Any billet cranks in DD'ers?
- Thread starter Al's max
- Start date
Einstein, I believe.
Has banks never broke one with a fluid damper? Seems odd with as much testing they do.
Pretty sure that it won't be interchangeable into our older BLocks so it's not probably going to be an option for us. Time will tell but with the rear reluctor wheel it doesn't look good. The design of it is definitely better and regardless of GM officially coming out and saying they have an issue or not the L5P speaks volumes!
Oh cmon Mark, I have faith that someone smart will think of a way to use a front reluctor. The Dmax community has solved every other flaw the Duramax has had. Well....except for LB7 injectors. 
The L5P crank modifications are definitely a step in the right direction as to rectifying the crank issue imo. Time will tell if I'm right.
As far as the a/f cam goes I have yet to hear of an engine balanced with a new lml and and an a/f cam that is at normal person street hp breaking. A few with used cranks that broke, same for 750hp plus that have broke with this configuration, but no new. I still feel for the average Joe this is the best combo. If your looking to run more hp daily, then I would look at that wagler assembly Brett posted the link to.
As far as the a/f cam goes I have yet to hear of an engine balanced with a new lml and and an a/f cam that is at normal person street hp breaking. A few with used cranks that broke, same for 750hp plus that have broke with this configuration, but no new. I still feel for the average Joe this is the best combo. If your looking to run more hp daily, then I would look at that wagler assembly Brett posted the link to.
I know I get flamed for this, but it's true. Ngm built a crank like this back in 2012 with winburg , standard camshaft fire order, still in service today.
The crank had smaller pin width which added counterweight mass and needed modified duramax rods or a typical gas rod.
Why does everyone keep saying that billet cranks are so expensive? the average person can't afford them? . Let's put this in prospective you will spend 15k-20k to build your engine and imo the most important part is the crank and block they are the foundation. Blocks don't seem to be much of a problem but cranks are so spending another 3.5k-5k to help protect my 20k investment doesn't seem like that much of a decision. I am just a averase Joe with a average income but will be putting a billet crank next time I build my engine. Just my 2 cents
Because billet has broken also. So it's not insurance by any means. At least not for the average 5-600hp dd.
And most people's budgets don't allow for 3+ extra. Mine cost about 12g and I shorted my build on new injectors and a built trans because the money wasn't there.
Like mark said earlier in this thread, that's on stock configuration crankshafts, the narrower rod journals seem to be the answer! It's a completely different approach now correct me if I'm wrong but I do not believe a crankshaft of this configuration has broke to anyone's knowledge yet.
He said it was a new LML crank and alt fire cam at the time of the build, in another thread.
Both version's are still available. And the latest costs even more because I believe you need matching rods for the narrow journals.
Not a budget piece imo.