Twins with Twins, Anyone?

kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
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And the closest to actual retail weight without going over is, TheBac..

By time we add all injectors, accessories, fluids, wiring and such, I'm guessing 1550 total package.
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JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Feb 14, 2007
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My transmission buddy didn't recognize it as anything common. Too beefy. Luckily it's in good shape. Inside filter is dodge for sure.
He must not work on many Dodge pickup transmissions or something. Unless the picture is very deceiving, that is exactly what they look like.

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kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
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LoL.. I agree with that picture.

Yeah had at least 3 parked on the lot when I was there. We got to looking at the the planetaries and drum, which must of made it look beefier.

Thanks, that completes the rebuild parts list.



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kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
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Few more pics showing some of the clearance considerations we had to work around. Biggest being turbo to hatch "acrylic" pannel.

Also upgraded all the hose clamps to 316 SS Tbolt. Anyone wanta guess price for all those clamps??
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kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
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Ok new issue for the week.

Turbos set 6" from the acrylic panels in hatch. With a 180F max continuous threshold, and a 250F molding temp, can see possible problem with using plexi now. Unless I shield the turbine and compressor housing. Which I would hate to do..

So where would one look to find some 3/4" glass panels custom cut to fit??

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2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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McMaster Carr is your friend

https://www.mcmaster.com/insulation

They have ridged, flexible, cloth, strips, moldable, high temp, medium and low temp, etc

But if it was me I'd secure some mineral wool up there. It is probably the best insulator for high temps. Better R-value them ceramic, fiberglass, silica, etc. And cheap too. Can get it at most hardware stores where the fiberglass is found

You can get foil backed version at grainger: https://m.grainger.com/mobile/produ...ineral-Wool-Foil-19NE81?breadcrumbCatId=28202
 
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kidturbo

Piston Tester
Jul 21, 2010
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Trying to avoid wrapping them if I can. I have blanket for turbine side, but from our dyno data, the air exiting that compressor is 500F. While under power the turbo should be moving enough air from that area, and there is vents front of hatch.

So my biggest concern is heat soak when slowing down. If I switch to real glass panels, that becomes less of an issue.

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2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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LB7 must of hacked my computer. Awfully close on his guesses.

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My job(s) always seems to have me making snap judgments. "Need that information right now", "how do we take care of..." kind of stuff so after a while I got good at it. As long as it is something I can think with and have at least some experience in. Seems everywhere I go people are asking me questions.

I always thought, make yourself valuable and figure out how to do something no one else in the company can do and you are less likely to be laid off. This was one of them
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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Trying to avoid wrapping them if I can. I have blanket for turbine side, but from our dyno data, the air exiting that compressor is 500F. While under power the turbo should be moving enough air from that area, and there is vents front of hatch.

So my biggest concern is heat soak when slowing down. If I switch to real glass panels, that becomes less of an issue.

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I was thinking that you wanted to cover the back walls with the insulation. Are you thinking free standing insulation or securing it to something? Or are you thinking actual glass like window or safety glass, etc?