I seen them 3 years ago, so who did you copy them off of?oke:
Your right it was 3 years ago i made them, i forgot it was infact that long ago, 2008 seems like yesterday. The whole design was some ideas i put together, based on our cummins projects.
Build costs
- Thread starter Redbowties88
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Your right it was 3 years ago i made them, i forgot it was infact that long ago, 2008 seems like yesterday. The whole design was some ideas i put together, based on our cummins projects.
No i just take credit for the one's i DID design and have made...i mean they have been on every forum since the first of 2008, where have you been....
It's pretty easy to tell these scoffers that you're King of Duramaxes:
What is the bowl volume?
Ring thickness and height from deck?
Alloy?
Just pull your drawing and look at the dims and bill of materials.
Anyone can see that those are skirt coated, no lip diesel pistons (that's 5 years old or older), but let's hear about your UberDesign.
Where has Tom been? Uh... You're kinda new, eh? He's been around a long time.
Pat have to thought of the negitive effects of steel pistons?
Like the lack of ability to disperse heat---once it gets hot it's gonna just get hotter.
Unlike aluminum it wont rid heat near as well.
Besides every internal combustion engine that ever graced bonniville cant be wrong by useing aluminum pistons.....
i just think you had the wrong pistons in your engine, but that just my opinion...
Also the most i saw was 1800* i have since been able to turn up the nitrous and boost some to see a max of 1600 with no IC....
Like the lack of ability to disperse heat---once it gets hot it's gonna just get hotter.
Unlike aluminum it wont rid heat near as well.
Besides every internal combustion engine that ever graced bonniville cant be wrong by useing aluminum pistons.....
i just think you had the wrong pistons in your engine, but that just my opinion...
Also the most i saw was 1800* i have since been able to turn up the nitrous and boost some to see a max of 1600 with no IC....
The J&E pistons I posted dont look like the Arias pistons you posted.The bowl on the J&E is nice and biggier and smoothed out to keep hot spots out. Do you have links to were you posted pics of these around 3 years ago should of been around 2007.
Too the naked eye thats what it seems but the bore i have is much bigger than the one they have pictured, so with the same bowl the added bore gives more material around the edges..
Again the JE is nice, it's just funny how 4 months after i post pics of mine greg get JE to make some almost identicle to mine...thats all im sayin..
But thats the way it is, no hard feelings.
all i know is my junk works....:woott:
I took those pic's at SEMA in Vegas this year thats my big hands holding them lol.
What size bore are you running Stock bore and stroke is fine with me or if its what I was reading using a Hemi style rod and having the crank ground and ending up with a 427 with the J&E piston in it.
1600° at the eighth is certainly impressive. Perhaps turning off the intake pre-heater might help.
So you're saying the Mormon Missile wouldn't have lost pistons if they had just listened to you?
I'm pretty sure GM could dissolve their service depts nationwide if they would simply listen to experts such as yourself.
No, thats not what i said, attribute the low-ish temps to Johnboy's tuning and the matching of the parts combo.
Bit i think that i can make a few adjustment with the nitrous and turbo's and be closer to 1400ish..
I think Wade must have Velcro skin, he swoops in on a tread and everything sticks to him.
I read this entire thread and getting back to the original thread topic on build costs, I totally agree it depends on what you are after, and if you can or want to do any of your own work, (I for one hate wrenching). I have never skimped on a build, tried to get the best parts available and use the best builder/s that were known at the time. We have one great year with our truck and one totally shitty year. Never had much engine problems but did most everything else. I totally agree that the machine shop is one of the most important pieces. I don't agree that they have to have a lot of dmax experience, but they should have a lot of race engine experience.
I really like Matt's (camomax's) approach, run the crap out of a stocker with spray put in another when it blows. That is probably the most bang for the buck.:thumb:
If you guys are like most you will never be satisfied with the power you are making and will want to turn it up. All engines will break, not if but when. I think the big advantage we have now over say 5 years ago is tuning, all the stacking of boxes was like playing Russian roulette IMO. Bigger injectors and less timing goes a long way in keeping a higher hp engine alive.
I for one applaud Trent for showing it can be done for less.:thumb: These damn things are way more expensive then they should be.
Shit Stick is a western version of Wade on speed, except Wade knows more. I take 1/2 of what Shit Stick says and toss it out, other half is still 90% BS.:screwy: Take the squeeze away from Shit Stick and he has a nice 11.90 index truck. Says he's got a killer drag truck for 2011. Hope he makes it to Phoenix as he says he's going to. He does use a good machine shop however.
I read this entire thread and getting back to the original thread topic on build costs, I totally agree it depends on what you are after, and if you can or want to do any of your own work, (I for one hate wrenching). I have never skimped on a build, tried to get the best parts available and use the best builder/s that were known at the time. We have one great year with our truck and one totally shitty year. Never had much engine problems but did most everything else. I totally agree that the machine shop is one of the most important pieces. I don't agree that they have to have a lot of dmax experience, but they should have a lot of race engine experience.
I really like Matt's (camomax's) approach, run the crap out of a stocker with spray put in another when it blows. That is probably the most bang for the buck.:thumb:
If you guys are like most you will never be satisfied with the power you are making and will want to turn it up. All engines will break, not if but when. I think the big advantage we have now over say 5 years ago is tuning, all the stacking of boxes was like playing Russian roulette IMO. Bigger injectors and less timing goes a long way in keeping a higher hp engine alive.
I for one applaud Trent for showing it can be done for less.:thumb: These damn things are way more expensive then they should be.
Shit Stick is a western version of Wade on speed, except Wade knows more. I take 1/2 of what Shit Stick says and toss it out, other half is still 90% BS.:screwy: Take the squeeze away from Shit Stick and he has a nice 11.90 index truck. Says he's got a killer drag truck for 2011. Hope he makes it to Phoenix as he says he's going to. He does use a good machine shop however.
I for one applaud Trent for showing it can be done for less.:thumb: These damn things are way more expensive then they should be.
Agreed!! :thumb:
Agreed!! :thumb:
Wade
Did you get made out to look like a tool on CompD??? I see your back here now that they ALL called you out. Back on topic. There is many good post here to read, read them and then make a educated plan on what YOU want and need. There is many ways to skin a cat. Jeff
Did you get made out to look like a tool on CompD??? I see your back here now that they ALL called you out. Back on topic. There is many good post here to read, read them and then make a educated plan on what YOU want and need. There is many ways to skin a cat. Jeff
What's everyones thoughts on running stock, uncut LB7/LLY pistons as opposed to cut/coated? I see that camomax is doing that, and I know I've read about others doing it as well.
Any reason to think they may be a better option in a daily driven high hp truck?
Any reason to think they may be a better option in a daily driven high hp truck?
The problem with uncut LLY/LB7 pistons, is:
Compression is a bit higher than necessary, higher headgasket risk.
Lip melts early at high boost
Most cracks start at that lip
That being said, as far as HP goes, you're not going to see a performance gain by cutting.
For up to 700rwhp, I doubt lipped pistons are a problem.
But you are going to replace the rods anyhow, and cutting pistons is cheap. Buy a little insurance IMO.
Compression is a bit higher than necessary, higher headgasket risk.
Lip melts early at high boost
Most cracks start at that lip
That being said, as far as HP goes, you're not going to see a performance gain by cutting.
For up to 700rwhp, I doubt lipped pistons are a problem.
But you are going to replace the rods anyhow, and cutting pistons is cheap. Buy a little insurance IMO.
Wade knows what he reads on the internet, and what info others tell him.
Dmitri is a young man who has spent a lot of time wrenching on his truck, and has paid his dues. Love him or hate him, he's done the legwork that Wade never really did, except in InterwebbyTalk.
But more importantly, "Dial It Up Til' It Blows" is not a good path. I've watched the parade, and it's really screwed a lot of Dmax hotrodders, especially when it's their only transportation. And it often oils down the track, and it can turn your truck into a fireball.
Readers, most (not all) of you are going to be safe up to 600HP with the factory engine. Many of you (not most), will make it to 700. Very few if any will survive 750+ on stock internals. If you know you're going to go past 600HP, it will actually save you money and grief to get a minimum of rods. If you want 750+ HP, you should have a second engine sitting in your garage or other transportation.
I think you and I will have to agree to disagree on that one. Wrenching yes, most monkeys can do that, things he takes credit for that he didn't get from others. NO. He is the king of the NOS you can't take that away from him.:happy2::happy2: There Shit Stick just so you know I still love you.:thumb:
