I drive my puller eveyday, still tow with it too. All you guys are just full of $hit.
You get 26 mpg to dont ya! :hug:
:rofl:Build costs
- Thread starter Redbowties88
- Start date
You get 26 mpg to dont ya! :hug:
:rofl:
I drive my puller eveyday, still tow with it too. All you guys are just full of $hit.
Me too, but for some reason people look at me weird at stop lights when I put on my helmet, and start to spool up:roflmao:
Yes sir figured I would toss in the aluminum factor again on this thread thats my shoe size 9.5 to let every get a feel of the size.
BME Forged Aluminum and here is great quote sense the comment was brought up you cant run Aluminum on the street.
"In a street application, using the aluminum rod is a no brainer," BME President, Bill Miller, recently said in an interview with an automotive magazine. "I don't know how the myth that aluminum rods can't be used on the street got started, but I'll guess that, back in the 60s and early-70s, weren't making them using the process we're using, today. With the material we've got and they way we manufacture the connecting rods, they'll live a couple hundred thousand miles on the street because a street application is, for the most part, low load. Our basic Aluminum Rod is made for 10,000 rpm and 800-hp. The design criteria for the connecting rod is way overkill for what it's going see on the street. We been running aluminum rods on the street for 20 years."
:happy2:
Whether alum rods will be viable for diesels has yet to be seen.
But think about this. A built Dmax put more load on a rod than a Top Alcohol engine does. A stock 2011 Dmax puts more load on the rod than a Bugatti Veyron. This is based on # of cyl, and torque.
No supercar uses aluminum rods. No production engine does.
Are all those engineers stupid? They are aware of what aluminum can or cannot do, since they make most the engine parts from aluminum today.
All current aluminum alloys are more malleable than alloy steel. This means they can deform.
A rod must hold it's geometry for it's whole life. Deformation is not an option. As soon as an aluminum rod deforms, it's worth about $1.10 per pound. Currently, alloy steel forged rods are surviving indefinately.
Pat, a top alcohol engine makes about twice the cylinder psi of a built d-max....and top fuel makes about 3 times the CP of a built d-max.....
Pro stock and pro mod are much closer in comparison.
I suppose time will tell.
Understand, that I tore a piston in half at Bonneville and stuck the rod through the cylinder at 4500rpm.
The rod didn't bend.
Understand, that I tore a piston in half at Bonneville and stuck the rod through the cylinder at 4500rpm.
The rod didn't bend.
Thanks
This thread has got a lot of info in it good and bad im in the same place right now trying to figure out what to do with my own motor build. Thats why i started to read it and ill i got to say is wow! thanks to you all for the info and the help i have learned lots in this one about people and the build. what to do? Still not sure what ill do. but i do know more than i started on what to do and what not thanks guys
This thread has got a lot of info in it good and bad im in the same place right now trying to figure out what to do with my own motor build. Thats why i started to read it and ill i got to say is wow! thanks to you all for the info and the help i have learned lots in this one about people and the build. what to do? Still not sure what ill do. but i do know more than i started on what to do and what not thanks guys
Havent read it all yet but want to subscribe now. I don't agree that there is ANY WAY OF KNOWING when you need to overbore, other than actually measureing and checking that every thing is fine. I assume Guys reasonsing behind the 50k or more=.020 is more of a preventive mantaince sort of think. Kinda protecting his own work so everything will be perfect when it goes back together.
For me when/IF I ever build it. Here is what I want
Rods, either stock coated and cut or new performance pistons(may even go with TTS)
keyway in crank, cam, maybe water pump,
Headstuds, and valve springs. highly doubt I would get main studs unless someone says I NEED THEM, if Im spending extra money on that area of the engine I would feel better with a girdle. I honestly see no reason in head porting in a forced induction engine unless you are competing in a motorsport. I also see no reason in a aftermarket cam this is not a gasser. If you want to run high rpm fueling would be your biggest trouble I think and really the only reason I would run high rpm is if I had a stock motor and I'm trying to keep the stress down on it. If your building it I think the stock rpm range is wide enough to make power, and you can save the extra cash for your own pocket.
I would also get a set of 100over injectors, cp3x2, and alot of air But I would not do those while the engine is being built. I'd save that money for next year that way you aren't in as much shock of the cost.
For me when/IF I ever build it. Here is what I want
Rods, either stock coated and cut or new performance pistons(may even go with TTS
)keyway in crank, cam, maybe water pump,
Headstuds, and valve springs. highly doubt I would get main studs unless someone says I NEED THEM, if Im spending extra money on that area of the engine I would feel better with a girdle. I honestly see no reason in head porting in a forced induction engine unless you are competing in a motorsport. I also see no reason in a aftermarket cam this is not a gasser. If you want to run high rpm fueling would be your biggest trouble I think and really the only reason I would run high rpm is if I had a stock motor and I'm trying to keep the stress down on it. If your building it I think the stock rpm range is wide enough to make power, and you can save the extra cash for your own pocket.
I would also get a set of 100over injectors, cp3x2, and alot of air
But I would not do those while the engine is being built. I'd save that money for next year that way you aren't in as much shock of the cost.
You obviously don't know what a cam does to make that kinda statement . And as far as porting heads goes, if you can make it easier for the Turbo to get the air in, and the piston to get it out, then my friend you have gained horsepower any way you look at it.
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Don't take me the wrong way, not being mean, the cam is the brain of the motor . If you hold the valve open father and longer gives you more air. More air is more power!
And you don't have to spend 4 grand to get some good results. No one said just go buy Guy's Mack daddy heads
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The cam has no brain. The cam designer does. The cam designer should have thought out what the heads and intake will need if anything. If you are going to recommend what people should do; show us what you did and why. Show us how your idea was better and how fast your truck is. Untill then; read and learn and STFU cause you are blowing smoke up everyones ass.
Ahhhh !!!!! And the God has arrose lmao. Post "YOUR" times there Richard and not anybody else's. Maybe you should stfu and go take a geratol. Don't you have anything better to do that make unnecessary comments to try and make yourself look good. Go do what you do best and build a tranny or two with all due respect. It was uncalled for, but if that makes you feel better have at it.
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p.s. If you can put your reading glasses on and reread my post i never said "the cam has a brain".:thumb: