Chevy1925 (James) Truck/motor build
- Thread starter Chevy1925
- Start date
Ahh man, hate too see that James. That bottom end has been a trooper over the years for something like that to happen to it. What’s your plans now?
Sorry dude... I’ve loved watching this build over the years. I don’t say much or give much information here because build like this.
Dang, that blows. 
Do you think that cylinder was hydrolocking too? I would've guessed it would bend a connecting rod before that. Sorry man.
Do you think that cylinder was hydrolocking too? I would've guessed it would bend a connecting rod before that. Sorry man.
I don’t know yet. Heart says find a lml block, put fingers pistons or some other pistons in, and put it back together but the mind is saying put her to the side and save for a new truck. This is a tough one
Dang, that blows.
Do you think that cylinder was hydrolocking too? I would've guessed it would bend a connecting rod before that. Sorry man.
Na this is the pass side, the driver side is the one with the cracked head and bent push rod from hydrolocking. That side I already put the new head on and fully torqued down
Na, these H11 A1 studs always got 150ft lbs. that what guy at SoCal torque plate honed the block too and recommended me torquing too. This block has had 5 retorques at 150ft lbs and two previous torques on stock head studs. May have just been time?
Let me know when I can come over and help James...
Sorry I didn’t answer yesterday buddy. I was a bit stressed lol. I’ll let ya know though!
That's hard to swallow for sure.
I say find a good block. Already have everything else ready to bolt in, right?
I say find a good block. Already have everything else ready to bolt in, right?
Basically have the whole top end. I just will be changing pistons for sure. No sense putting delipped lb7 pistons with 220k on them back in when fingers won’t ever be an issue. Then there is the fact I’ll be at the crank, keep the stock one with 220k or put a narrow journal crank in and never worry about that?
This is what kills me.
This is what kills me.
You have a LB7 crank, right? My theory was if a stock crank has seen as much abuse as yours or mine for 220k miles, it's probably good to go. Have it magged while it's out, IMO. A narrow journal crank is tempting, for sure, but you could get this back on the road a lot cheaper reusing yours, and I don't lose any sleep over my 330k mile LB7 crank. Though I tow at only 660 HP, in less hilly country, and I rev it out a bit more. I see your dilemma.
I went with Mahle Race Cast pistons over the Fingers for fuel mileage and smoke control concerns (plus I'm a cheap SOB), but for your application the Fingers are probably a great choice too.
Yup stock crank and you are probably right. I just over build on my personal stuff (within reason) and there is a fix available so it’s a fight in my head.
At this point, I’m looking at LML block options. See what I want to do for cranks when I get near that point.
I just don’t trust mahle race cast. I truly feel they are marginally better than my delipped pistons. The smoke/mpg is a concern on fingers but I’m curious if getting a real tight piston to head clearance and keeping piston to wall clearance tight will keep it minimal. I’ve been running .025-.029 clearance on the engine now and it liked it. I’ll probably have Jon leave the pistons full length and I’ll turn them on my lathe after the block is decked to get me down around .022-.026 on grade A
At this point, I’m looking at LML block options. See what I want to do for cranks when I get near that point.
I just don’t trust mahle race cast. I truly feel they are marginally better than my delipped pistons. The smoke/mpg is a concern on fingers but I’m curious if getting a real tight piston to head clearance and keeping piston to wall clearance tight will keep it minimal. I’ve been running .025-.029 clearance on the engine now and it liked it. I’ll probably have Jon leave the pistons full length and I’ll turn them on my lathe after the block is decked to get me down around .022-.026 on grade A
Have you looked at pricing on LML bottom ends either new or used, probably the most hassle free way to do it
What kind of blasphemy is that?!
But honestly, a known good lml short block will be 3k at best. For a grand or two more I can have a way better short block and 0 miles
I’ll start with a lml block for sure, just not a short block. Then put my rotating assembly in it
