Chevy1925 (James) Truck/motor build
- Thread starter Chevy1925
- Start date
I think the time it saves getting to all the grounds , and ease of removal of TC bolts , starter wiring harness , fan, ect makes up for the time it takes to pull the stuff out ( 30 minutes maybe ) , I would never pull a dmax motor with out pulling the rad , IC , ect the extra room to work is nice IMOP .
Cool deal James glad to see she is finally under way !!
Thats for sure trent. we had the whole front clip out in an hour. Pulling it as one chunk is the only way to do it. Makes things so much easier. Keep your phone on buddy,
My only question was why they removed the bumper assembly but with his setup it makes sense why they did, the rest is kinda a given you would remove it. I certainly had no issues getting access to anything in mine with the bumper on and the front wheels off.
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Pulling the stock.bumper takes 15 min 4 bolts and its outta the way makes alot more room and is easy to put on again so i like lots of room
I think pulling both the radiator and intercooler is a good ideah, gives you a chance to clean them really good plus makes the job easier.
James what studs are you going with A1 or ARP, I have to do my headgaskets to and was wondering what everyone likes guess I should start a new thread maybe.
James what studs are you going with A1 or ARP, I have to do my headgaskets to and was wondering what everyone likes guess I should start a new thread maybe.
Lol maybe i should put a pic of my bumper up. It sits too close to yhe core support to not be taken off and its literally a one man job to take it off in 2 min.
Im goin with arp studs for the truck. Always heard good things about them and no issues.
Im goin with arp studs for the truck. Always heard good things about them and no issues.
good luck on the build. looks like you guys have it all under control! The random bolt looks like the ones that hold on the reluctor wheel. I know if I ever tear my motor apart, I'll find two of them in the oil pan.
I dont think its a reluctor wheel cuz they are a gold color and they are pretty short. Guess we will find out..
Fyi, the harbor freight 2k engin mount is very sturdy. I wouldnt hesitate to put a fully dressed motor on it. Right now mine has everything on it minus the mid plate, fly wheel, and front accesorys. Thing is very stable. I was very leary of it at first and had a hell of a time finding some 12 x 1.75 bolts that were long enough. Luckily ace hardware had some 90mm long 12.somethin grade allen bolts. I really didnt wanna hang that motor off 8.8 grade bolts
I had the same issue finding the M12x1.75's everything was to short. I ended up finding them in the wrong bin at home depot. I bought the same stand and i'm glad I got it it was cheap and is more than up to the job. A little paint removal and greasing the hell out it really helps for spinning the motor.
X2, I removed all the paint on the rotating assembly and loaded it with grease
Good luck on the build man:thumb:
Anyone looking for those bolts i found them at fastenall and they were allens also
Y'all remember that bolts are graded in tensile strength not shear. A 12.9 Allen will snap in half under heavy shear load with no warning compared to a 8.8 will bend alot before it breaks. Simon has a good thread on engine stand bolts somewhere around hear.