Any billet cranks in DD'ers?
- Thread starter Al's max
- Start date
I'm putting an lml crank in my lbz. I talked with guy at SoCal and he had me go with an lb7/lly/lml flywheel and a lb7 damper. Said it would be the closest for balancing.
From what I've read. They're supposed to be harder material then the lbz and lmm crank. Similar to an lb7 crank but a cheaper price. S Phinney knows more about all that.
I toured the Callies facility and saw the first run of these cranks in several stages of production. Really nice workmanship by a company that also manufactures cranks for some leading marine engine builders. Stuff built to spin upwards of 13-2000hp for hours on end.
I opted for the internal balanced version, felt price was reasonable. However as mentioned above, the main issue goes back to original GM design. The narrowed rod journals add some meat in the overlap area, but when pushing double or triple stock power, it's all just a crap shoot if they hold up or not...
I opted for the internal balanced version, felt price was reasonable. However as mentioned above, the main issue goes back to original GM design. The narrowed rod journals add some meat in the overlap area, but when pushing double or triple stock power, it's all just a crap shoot if they hold up or not...
Guy can't account for every single crank made and by no means can it be a definitive answer to be better. It's like testing the strength of stock Allison shafts on what ones had the hardening treatment done all the way through vs others. There will be harder lmm cranks than others, same with lbz and so on. You don't know what your Getting when you buy one off the shelf.
Even if they are a different metallurgy, they clearly were not the answer to the crank break issue.
My 2016 race engine Wagler built had a Callies crank in it. It's back at Wagler's get torn down and the crank is going back to Callies so they can check it over and make sure its as good as they say it is. This engine ran all year between 1500-1700+hp!!
I never said it was a definite answer to better. For a stock crank it's the best option for the money. The only way to fix the crank breakage is aftermarket cranks like the Callie versions and for that matter any particular part can break period. Nothing is 100 percent fail proof.
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Never said you did say that. Only reiterating a point because we all know how quickly things can get turned around.
I do agree the Callie's style crank is the best bet to stop the issue until we see if the new l5p crank can prove its self as well.
I wasn't saying it was the answer either just the best option for the money when you can't afford a billet crank. Honestly I'm not sure a billet crank you can say is the answer either because some of them have broke. Now will they give you a longer life? Yes I'm sure they will! Everybody is sayin the l5p is the fix but we don't know that yet. Hell we don't even know if they are even compatible with our engines. I think there's a whole lot more to it then trying to solve it with just a crank.
I think GM engineers lurk around these forums more than we know. Just looking at the oiling and cooling upgrades to the LML alone tells me they've been reading posts... So hopefully they tackled these crank issues this go round.
I do agree that they have been listening. It's a shame it took 15 years to see a move in that direction.
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For your power goals I'd feel safe on stock, keyed crank.
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In my truck, just one. It's that old saying if you continue to do the same thing over and over again thinking you will get a different result...well that is the definition of insanity! Banks thinks fluid dampeners but I've seen plenty of them broken with one so that's not the fix either. It's a design flaw and time will tell if the Callie's or Bryant or Wynberg will prove to be a better choice.:thumb: