Oil choices for built engines

[bullfrogjohnson]

This is not something you here alot of people talk about. What are guys doing for engine oil after these high dollar engine builds? With these motors built with looser tolerances for more rpm and etc... What is everyones oil choice?

I have seen and heard things good and bad about all engine oils. People say that full synthetic will not stand up to harsh abuse of a built motor which I have seen first hand. People say that rotella will not hold up but then some people swear by it. There must be a dozen other 15w engine oils for our trucks that I dont know anything about. So which one is everyone using?

Also when does changing oil weight come into play. With increased tolerances in the motor should the oil weight not go up also? I have heard that Scheid runs 50w mixed with lucas oil stabilizer in there pulling trucks and it gets changed every 3 pulls.

Then another topic is how often is the oils getting changed? I think Steve (freightrain) changed his oil after every pull, and look at how well his motor lived.

Sorry for the rant just thinking about meticulous stuff that no one ever talks about.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Not a diesel but, we ran 50w or 60w Valvoline VR-1 race oil in our pro-mod. Changed it prolly every 2-3 runs. That engine must not be lugged down below 6K rpm or it eats parts cause the engines design is as a "floater". It runs 90 psi at idle and up to 190-200 @ WOT! That is some tough conventional oil! Our competition uses it too and hes a regular divisonal points leader/record holder. I have used that oil in my d-max with no issues while fighting diesel in the oil, holds up well to dilution. I suspect it would be great in highly modded engines, IMO

 

[malibu795]

Not a diesel but, we ran 50w or 60w Valvoline VR-1 race oil in our pro-mod. Changed it prolly every 2-3 runs. That engine must not be lugged down below 6K rpm or it eats parts cause the engines design is as a "floater". It runs 90 psi at idle and up to 190-200 @ WOT! That is some tough conventional oil! Our competition uses it too and hes a regular divisonal points leader/record holder. I have used that oil in my d-max with no issues while fighting diesel in the oil, holds up well to dilution. I suspect it would be great in highly modded engines, IMO

that is something that i woudl seriously look into especially with the LB7.
fuel delution was the main reason i lost my block then crank... 1 part oil 2 parts fuel and im sure coolent helped it along as welll

5% fuel dilution is the norm max

how much does it run mouse?

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

Mouse, so your running 50W in your truck with good results. This is great info to know

 

[sweetdiesel]

Ya i was thinking a straight 40w would be good 50 may be even better

 

[Jared Duramax]

interesting topic i am now in the market for new oil because of the changes Rotella made. since my truck is worked very hard everyday and i am wondering if 50w is better. i guess it is something to think about.:dontknow:

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Yup, 50w VR-1 in there right now! I cant remember how much the stuff costs, got a bunch for the pro-mod and since were not racing, i fugured what the hell, why not! I honestly love the stuff, as may times as i've dumped diesel in the oil (and in large amounts multiple times while driving hard!) I honestly think it has been my saving grace, well the FS-2500 too! I've had over a gallon of diesel in the oil a few times ( I know shame on me!) and she still runs like a top. If it ever lets go it will be from too much power on stock stuff, not my oil issues IMO. I don't bother with oil analisis, i go with what i see,feel, and hear on mine, and it is a little quieter with the heavy oil in it. I just checked to make sure and i'm actually running our VR-1 60w in there now, also with no issues! I have a $120+ dollar case of New CJ-4 Amsoil for the new trucks that i was going to switch too but i still haven't. :angel:

 

[02freighttrain]

I'll leave the oil stuff to the people who make it. They make oil for all the diesels running around the world.
If there was a problem with oil not doing it's job, we would have heard about it.
I run 15-40 Rotella...work's (d) for me. Change it often. Oil is cheap, parts are not.
Is a straight weight oil better? Couldm't tell you..............

 

[turk walker]

just got done rebuilding my engine,due to head gasket failure.
Have been running rotella 15-40 since day one changing every 5000 miles currently I have 151,000. Engine looked perfect inside and cross hatches were still visible.
So why change? I'm going to continue running the cheap stuff.

 

[The Neens]

just got done rebuilding my engine,due to head gasket failure.
Have been running rotella 15-40 since day one changing every 5000 miles currently I have 151,000. Engine looked perfect inside and cross hatches were still visible.
So why change? I'm going to continue running the cheap stuff.

Thanks for the info Tom...Good to see you here...

 

[LarryJewell]

I've run Delo most of the time, Delavac "synthetic" blows the dipstick, more than once, I have had Rotella in for the last 3 changes and all is ok, dipstick is staying put, but ECT seems to run a few degrees higher. Nearly 100,000 miles on the motor.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

167,000 miles of use on mine! And i giver hell too!

 

[dmaxlover]

I run amsoil 15-40 full synthetic in my puller, with an amsoil EAO filter. I change it out once a year, but now it's almost strictly a pulling truck so it doesn't see very many miles, but it sees at least 20 hooks a season.

 

[NWTDIESEL]

Rotella 5w-40 synthetic in mine with Baldwin filter. Change it every 3,000 miles. I have 191,000 miles and 600rwhp.

 

[Diesel power]

piston to wall clearance, ring end gap, bearing clearances,valve train type, piston type, RPM and oil psi should all play a big role in what oil you put in a "race" motor. i would definatly not use regular oil in any one of my race engines, amsoil or redline is all i have ever trusted.

 

[sweetdiesel]

piston to wall clearance, ring end gap, bearing clearances,valve train type, piston type, RPM and oil psi should all play a big role in what oil you put in a "race" motor. i would definatly not use regular oil in any one of my race engines, amsoil or redline is all i have ever trusted.

Amsoil.... what flavor?

and how would someone go about figuring out the best oil with a race engine?

 

[Diesel power]

Amsoil.... what flavor?

and how would someone go about figuring out the best oil with a race engine?

personally i have my own science to building my motors, and it's working well.

if you have a builder build you one he/she should tell you what grade,type and brand of oil they will stand behind.

personally i have never seen a need to go beyond a amsoil/ redline 15-40 weight for a diesel, unless you run tighter clearences, then we look into a 5-30HD from amsoil. gas engines are built quite different and ive talked to builders that reccomend viscosity ranging from 0-20 up to straight 60w.

in short words:
typically sled pulling requires more clearence in the motor and thicker oil.
drag not as much clearance as pulling but(sometimes tighter than stock) so a thinner oil would be needed. but like i said before there is a lot of factoring that goes into a race engine, why should your oil be any different?

 

[sweetdiesel]

personally i have my own science to building my motors, and it's working well.

if you have a builder build you one he/she should tell you what grade,type and brand of oil they will stand behind.

personally i have never seen a need to go beyond a amsoil/ redline 15-40 weight for a diesel, unless you run tighter clearences, then we look into a 5-30HD from amsoil. gas engines are built quite different and ive talked to builders that reccomend viscosity ranging from 0-20 up to straight 60w.

in short words:
typically sled pulling requires more clearence in the motor and thicker oil.
drag not as much clearance as pulling but(sometimes tighter than stock) so a thinner oil would be needed. but like i said before there is a lot of factoring that goes into a race engine, why should your oil be any different?

I am the builder:rofl:

But thanks for the reply

 

[LarryJewell]

I am the builder:rofl:

But thanks for the reply

what oil choice did your builder decide on

 

[eds04max]

I've been doing some inquiring into this and I think I've got the right answer.............I'll report back in about 200,000 mi.!!

Seriously, my sources tell me that synthetic is a bad idea for those of us with 'big' power.
15-40 is a given here in our climate.
The key is to shorten the service interval, as prev. mentioned.