i want to know peoples input on the duraflite, i want to know specs,how it runs, ive called ron at suncoast and he told a lil bit about it, but i want to know more, i want to see videos and talk to people that run before i buy, so let me know
Duraflite
- Thread starter southernsmoke
- Start date
they are expensive( like 12g), they are for more all out drag racers. i personally think they are maybe a good thing in certain instances, but the allison has come a long way lately. look at trents truck in the 9's or dmitris truck making 1700hp. i mean unless your wanting a mid 9 second truck i wouldnt spend the money on it. ive also heard they are bad about having converter problems. just my opinion.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20720&highlight=duraflite
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9976&highlight=duraflite
The search option is your friend. :thumb:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9976&highlight=duraflite
The search option is your friend. :thumb:
I'm not sold on the Duraflite. Sure it's lighter and shifts quicker, but once you start pushing the 4 digit hp, they don't seem to last any longer than a properly built ally based on what I've seen/heard. There are 9 second guys running both Ally's and Duraflites now so each to their own in the end I suppose.
if i were to build an all out race car/truck i would do it like the mustang that johnboy tunes. something light gets 35mpg and is fast as hell. trucks are cool in all but at the end of the day they arent made to be an all out race vehicle. just my :2cents:
If it was me I'd stick to the ally just cause I have faith in it and it's what the dmax should have. Can't have no stank'n crhysler garbage under there
never said it wasnt. but no race truck is 7000lbs. look at max'd out and trent. like i said FULL out race vehicle i wouldnt use a dmax. daily driver to take to the track once a month. yea sure dmax all the way.
Well if you have ever driven a full out big HP dmax with both then the decision would be easy. Yes both will break, yes the Duraflite likes it's TC changed about every 20-25 passes. You will cut about 2-3/10 at least off your et by going to a Duraflite. We raced one last year all year without issue. This year we have had problems, mainly with the TC. For a full out, yet streetable Duramax I think it's a better option. Look at the quick 50 list. The first 5 are not even real trucks, #6, 7, 10, 11, and 13 are all Duraflites and the last two are just getting started. I have an Allison in White Out. It ran 10.7 with a tranny that was flairing to over 5000rpm on the shifts. If I had a Duraflite in it, it runs 10.5's easy.
If I were starting out and wasn't trying to make a low 9 to mid 10 sec truck, then I have an Allison. If I did and and still wanted to street drive the truck a little then it would be a Durafite.
If I were starting out and wasn't trying to make a low 9 to mid 10 sec truck, then I have an Allison. If I did and and still wanted to street drive the truck a little then it would be a Durafite.
Ken not arguing with what you posted here I think its a pretty honest post based 100% off of what your experiences have been , but comparing all Allison's isnt going to cut it , and i know you have had problems in white out , but the combo of parts used makes a difference , and changes the comparison a great deal , I never had a trans failure this but did tear it down mi year and while in there put new clutches in to be safe , pictures of the tear down were public , and it did take me a bit to get through some of the problems but i can say my last few times out the trans shifted pretty dang fast , and I doubt was costing me much ET , my exhaust leaks were costing me far more in the 1/8 mile than the trans and at RMR the pass that broke was in the 6.40 range on a 1.6 ish 60 ft ( launched too hard ) you cant tell me that isnt in the par of where it should be at a high elevation track with using big turbo's .
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I have also seen that PCS controller first hand, not impressed by any means way too problematic... To those who do want to run a 47re from a tuning aspect it is not as simple as bolting it all up and having the trans run great.
In the end it would be to each their own. I have yet to hear an allison shift on any truck running low 10's or high 9's like one does with a duraflite. This debate will go on forever. I guess once the allison runs as fast as one with a durafilte then the argument can somewhat stop. I mean max effort to compare. Maxed out ran 9.70's in Topeka as clean as a stock truck running down the track on one pass on dot tires. Buck has ran 115-117 mph in the 1/8th in the 6.0's range. Neither of these have been ran all out yet this year. As far as holding hp that all depends on the build of the trans too. Has anyone ever sliped a fully built trans on a dyno holding in one gear? Most problems are during a shift. Like Osubeaver stated...if neither will last, might as well get the most out of what you got.
Steve i think if it wasn't for cost i would agree , if a duraflite was 6k instead of 12k it would be a no brainier . but for 12k that's a pretty stiff bill , and since i can only compare my own If buck is running 6.0's at 117 and i am running 6.40 @ 113 and .2 or better difference in our 60ft times then
so 12k for .1-.2 et gain MAYBE .............. I guess if i had the 12k i might not care :rofl: or buy a LencoJust charge TJ more lol! That is if everything goes as planned lol! I see your point on cost and its a good one. This sport is like owning power boats as far as cost. If you have a speed part and it is for a baja or diesel you pay twice as much lol. Guess its a good thing people post experiences so the rest of us don't have to waste money on something that doesnt work or not the best option.
Steve i think if it wasn't for cost i would agree , if a duraflite was 6k instead of 12k it would be a no brainier . but for 12k that's a pretty stiff bill , and since i can only compare my own If buck is running 6.0's at 117 and i am running 6.40 @ 113 and .2 or better difference in our 60ft times then
Trent I really think if a guy was wanting to get into a duriflite that it can be done for much less then 12K. You would have to put the parts together yourself. But if you get the adaptor, valve body and controller seperate have the 47 or 48 built locally or do it yourself I think you could beat that price by a bunch. As far as driving the duriflite on the street, I don't know how many are doing that. Big power is hard on the TC on the boosted launches for sure. I know Buck use to drive his a lot on the street, maybe he or Jess can add some info on that.
Paint, please expand your statement on the controller we'd love to hear what you have to say.