X2 I know it is very expensive to build a d-max, but it would be great if more people would get involved to bring the prices down a little.Sorry for getting off topic.Just agree with above post.
Build costs
- Thread starter Redbowties88
- Start date
X2 I know it is very expensive to build a d-max, but it would be great if more people would get involved to bring the prices down a little.Sorry for getting off topic.Just agree with above post.
it includes gaskets, what exact gaskets, trent would have to answer. Oil and filter, 30 bucks for me, coolant- another 20 bucks. i know you wouldnt build it for that but id only build it for towing reasons and the occasional fun days. diesel is not my way of life granted its a good part, desert racing is my passion and what i love to do. And thank you for the compliment
I agree it cant be free but why would trent come on to a forum he supports and preech about a price he cant match? I added dimitris list up without head stuff and im still at 6500-6600
Im not against what he does, i was talking about rebuilding the heads as well in the prices i was refering too, and not, one person ever said a word about his turbo kits
with a full head job, i can see your price but what condones that everyones head needs a rebuild? if im not buring oil through the valves, have a tight seal with my valves still ( ie, no burnt valves or see where the seal os wearin in too much) and my heads still check out to be flat, is it that bad to put them back on? Id definitly have a pro check with me on teh heads jsu tto make sure all seems well. his pricing isnt that far off if you take the head stuff out of your list no?
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The build can depends on end goal end of story. Some one wants 650 HP rods an machine work pretty basic. Someone wants 1000+the list gets bigger real simple so the its all personal preference
so the its all personal preference
i dont talk about your builds trent, nor do i care, if you think i dont know what you paid or did, might wanna guess again!!! you think you can back yard build a motor, and all off a sudden have all these great specs trent wowwwww i wish i had all your specs from one motor!!!! I also dont care who your parts come from. all i said was keep it down on line, your not the only one that uses randy remember that!!! im not talking just for me, im talking for several people!!
The build can depends on end goal end of story. Some one wants 650 HP rods an machine work pretty basic. Someone wants 1000+the list gets bigger real simple
God jake have your wife type for you
Grow up , and move on ASSUME all you want , I dont work for free I am now running a full time shop , have put 20k cash into it this year in upgrades , 2 lathes , construction , all new electrical , welders . plasma's , press braks , shears , benders , what havew you put into your shop that you need all this over head for ? I must not be working for free
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lets break this down a little better trent since its your first time using a machine shop shall we
crower rods 2600 dollars
cut and coated pistons 600
mill deck, if needed 150
hone block 125
cut 3 keys, 2 crank, 1 cam, 85 a piece
clean block 70
assemble short block, and sim test 600
ballance rotating assamble 350
clean heads 70
pressure test heads 80
head work if needed, valve grind 325
mill heads 100
install main studs and line hone 175
install new guides and labor 300
valve seals 58
clean and polish crank 50
mag crank 40
main studs 270
head gaskets 180
h series mains and rod bearings 350
piston rings 400
motor gasket kit around 400
head studs 600
ect..... thats a bare bone build!!!
So far thats 7748, not depending on how your stock parts look, so lets get a little closer to what this game actually costs!!!:thumb: Thats not even everything, we could push this right down to oils and filters, labor on top of this depending on who does your build, tunning for the new motor
so can anyone tell me where trents pricing is way out of line if you take out the bold and only coat your stock pistons for a short block?
God jake have your wife type for you
Eat me
driods an beer :woott: so I can't type very good after that. What's your plans tomorrow?
the original talk was a full motor build for 6500, i put together a 7760 dollar price to get alittle more on track with what it actually cost, then it turned into a short block build, i was trying to prove a point that it could not be done for 6500 with no corners cut!! long block!
Eat me
lol i wish i was drinking right now
playing in the snow, how about you??
what if my heads check out perfectly fine? never got an answer as to why i would have to do my heads if everything looks to be in good condition and where did we say long block build, you threw that in there. I posted about a short block, though it was not specifically stated.
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lol i wish i was drinking right now
Come down have a beer lol not sure going to eat in poky then head to if probably an were you playing in the snow?
Sorry off topic hey Dimitri text me
prolly cause if your gonna bake the cake, why would you leave the icing off, unless you just like pound cake? :roflmao:
If you have high mileage on your motor and you have been running higher cylinder pressures, odds are your heads will not be flat. These are aluminum heads and should be checked for flatness every time they are removed. I will also bet money that you will need a valve job and at minimum your exhaust valve guides will need replacing. High EGT's and the daily temperature cycles of the motor will take a toll on the heads over time.
yea but i dont plan on pushing it quite as hard as you there buddy
but it is my daily driver.... so i do want it to be somewhat reliable.. im def gonna have it balanced. i had how uneven it is even bone stock
Im reminded of the saying, "The best laid plans of mice and men...." :rofl: Build for more than you currently plan.
Here is my question ? what do people consider " half assed" "incorrect" , ect ? I keep hearing comments on the subject and several are from people with ZERO miles, ZERO passe's , and NO HP #'s to associate to there "bullet proof" motors , throwing parts at a motor asnd calling it "the right way" as Insurance I have a problem with there are several things in this thread it doesn't apply to as there has been some b=very good info and advice shared , but a competent mechanic / machinist has the ability to tear a engine down completely , inspect every item and decide from there what a motor does and does not need based off of the target HP goal , wear of the internal items , ect .
Just something to think about , I "half assed a motor last year in a lot of peoples minds , the forget that I have built several engines prior , am a ASE certified "Master tech " one of those in "engine repair and diagnostics" , just because I didnt throw 10k at it doesnt mean it was "shotty"
Yeah, you sure half-assed that build, Trent.
Damn cheapest 9 sec engine Ive ever heard of. Beech, Im no pro mechanic but I built my motor for about $5k in my garage. 6000 miles and 10 passes later and it runs perfectly fine. Probably should have used the $2500 I spent on injectors and manifolds to buy rods, but it is what it is.
Get a good torque wrench, subscribe to AlldataDIY, and get a reputable machine shop to balance the crank and do the rest of the machine work. Get lots of Ziploc bags and label everything as you take the motor apart. Take your time and double check all your steps as you assemble. Dont let any buddies distract you while you're wrenching. Building a Dmax isnt all that tough to do if youve ever built an engine before (theres just an awful lot of stuff bolted to it), but it sure can be easy to screw something up if you arent paying attention.
Good luck. You'll learn an incredible amount about these motors and have fun doing it if you build it yourself.
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