Lol, you know what I love more than anything? Passing those big rich guys in their 4000hp Spencer's in our nortech! A lot of these big sportys will keep up with the twin and some trip center consoles around here, but it always surprises them when they can't keep up with the old 392 hehe. Quad mercs and 87mph
Twins with Twins, Anyone?
- Thread starter kidturbo
- Start date
Lol, you know what I love more than anything? Passing those big rich guys in their 4000hp Spencer's in our nortech! A lot of these big sportys will keep up with the twin and some trip center consoles around here, but it always surprises them when they can't keep up with the old 392 hehe. Quad mercs and 87mph
Hehe, you ridden in a Freeman yet? I just dialed in a 37 with Quad 300 Yamahas. He cruises at 47 knots...
87 is rolling out....:woott:
When I had the first Duramax boat my buddy bought a 19' flats boat with 300 V-Max. I could run away from him for short distances, then I'd have to get out of the throttle. Where he could run 70mph wide open all day, till the tank ran dry... That's where the outboard have it over inboards.
Some pics of the first short block assembled.
One little mod we did on these blocks was replacing the press in oil passage plugs with threaded brass plugs. The front plug needed a little custom grove cut to insure full oil flow to that main port. We also reverted back to a one piece cam gear.
Everything else on the bottom end was spot on for specs and spins with little effort.
One little mod we did on these blocks was replacing the press in oil passage plugs with threaded brass plugs. The front plug needed a little custom grove cut to insure full oil flow to that main port. We also reverted back to a one piece cam gear.
Everything else on the bottom end was spot on for specs and spins with little effort.
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That's some nice paint/powder work on the motor. Going to look awesome!
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Thanks. Billet upper covers should be here this week. I cut them out of 1/2" so we can do some old school looking Fenton styling to them.
As for protrusion, there wasn't enough to make it worth measuring. Could have ran A gaskets without any issues. We were originally going with Empire cams, so also cut the pistons to match their stage 2 specs. When that fell through, the cam we choose doesn't require any relief work. Add that to the upgrade springs and these should be safe to free rev over 5k..
As for protrusion, there wasn't enough to make it worth measuring. Could have ran A gaskets without any issues. We were originally going with Empire cams, so also cut the pistons to match their stage 2 specs. When that fell through, the cam we choose doesn't require any relief work. Add that to the upgrade springs and these should be safe to free rev over 5k..
Received the raw upper valve covers from water jet today. Believe I can work with these thick chunks.
Also received "16" injectors and some return line kits today from Andrew. Brand new Bosch sticks with 80% over tips. He bench tested them and then indexed the heads for me so all wires run in same direction on both banks. But I'm pretty certain he's trying to make back all that $$$ he paid for my Duramax boat... :rofl:
Also received "16" injectors and some return line kits today from Andrew. Brand new Bosch sticks with 80% over tips. He bench tested them and then indexed the heads for me so all wires run in same direction on both banks. But I'm pretty certain he's trying to make back all that $$$ he paid for my Duramax boat... :rofl:
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Have you ever heard of anyone having any trapped air in upper parts of the cooling system (heads)? Will has his BBC high spots tapped to allow any air pockets to escape. Not sure why that would be an issue for marine if it's not a problem in my truck.
From speaking with Curtis Halvorson about this several times, you likely won't need to worry about it at planned power levels.
Issue arises from boiling coolant inside the heads at higher power levels. Curtis had issues with melting the heads down due to trapped air pockets on his salt flats racers. His cure was to create a vent plate that bolts to the heads behind the exhaust manifolds and takes advantage of those freeze plugs holes in the heads. He built a thin plate that allowed some coolant and air from problem areas to be vented directly back to the expansion tank. Problem solved.
The second issue on the Duramax coolant system is the OEM pump has cavation issues at higher RPM's. Like 3600 and up. As you well know cavation creates air bubbles and cut the pump efficiency.
For this build I have a two step approach to preventing this. First I'm scrapping the OEM pump for a high volume electric. Was not sure about this until I received the CMI headers. They followed the same design used on Waglers / Tyson G's marine mock up, which put the seawater feed lines for the headers right where the factory water pump would come out... Problem solved, we can't run a OEM pump now. LOL
Second part of this approach is running a new waterless coolant which doesn't boil until like 370F.
http://www.evanscoolant.com/
It's $40 a gallon, but the reviews I've found are all good. No boil, no trapped air pockets or hot spots inside the heads. If ya want a bit of added insurance, I'd look into this coolant as an option in your engines also.
Issue arises from boiling coolant inside the heads at higher power levels. Curtis had issues with melting the heads down due to trapped air pockets on his salt flats racers. His cure was to create a vent plate that bolts to the heads behind the exhaust manifolds and takes advantage of those freeze plugs holes in the heads. He built a thin plate that allowed some coolant and air from problem areas to be vented directly back to the expansion tank. Problem solved.
The second issue on the Duramax coolant system is the OEM pump has cavation issues at higher RPM's. Like 3600 and up. As you well know cavation creates air bubbles and cut the pump efficiency.
For this build I have a two step approach to preventing this. First I'm scrapping the OEM pump for a high volume electric. Was not sure about this until I received the CMI headers. They followed the same design used on Waglers / Tyson G's marine mock up, which put the seawater feed lines for the headers right where the factory water pump would come out... Problem solved, we can't run a OEM pump now. LOL
Second part of this approach is running a new waterless coolant which doesn't boil until like 370F.
http://www.evanscoolant.com/
It's $40 a gallon, but the reviews I've found are all good. No boil, no trapped air pockets or hot spots inside the heads. If ya want a bit of added insurance, I'd look into this coolant as an option in your engines also.
Evan coolant has been around for a long time. Only issues I know of are cold weather related and it is/was flammable. I beleive one of the salt flats racers burnt to the ground due to if catching on fire.
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Ya but greatly reduced when mixed with water from my understanding.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I noticed the Flash Point is like 247f on both...
Speaking of fire,, rather than putting an air knife on each turbo for a emergency shut down, what's anyone tested far as chemical suppression for halting a run away?
I know Halon works great but is hard to find now. Anyone have experience with Co2 or FE-36 solutions? FireBottle is using FE-36 and seems to be a leader now on remote suppression systems. Just no idea if that has any side effects on internal parts when you feed it to an engine. I'm adding something as a safety since I don't know these turbo's well enough to trust the engines life or mine to a $2 seal..
Speaking of fire,, rather than putting an air knife on each turbo for a emergency shut down, what's anyone tested far as chemical suppression for halting a run away?
I know Halon works great but is hard to find now. Anyone have experience with Co2 or FE-36 solutions? FireBottle is using FE-36 and seems to be a leader now on remote suppression systems. Just no idea if that has any side effects on internal parts when you feed it to an engine. I'm adding something as a safety since I don't know these turbo's well enough to trust the engines life or mine to a $2 seal..
Cavitation. Doesn't create air pockets... It creates vacuum pockets..
Increasing supply inlet or slowing pump down really only fixs
Increasing supply inlet or slowing pump down really only fixs
Not sure about FE-36, but CO2 would work, but getting the right ratio would be tricky. You want enough CO2 so the diesel can't burn (displace enough oxygen), but not so much that it causes excessive cylinder pressure as the engine starts to die.
Personally, I would do something mechanical to stop the air supply. It is easy and reliable. Chemical suppression is a balancing act. Too much and it can want to hydrolock the motor, too little and the motor won't shut down.
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Personally, I would do something mechanical to stop the air supply. It is easy and reliable. Chemical suppression is a balancing act. Too much and it can want to hydrolock the motor, too little and the motor won't shut down.
Sent from my FlashScan V2