting the valve body back together. I think it only requires like 8ft lbs. I'm probably wrong on that number. But over torqued bolts will warp the valve body and cause fluid passages to leak which will cause problems.

I don't have anything to torque that low but I did just make them snug. I probably still overtightened them with that low of a number. But that don't sound like it would happen instantly. More like over hundreds or thousands of miles.

 

[Weisguy]

You never said if you ever had reverse and did you have the CTS hooked up to show gear selection?


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I put somewhere that reverse was in and out. I would back upain just fine for a while, then lose everything. If I messed with it going park to reverse restarting the truck and stuff, I would get reverse back. I used the cts to check the throttle position for function, gear selection, Trans temp, and fuel level. I used my scanner to check for codes that only appeared when I started unplugging shit and to clear them. I used a power probe to control where power was going and read voltages. I used a multimeter to check resistances and power draw.

 

[WolfLMM]

I don't have anything to torque that low but I did just make them snug. I probably still overtightened them with that low of a number. But that don't sound like it would happen instantly. More like over hundreds or thousands of miles.

Drop the pan and torque those bolts properly... you have to have codes....

 

[IOWA LLY]

I don't have anything to torque that low but I did just make them snug. I probably still overtightened them with that low of a number. But that don't sound like it would happen instantly. More like over hundreds or thousands of miles.

Stop making stupid assumptions.

Over torquing the valve body bolts can cause valves to stick instantly.


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[Weisguy]

Drop the pan and torque those bolts properly... you have to have codes....

I had codes come up but I cleared them. I got 0717 for turbine speed sensor. I got 0748 and another one for the solenoids. I got the usual 0700 which is just to activate the light. But all those only came up when I unplugged them. I plugged them back in and cleared them and didn't have anymore. Unless there's more that I need a high dollar scanner to find.