LB7: Intake Bridge, intercooler tubes and boots

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Big Willy

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May 6, 2009
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I'm not sure, I haven't pulled it off yet since I don't have a replacement yet. Ill try and be tender when I'm taking it out so I can hopefully reuse them.

Do I need to use any sort of sealant or anything with these or the gaskets for the intake bridge?
 
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Cougar281

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2006
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St Louis, MO
ripmf666 said:
97365039 list pice is 146.81 my cost was 110.11 back on feb 23rd
97363570 is the bridge gaskets 8.97 list ea my cost 6.73 ea

When we replace the hack job on my turbo inlet, I will have this in place of it and also were making driver and pass side 3" intercooler pipes.But were going to bring it 3" out of the bridge.I need to find 2 junk heads to play with,going to make a sheetmetal manifolds and bridge.
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Would you happen to have a part number for the intake tube that bolts to the bridge, and is the piping the same from the Heater to te CAC as a LBZ?
 
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ripmf666

ripmf666

Active member
Sep 20, 2006
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do you have a pic of what your wanting? The way i read it you want it for the van style or the stock LBZ bridge and the gride heater?
 
C

Cougar281

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2006
1,755
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St Louis, MO
ripmf666 said:
do you have a pic of what your wanting? The way i read it you want it for the van style or the stock LBZ bridge and the gride heater?
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Never mind; I was referring to the tube that bolts to the top of the van intake bridge and connects to the EGR and intake heater, but in looking at what I can find on it (mostly in service docs you've posted) and compared that to the truck, I don't think it would work on a truck. I think best bet is the van bridge and fabbing something to connect to it, sorta like PPE's intake.
 
othrgrl

othrgrl

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Mar 10, 2008
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I'm welding this into the front of the truck LBZ Y-bridge. Then using one of these to get from from the Banks 3" boost tubes I ordered to the turbo and the Y-bridge. For the intake I'm coming off the S&B LBZ intake box with a 6" ID 90* elbow, to an aluminum 6" OD 45* bend to get over the valve cover to the 6" to 5.5" ID 90" elbow attached to the turbo.

We'll see if it all comes together the way it does in my head. The Y-bridge and silicone tube should work out fine. Lucky for me Super Diesel and sweetdiesel have a good bit of pics of under their hoods so that I could work out the angles I would need. No more O-rings in the Y-bridge, I plan to bolt the Y-bridge to the runners before bolting them on the heads so that I can get to the bottom bolts in the front.
 
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JoshH

JoshH

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othrgrl said:
I plan to bolt the Y-bridge to the runners before bolting them on the heads so that I can get to the bottom bolts in the front.
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Just so you know, there are some bolts inside the runners that bolt the runners to the head. You can only get to them with the bridge out of the way.
 
ripmf666

ripmf666

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Sep 20, 2006
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othrgrl said:
I'm welding this into the front of the truck LBZ Y-bridge. Then using one of these to get from from the Banks 3" boost tubes I ordered to the turbo and the Y-bridge. For the intake I'm coming off the S&B LBZ intake box with a 6" ID 90* elbow, to an aluminum 6" OD 45* bend to get over the valve cover to the 6" to 5.5" ID 90" elbow attached to the turbo.

We'll see if it all comes together the way it does in my head. The Y-bridge and silicone tube should work out fine. Lucky for me Super Diesel and sweetdiesel have a good bit of pics of under their hoods so that I could work out the angles I would need. No more O-rings in the Y-bridge, I plan to bolt the Y-bridge to the runners before bolting them on the heads so that I can get to the bottom bolts in the front.
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You can get both items from one or the other no since in 2 orders verociousmotorsports is 18 mins from me.and MBS is 50 mins away.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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Aug 28, 2006
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JoshH said:
Just so you know, there are some bolts inside the runners that bolt the runners to the head. You can only get to them with the bridge out of the way.
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x2...

I was going to do something similar to dustin's idea, but it wont work because either way you do it, there will be some bolts that will be impossible to tighten.

ben
 
othrgrl

othrgrl

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Mar 10, 2008
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ripmf666 said:
You can get both items from one or the other no since in 2 orders verociousmotorsports is 18 mins from me.and MBS is 50 mins away.
Click to expand...

Wish that either place would list everything on their sites then - I ordered it seperate and then ordered the rubber elbows for the intake somewhere else, and the 6" aluminum 45* mandrel from another place.:(

JoshH said:
Just so you know, there are some bolts inside the runners that bolt the runners to the head. You can only get to them with the bridge out of the way.
Click to expand...

I thought about that yesterday while I was measuring and mocking things up then came in here and forgot about it. Went back out and looked at it and if I start bolts in the lower front locations of the Y-bridge, then slip it down in there, and tighten all the other bolts and nuts I should be able to get something on those front bolts, even with the elbow in the way. Crow's foot on an extension, cut and weld a wrench at the right angle, whatever it takes. At least the engine will be out of the truck with the turbo and pedestal out of the way - so I can get to it (or try) from any angle.
 
othrgrl

othrgrl

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The elbow will clear it fine when I'm done with it. I will cut most of the leg off the end that gets welded to the Y-bridge to keep it close to the bridge. I was mocking everything up on my blown motor and had the CP3 bolted up for reference - there is a decent bit of room between the stock piece that goes into the Y-bridge and the back of the CP3. It is 1.25" from the front of the Y-bridge and the top of the CP3 gearbox only comes up 1" higher than the bottom of the Y-bridge opening. I'll take pictures as I put it all together.
 
JoshH

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Cool. I'd like to see what you come up with. Sounds interesting.
 
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