Twins with Twins, Anyone?

LBZ

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Jul 2, 2007
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Not sure what you are all about for cosmetics but some stick on heat reflecting insulation would do the trick I’m sure. A few runs and then a couple spot shots with the temp gun will tell you where you need it. It does work quite well.
 

kidturbo

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Jul 21, 2010
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Yeah some good foil backed insulation would help keep the paint happy on top side. Far as the glass area, I'm guessing it will see +200F for short periods. The vents in front should keep things cool while moving. Just no way to tell until it's actually on the water.
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2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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I think he is more interested in the hatch. Originally it was supposed to be acrilic/plexiglass but with the turbo being close he was worried about the temps. I missread and thought it was the fiberglass boat he was trying to protect

Fot the hatch, I think he is going to have to use some tempered glass and have it water jet to shape. Just make sure it is not laminated as the jet will blast between the layers and destroy it
 

1FastBrick

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I think he is more interested in the hatch. Originally it was supposed to be acrilic/plexiglass but with the turbo being close he was worried about the temps. I missread and thought it was the fiberglass boat he was trying to protect

Fot the hatch, I think he is going to have to use some tempered glass and have it water jet to shape. Just make sure it is not laminated as the jet will blast between the layers and destroy it

Only when you Pierce into laminated glass. If you pre-drill a hole for inner shape's or start the cut from outside the piece and cut into it, you won't have that issue. :thumb:
 

kidturbo

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Jul 21, 2010
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Got the injectors back with the new 200% over LBZ nozzles this time.

Also reclocked all the solenoids "again" so connectors point towards the clamps this time. The new angle allows all the return line tees to be in a straight row, which should look better than last version. Now just waiting for the new SS tees to top em off.
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JoshH

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Got the injectors back with the new 200% over LBZ nozzles this time.

Also reclocked all the solenoids "again" so connectors point towards the clamps this time. The new angle allows all the return line tees to be in a straight row, which should look better than last version. Now just waiting for the new SS tees to top em off.
Do your return lines not shoot over the top of the connectors? I'm interested in your stainless tees. Is this something you are making/had made, or is it a kit someone sells?
 

kidturbo

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With all wiring connectors pointed down to headers the tees and lines have no interference running with groves in upper covers. Here is the stainless tees Andrew had someone sent him as sales demos while back. Trying to source another second set outa Europe.
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kidturbo

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This week's projects. Plumbing PS, a little differently than most. Have two pumps / engines, and only one pump resavour.

Rather than mount the tank on one engine and have a crossover line always in the way, I'm mounting it 6' away. Which opens ya up to air locks in hoses. Unless ya mount the inlets facing down, and both lines feed upward. Just creates some new clearance issues.
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kidturbo

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Also wrapping up the closed loop cooling systems. Had a few temporary hoses we'd cut up to make things work on the dyno. Was time to replace those with the hard pipe. Added some extra clearance to fit an old school oil pressure safety switch, that will control the lift pumps..
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DAVe3283

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WINNER!!

You can defuel based on fuel temp, and with 300gal tank, I doubt it's ever gonna be an issue. And I have liquid/liquid fuel coolers on return side. So now I can tune to defuel if Oil Temp reaches xxx.

Plus fuel temp is in canbus data, so now it gets handed off to the dash gauges.

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Kinda reason I tried to tap a block plug first. But not enough meat and it split Into two pieces.

If I can find a thicker head 14mm like this brass LML adapter, bet it would work. Was pressed for time, so just went to plan B and did the remote filter housing on these puppies. When I get time I'll find a better sensor option with correct scaling.

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The drill size was 27/64. While trying to dig up some details on that sensor I discovered the Cummings sensor is shorter than this one. Everything else about it looks the same. So I'll try to dig one of those up check resistance on it

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You ever get any farther on this project? I am looking to do the same thing, and use the fuel temp sensor (or an equivalent) to measure oil temperature. If I can get/make an adapter to thread it into the top port on the oil filter adapter, then make an extension harness, that would be pretty slick.

You wouldn't happen to know what the part number for the electrical connector is, would you? I can't find it in Techline.
 

kidturbo

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It works perfectly with no ill side effects. I do have a couple new connectors in a bag somewhere, might have the part # on it. Been a while since I ordered them. Typically I just reuse the stock connector and lengthen the wires.

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DAVe3283

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It works perfectly with no ill side effects. I do have a couple new connectors in a bag somewhere, might have the part # on it. Been a while since I ordered them. Typically I just reuse the stock connector and lengthen the wires.

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Good to hear! I could extend the wires, but I would prefer to make an extension harness if I can. If you find the part #, please let me know. I'll dredge the internet more later this week and try and find it myself too.