Is there something specific to look for on teardown to tell if the valve body is ****ed? Certain marks or discoloring or anything?
Allison 5sp: Issues after rebuild
- Thread starter Weisguy
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Is there something specific to look for on teardown to tell if the valve body is ****ed? Certain marks or discoloring or anything?
Check that all valves move in their bores smoothly and freely, with no catching or chattering. You might need to get a reemer and fix some of the bores. IIRC, MikeL posted before that sometimes the valve bores are out of round from the factory, and barely work to begin with. Throw a tiny bit of extra torque on the valve body, and nothing will move.
I never saw if you answered the question about if your transmission was worked on stood up on the tailshaft or not? The comments about the rear torrington bearing falling down are a VERY common failure when newbies build a transmission, and trashes all kinds of things. If you worked on the transmission horizontally, you might want to tear it a bit farther down this time and ensure the bearing didn't get hosed. If you worked on it vertically, you're probably fine.
As for the attitude of the site, it largely depends on your attitude coming in. Yeah, some members are unhelpful, and some are spoiled rich kids, but 95% of the people here work hard for their money, and know their limits. Paying a shop is often the right answer if you don't have the time to learn the skills. And, as you are finding out, the Allison is not as simple as it looks to be on paper, so learning the skills can take longer and cost more than you might think. So like everyone else is saying, chill out, pull the trans, and see what you find. Believe it or not, we are trying to help. We just have little patience for what we see as demands on our time (why do we help random strangers for free?) from people who aren't appreciative. A good attitude in return goes a long ways.
Good luck on the re-rebuild. Post what you find, stay cool, and we'll get you back on the road.
Ok. Ill make sure to check that they move freely. I worked on it horizontally on the transmission jack. When I did my research I saw some stuff about doing it vertical to make it easier but for me it was easier to not have to pick up the whole transmission and set it on the ground and balance it. Then pick it back up 4 feet onto the jack. If the bearing did fall out, would it make a bunch of noise and grinding etc? Because I haven't had any of that except when I disconnected the solenoids and went from reverse to park.
And now I do know that it is harder than it seems at first but it won't stop me from trying to learn more. I'm someone who learns from my mistakes and this is a big one I don't want to make again. I never meant to make it seem like I demand help, but I do expect it when thats what this whole page is for. Honestly I guess I'm just used to the jeep community where you say you have a problem and you instantly have 50 guys telling you every nut, bolt, and wire that needs to be removed or replaced. I do appreciate when people help. But Noone wanted to at first. I can actually contribute some knowledge of my own to this site. Especially stuff like custom builds because I enjoy doing those and autozone hates me for them. Lol. I did not just randomly find a site and post on it. I've been on here as a guest many times but needed to join to post myself. I know there are great guys that know a lot and that's what I was seeking.
Sounds like you didn't read the book you said you bought.
Pulling the front half apart horizontal will displace many parts, not one or two. I'm guessing the bellhousing didn't sit all the way down and you ran the bolts home too, and end thrust was probably non existent.
Pulling the front half apart horizontal will displace many parts, not one or two. I'm guessing the bellhousing didn't sit all the way down and you ran the bolts home too, and end thrust was probably non existent.
You still seem to be "demanding" help and you have received good, sage advice. You come across as an entitled "20 something" millennial whining that it's our fault since we can't "pinpoint' your screw up from 2000 miles away. PureHybrid offered you the "Buddy" discount. Take his generosity or sell your diesel and stick with Jeeps... :hug:
I made sure the bellhousing was seated all the way against the main housing before I bolted it down. I didn't have to force anything into place.
No. Forums are made for asking for help and getting advice. That's what this is. I'm not demanding that anyone help. If you don't want to, then don't comment. But if you are willing to help a guy learn, then thank you. And yes I am a 20 something year old but that doesn't mean shit. If only 60 year olds know how to work on these trucks then what happens when they all die or get too old to help. I'm trying to learn from more experienced people and maybe one day I'll be good enough to pass it down to someone willing to learn. I don't want it pinpointed. Just narrowed down. And as I stated before, I don't want to take it to another person so I can learn. I do appreciate the offer and I might still take it later on if that's ok.
That seems to be a good possibility. I never did get an answer on if the bearing falling out will cause noise issues but it may have played a hand if it's silent
There's a really good thread on here about the "built not bought" mentality you should read. I'm not trying to bash you but 95% of the people on here would never work on their own Allison. The horror stories like yours are all over and the advice given depends on your knowledge and attitude towards the situation. This site has the most knowledgeable people in the business so be humble and polite even when they are not, and you will learn in time.
I bet pulling the pan would give you a good indication if there's been a bearing getting ate up.
If it's in the valve body, they are often out of round and need to be corrected when removed. There are ways to correct it but never ever take an abrasive to the valve itself. I've used a short stick of 3/8" brake line, cut the end off and used 220/440 wet sand paper wrapped around to lightly correct the bore. Only the bore though. Make the correction and freeze the valve body for at least an hour. If everything moved smooth you should be good
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Weisguy;1078942 I worked on it horizontally on the transmission jack. [SIZE="5" said:
Its not to make it easier. Its so you don't end up with a disaster.
I'm all for people learning, but some people insist on learning everything the hard way. You clearly ignored the good advice you read or picked up prior to the initial tear down. And now you are ignoring most people on here.
Stop being cheap and lazy. Literally can rent it from AutoZone for essentially free or spend $50 and have it. Get and inch lb wrench and torque the valve body to 96. You said you had your own shop now get professional tools to do it right. It's a job related expense.
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actually, this forum was made because DP sold out and Pat was tired of the politcal BS going on over there. This site was created and is funded by Pat and Kat (i believe Rob too) through their own funds and the help of supporting vendors. They wanted this place so all their internet friends and local friends could join, talk actual dmax tech and progress the sport. Since then, with all the great tech here, google has moved us up the list for searches and many people now know about this site. IT IS NOT BUILT TO GIVE YOU FREE INFO AND "REQUIRED" TO HELP YOU. we are here to discuss duramax stuff, talk with friends, and see how the performance progresses.
That said, we are a family here. We do not welcome everyone in with open arms, just flat out how it is. specially with people who want to fly in, get tech on their own f***k up and then leave never to return again.
If you want to continue to be apart of this site and get the great tech that CAN be supplied, stop whining about how you are in a rural area, dont have the tools or gauges, and whining over the fact you are not getting the answers you are after. You got into this thing and there are some guys better than i am at this point trying to give you help yet you still continue to find excuses.
this is your last chance. Knock it off, listen, figure out how to get the proper tooling and come back with the info we need. DO NOT give me a long bag winded post about my post, we are all done with it.
I'm getting a small torque wrench today. When i freeze the valve body, do I freeze it with the valves in it or do I freeze them separate, or not at all?
If the trans didn't have a problem before, I wouldn't point fingers at the valve body and the boring being out of round just yet, drop the pan and retorque all the bolts to the proper spec, these guys said it would set up valves by over torquing the bolts. That's where I would start if I was in your position, retorque and check for foreign objects in the pan.
Freeze it when it's all together.
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Yeah. I'm not saying thats the only problem either. But I do want to make sure they move freely and I may have to clean up the holes after getting them to the right torque.
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