not to answer for adam but he saw 10-12 in the dmax loaded. unloaded was a very rare instance for him
Ovals 10-11
OEM 11-12
On the few long runs empty home Id see about 1mpg above loaded...
Bobtail.. 16-17 regardless of piston bowl design
99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build
- Thread starter malibu795
- Start date
Ovals 10-11
OEM 11-12
On the few long runs empty home Id see about 1mpg above loaded...
Bobtail.. 16-17 regardless of piston bowl design
4 fillups so far... 1-3 tanks at low 8mpg, #4 at low/mid 10mpg.. kinda baffled by that see how it plays out..
Measured the frame hieghts over axle.. front 36" rear 33" going to have to fix that
Second load picked up/Delivered
Measured the frame hieghts over axle.. front 36" rear 33" going to have to fix that
Second load picked up/Delivered
Maybe she just needs to be run a little and loosened up.
As for the frame loaded vs unloaded, are you running rear air suspension? Nice looking setup. Any plans on painting it? PPG used to make a color called Lemon Ice. One of the brightest yellows I have ever seen. Guy I worked for did a custom paint job for his brother and mixed it with Hot Lick Hot Red. Total number of paint mixes was 9. Mixed one inch of paint total each time. Fist one solid yellow where he started on the roof. Next one 7/8" yellow, 1/8" red and made 2 passes around the truck starting the fade. Last one was solid red. Add a pearl flame job to the front and that would be one HOT looking HOT SHOT truck. :thumb:
As for the frame loaded vs unloaded, are you running rear air suspension? Nice looking setup. Any plans on painting it? PPG used to make a color called Lemon Ice. One of the brightest yellows I have ever seen. Guy I worked for did a custom paint job for his brother and mixed it with Hot Lick Hot Red. Total number of paint mixes was 9. Mixed one inch of paint total each time. Fist one solid yellow where he started on the roof. Next one 7/8" yellow, 1/8" red and made 2 passes around the truck starting the fade. Last one was solid red. Add a pearl flame job to the front and that would be one HOT looking HOT SHOT truck. :thumb:
Someone lifted the front if the truck.. there's 3 extra springs cut by a oxcyfuel torch no clue how think the OEM blocks are supposed to be.....
Just more little surprises..
Sounds s "loud" truck :thumb:
Thinking deep emerald/forest green and black two tone split on the body lines
Just more little surprises..
Sounds s "loud" truck :thumb:
Thinking deep emerald/forest green and black two tone split on the body lines
Well got 10k on it... Last week had first lows in single digits where it sat.. pretty sure block heater Doesn't work... She turned over slowly but definitely needed a jump to start.. no either was needed.. there is not grid heater or glow plugs on this Engine...
Got the two batteries tested... Both 31group 950cca, one was dead the other was dieing.. replaced both with 1150cca version.. like to get 3 1150cca in but will need some fabrication to do so.
Ran new 3/0 cables for both +/- cables while Engine was out... Fwiw bat cables on Dmax is 4ga
Been avg 8.3-8.5mpg, had couple tanks low 9mpg and one 10.3 and one 7.9
Been trying to get a game plan for the pump.. CDS has 8.3 12m pumps for 1300 with auto style DV vs the constant pressure DV I have.. which would net more fuel flow..
The 362/68 should've been at minimum 362/74, even with the adj waste gate backed off 5-6 psi to ~25 from the ~30psi I got in stock setup...it still pushed past 1200° on long grades seen 1350°
Been eyeballing 463/83 .9 T4, been warned the 35+ psi can lift heads with stock Head bolts... Don't need to test that warning
Working at n little stuff.... Mainly trying to get some cash stacked back up
Got the two batteries tested... Both 31group 950cca, one was dead the other was dieing.. replaced both with 1150cca version.. like to get 3 1150cca in but will need some fabrication to do so.
Ran new 3/0 cables for both +/- cables while Engine was out... Fwiw bat cables on Dmax is 4ga
Been avg 8.3-8.5mpg, had couple tanks low 9mpg and one 10.3 and one 7.9
Been trying to get a game plan for the pump.. CDS has 8.3 12m pumps for 1300 with auto style DV vs the constant pressure DV I have.. which would net more fuel flow..
The 362/68 should've been at minimum 362/74, even with the adj waste gate backed off 5-6 psi to ~25 from the ~30psi I got in stock setup...it still pushed past 1200° on long grades seen 1350°
Been eyeballing 463/83 .9 T4, been warned the 35+ psi can lift heads with stock Head bolts... Don't need to test that warning
Working at n little stuff.... Mainly trying to get some cash stacked back up
Replaced the engine to frame, braided ground strap of who knows what size with remaining 3/0 cable I have..
Engine cranks faster.. also pull starter number off it.. starter has some battle wounds...
It's a delce Remy Part No. 1993928 — 37MT New Starter
Which is obsolete
Go through application search... Delco remy recommends 8200433 — 39MT New Starter
37MT is 4.6KW@12v
39MT is 7.3KW@12v
Update the starter... Probably crank better/faster in all conditions
Engine cranks faster.. also pull starter number off it.. starter has some battle wounds...
It's a delce Remy Part No. 1993928 — 37MT New Starter
Which is obsolete
Go through application search... Delco remy recommends 8200433 — 39MT New Starter
37MT is 4.6KW@12v
39MT is 7.3KW@12v
Update the starter... Probably crank better/faster in all conditions
From a quick search the 37MT looks to be a direct drive where the 39MT looks to be a gear reduction starter.
The 39MT will probably be a better starter as it will have more torque due to the gearing. Looks like the 39MT is 20 lbs lighter.
The 39MT also looks like it is dual voltage.
The 39MT will probably be a better starter as it will have more torque due to the gearing. Looks like the 39MT is 20 lbs lighter.
The 39MT also looks like it is dual voltage.
Increased voltage = less amp draw on the batteries. And I agree keep it simple unless you need the extra torque from going 24v.
$300.00 is less headache...for current technology starter is alot less headache than dual voltage vehicle
7.3kw / 12v = 608 amps / 2x batteries in parallel = 304 amps from each battery
7.3kw / 24v = 304 amps / 2x batteries in series = 304 amps from each battery
Only real benefit is you can use smaller gauge wire for the 24v setup
And, on the 24v setup, if one battery takes a s#it it wont bring down the other battery but it will prevent the whole system from working at full potential. On the 12v setup, one dead battery will likely kill the second
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"needs" alot of stuff Dale lol
Be adding grid heaters of the 24V 8.3s or at least trying too among other stuff
Be adding grid heaters of the 24V 8.3s or at least trying too among other stuff
Started died... So new 39MT starter... Definetly spins over faster and Doesn't sound like it's struggling when cold
I took an in-house loan out to get me the home stretch and up and running.. last payment was this check I received Friday..
So I really haven't had any extra money to re-adjust my blind shot in the dark and fire again..
The bigger turbo I put on is too small,
Plan is
Swapped from a 362/68 to a 363/74
I have talked to Joe @hsp about doing a 464/82 with an external gate, the concern I have right now is I don't have the fuel to spin a s400 charger..
The p-pumped is getting replaced with a 12m with common style DV 181/191 vs mine has constant pressure.. should be able to flow substantually more and better tunability along with 4k GSK set for full fuel to 2600rpm currently starts pulling fuel about 1800
New core is $1300.
Then install the 5*.014 injector I have.
Alternator/starter/batteries have all died and been replaced since I got it up and running.
It's solidly in the mid 8s for mpg have seen 9.5-10.5 couple times..
Diesel is pushing 3.50 or better here in the in the Midwest...
On a 2500 mile week avg
8mpg is ~300 gallons
10mpg is 250g
12mpg is ~200g
Multiple by say 50 weeks that's alot of money I'm leaving on the table...
Pretty sure once I get the engine timing good pump, right turbo, MPG will come up..
EGTs get warm quick @50°.... been grade speed limited by egts.... Probably be nuts come humid 90s in the summer..
Plan new CAC/radiator this spring along with AC condenser/pump/receiver/lines etc
Insulation/sound deadening/weather stripping needs done but I don't have a heated shop...
Edit
Found the OEM turning spec for a 430 hp 8.3 I pulled a H1C off
3802886 cummins #
H2d holset
Turbine Ind. 86. mm, Exd. 77. mm, 11 Blades
Compressor Ind. 64. mm, Exd. 94. mm, 7+7 Blades
Compared to s362/68
62/84
76/68
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The money you are/have spent in mods can buy a lot of diesel. I understand you may put enough miles on to justify it but most people when rationalizing their mods for mpg will never come out ahead...
geneally speaking i agree.
really depends on how many miles and how long you plan on keeping said vehicle, obviously, putting 100-120K miles down a year. my ROI will come much sooner, the higher diesel goes the faster my ROI happens. i plan on keeping this for at least 5 years
person that puts 20-30k on it over time he owns it say few years, naturally wont come out ahead.
for me saving ~100 gallons of diesel a week for 50 weeks at 3.50 a gallon is ~$17,500 dollars still in my pocket, that's pretty decent chunk of change especially for a business the does 150-200k year before expenses
the parts im using are while arent "cheap" they are substantually cheaper than most stuff on newer engines.
then theres the good stewart philasophy