im like 95% sure all the head studs for these trucks are that way but dont hold me to it. i know the 2000's, a1 h11 and the 625's are.
Twins with Twins, Anyone?
- Thread starter kidturbo
- Start date
Also, i swear i remember seeing tool that you could put in the cylinder bore, snug up and cut an o-ring groove in the block. it was a long time ago and i cant remember if it was on a bare block or what the tool mfg was.
This tool. But its cheaper through many retailers Vs buying direct.
iskycams.com
Groove-O-Matic Tool [200GRM] - $430.00 : ISKY Racing Cams, Do It Right
ISKY Racing Cams Groove-O-Matic Tool [200GRM] - Groove-O-Matic Tool Full-Size V8 With 3 3/4 -4 3/8 Cyl. Bores Incl. Copper Wire/Complete Instructions
Never let loose on me, but I mark and check them afterwards to make sure. I am sure you could use the high strength Loc-Tite if you wanted.
I know they are out there, but haven't looked. I have always made my own. Then again, I own a machine shop.......
This tool. But its cheaper through many retailers Vs buying direct.
Groove-O-Matic Tool [200GRM] - $430.00 : ISKY Racing Cams, Do It Right
ISKY Racing Cams Groove-O-Matic Tool [200GRM] - Groove-O-Matic Tool Full-Size V8 With 3 3/4 -4 3/8 Cyl. Bores Incl. Copper Wire/Complete Instructions
yeah im retarded, thats it. helps if i would have clicked on it before. i was thinking it was for the head, not the block.
ill have to do that. usually takes me all day to do a short block anyhow, studs can go in before i call it for the night.
Yeah that's the tool my buddy said to check out. Was told a local engine builder here has one I can use. To which I said, I'll rent the tool if he comes with it. Or I could dig up a junk block to practice on first..
Back about 70 pages, think we discussed ringing the heads vs the blocks when first changed those LML gaskets. At that time, doing the block was a machine shop job. But now, I'm good with stuffing a rag down the big holes and having a buddy hold the shop vac while I cut em in.
Back about 70 pages, think we discussed ringing the heads vs the blocks when first changed those LML gaskets. At that time, doing the block was a machine shop job. But now, I'm good with stuffing a rag down the big holes and having a buddy hold the shop vac while I cut em in.
Yes you are different.. LOL.
The loc-Tite vs lube approach is a new one for me. Some like dry, some say molly, some motor oil, but this one is new to me. At least we agree on the 1/4 turn. But what do ya do if a stud dose spin in when torquing?
The video and explanation below is kind of long but its real simple to do. About 5 minutes in he gets to setting up the tool to cut to the correct depth.
Basically the tool has pins that stick out of the side and ride on the deck. You place shims under the pins to the deck and tighten the tool up. Then you set the cutter to the block. Remove the shims, then start working the tool around the bore and it will start cutting the deck. It will go all the way down till the pins ride on the deck and you reach the depth you set the cutter to with the shims underneath. It looks like you do this in 2 steps to achieve the desired depth.
You're probably right. Maybe they need back cut further, depending on what shape the bottom hole is in. Sounds to me like the threads are jammed up, not just the stud touching the bottom
Thanks for that link. Looks easy enough.
Until he got to the 9:35 mark, says put the deck level on the stand. My stands don't rotate... LOL. But I don't see why it wouldn't work fine how they sit. Being mindful of the angle. More concerned about the metal shavings generated however. Bet I can tape a good neo-magnet on back side of that blade, and maybe grease the deck down to make this happen with bottom end intact.
Who's with me ??
I was thinking tape off the entire deck surface with good painters tape and cut out around the cyls with a razor blade but I bet James's solution of play-doh would work very well.
I am in.
I don't think it being level is critical as long as your mindful of the tool being used evenly as it goes around the bore And that you get all the way down till it's riding on the pins ensuring the correct depth.
I am thinking you can tape the decks up. Maybe use the play-do like James said in other area's
Dang it. Why didn't I think of that one??just turn the block upside down
Tape job is probably our best option. With some tack-cloth stuffed down each hole being cut. Was actually first material that came to mind watching that demonstration.. All down with cover, cut, clean, repeat. Plus just hooked up the air compressor in the shop. We good.
This is gonna make some great video. One way or another.
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Ok so now my next "best even torque technique" question has to be, 1/4 turn Loc-Tite vs lightly bottomed threads.
I'm just guessing here, but our primary goal is to allow all the studs to fully float evenly thru heat and pressure cycles. Which bottomed they likely do not. So using Loc-Tite actually allows for heat expansion, without allowing rotation? Am I close?
Or is our goal just to hold em even long enough to get everything torqued down? Curious, because that is moving away from the lightly lubricated threads belief of no drag on the fastener equals truer values.