Fuel Cell Installed

PACougar

Active member
Jun 27, 2012
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El Dorado Hills, Ca
So, I decided to spend my entire weekend installing a whole new fuel system. After 20 hours and a very sore back this is what I ended up with. The entire feed from the cell to the cp3's through the lift pump is -10 and the entire return is -8. I may add a fan to the new fuel cooler later on but I doubt it'll need it, it's a freaking beast. All that's left is updating the tune to work with the new sender unit.

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OregonDMAX

NOT IN OREGON, NO DURAMAX
Apr 28, 2013
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awesome job, looks great. did you happen to weigh the old tank and that monster tire carrier crossmember to see if you lost weight?
 

PACougar

Active member
Jun 27, 2012
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El Dorado Hills, Ca
awesome job, looks great. did you happen to weigh the old tank and that monster tire carrier crossmember to see if you lost weight?

I know I lost some weight, the crossmember was at least 50 lbs and the old tank was pretty close to that as well. Plus I removed some other odds and ends. I wouldn't say it removed a ton of weight, but I definitely have everything sitting over the axle:) The sad part is I need to lower the back of my truck again because everytime I pull something out it get's a little taller. I think I'm going to extend the shackles so I can get another 1.5" of drop.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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It looks good. It's hard to tell from the pictures if the fuel cell hangs down below the bottom of the bed, but the NHRA does have rules about that. I just don't want you to run into any problems.

When used, fuel cells must have a metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body lines or trunk floor, excluding hose connection area in rear. The metal box must be constructed of minimum .024 steel or .032 aluminum.
 

PACougar

Active member
Jun 27, 2012
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El Dorado Hills, Ca
It looks good. It's hard to tell from the pictures if the fuel cell hangs down below the bottom of the bed, but the NHRA does have rules about that. I just don't want you to run into any problems.

Thanks Josh, it doesn't hang below the sides of the bed. However I don't plan on running at any NHRA events and Sac Raceway will let me run however I want :)
 

ikeG

Oughta Know Better
Apr 19, 2011
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I know I lost some weight, the crossmember was at least 50 lbs and the old tank was pretty close to that as well.

FWI, that crossmember weighs 38 lbs without the spare tire hanger in it. The stock long bed fuel tank weighs 40lbs with sending unit and a splash of fuel in it.

Adam, what did you do with returns? Like what size line and also, what did you do with the lift pump return? I suppose you just kept it in the filler neck? I will have no fill neck on mine, so I am wondering if you can just tie it into the engine return line.
 

dracing70

SH--- GETTING EXPENSIVE!
Jun 12, 2007
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mantua, oh
FWI, that crossmember weighs 38 lbs without the spare tire hanger in it. The stock long bed fuel tank weighs 40lbs with sending unit and a splash of fuel in it.

Adam, what did you do with returns? Like what size line and also, what did you do with the lift pump return? I suppose you just kept it in the filler neck? I will have no fill neck on mine, so I am wondering if you can just tie it into the engine return line.

im having the same issue so im either going to attempt to use the vent as a the lift pump return or in theory if you tee into the supply with the return it should work great. I think im going to try the second option and use two supply lines and route the return to the return leave the vent open and tee the lift pump return into one of the supplies. all 8an fittings and hose
 

ikeG

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Apr 19, 2011
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Next question is, how do you convert the factory return line to rubber hose? It would be slick if they made a OEM-style fitting that connects up at return block above driver's valve cover and converted to hose. Maybe they do?
 

PACougar

Active member
Jun 27, 2012
2,105
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El Dorado Hills, Ca
FWI, that crossmember weighs 38 lbs without the spare tire hanger in it. The stock long bed fuel tank weighs 40lbs with sending unit and a splash of fuel in it.

Adam, what did you do with returns? Like what size line and also, what did you do with the lift pump return? I suppose you just kept it in the filler neck? I will have no fill neck on mine, so I am wondering if you can just tie it into the engine return line.

I used -8 lines for the return. I actually kept my filler neck hooked up so I maintained the lift pump return in that. I can't imagine there being a problem hooking the two returns together. Let us know how it works out.

im having the same issue so im either going to attempt to use the vent as a the lift pump return or in theory if you tee into the supply with the return it should work great. I think im going to try the second option and use two supply lines and route the return to the return leave the vent open and tee the lift pump return into one of the supplies. all 8an fittings and hose

You definitely need to have it vented somehow, I capped the vent on the tank and maintained the factory vent through the gas cap. You may have a issue with heat build up in the diesel with the return immediately supplying the feed, but I'm no expert.

Next question is, how do you convert the factory return line to rubber hose? It would be slick if they made a OEM-style fitting that connects up at return block above driver's valve cover and converted to hose. Maybe they do?

For now I cut the factory line at the flexible hose next to the drivers side valve cover and converted from an to a barb fitting. Later on when I have to get into the valley for a better reason I'll fix it up right and get rid of the factory hard line on the engine. They do make conversion fittings for an to gm quick disconnect, but I couldn't find one that fit.
 

dracing70

SH--- GETTING EXPENSIVE!
Jun 12, 2007
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mantua, oh
I have two lift pumps so I need two supply fittings and as far as the heat my return line will flow through my water box so it should be plenty cool before it returns.

I used -8 lines for the return. I actually kept my filler neck hooked up so I maintained the lift pump return in that. I can't imagine there being a problem hooking the two returns together. Let us know how it works out.



You definitely need to have it vented somehow, I capped the vent on the tank and maintained the factory vent through the gas cap. You may have a issue with heat build up in the diesel with the return immediately supplying the feed, but I'm no expert.



For now I cut the factory line at the flexible hose next to the drivers side valve cover and converted from an to a barb fitting. Later on when I have to get into the valley for a better reason I'll fix it up right and get rid of the factory hard line on the engine. They do make conversion fittings for an to gm quick disconnect, but I couldn't find one that fit.
 

dracing70

SH--- GETTING EXPENSIVE!
Jun 12, 2007
1,210
0
36
45
mantua, oh
Next question is, how do you convert the factory return line to rubber hose? It would be slick if they made a OEM-style fitting that connects up at return block above driver's valve cover and converted to hose. Maybe they do?

As far as the fittings summit sells just about every fitting u would need including quick connects however every stock line on my truck has been removed