I have drilled one in the back of the pan before. Marked out a spot that was high and didn't interfere with the pan bolts, then took the pan off and did all the work. I will try and get a pic today.
Twins, up pipes and pedestal build...
- Thread starter 1lowdiesel
- Start date
This isnt a cummins, im not sure if you are trying to throw around turbo knowledge to build yourself up, but its not going to transfer over "directly". Sizing a turbo setup for a duramax is a bit different than sizing a turbo setup for a cummins. Mainly because we dont have a 70's technology boat-anchor of a head like the cummins does. Why do you think all these stock-head/cam 750hp cummins's are getting 70psi of boost crammed into them when you can make 750hp on a duramax running almost 30 psi less worth of boost. Its because our intake tract and heads actually flow decently.
(ok now im sure you're going to have 100 instances of "my buddy billy-joe-jim-bob's cummins makes 700hp running only 50psi, but whatever, you get my point)
With this setup Kyle is building, I bet he wont make much more than 50psi. Thats just coming from experience of building several duramax twin turbo setups using similarly-sized turbos. I built a big 366/480-race-cover setup for a customer a while back...his truck is a cc/sb lifted on 35's and runs 11's at over 120mph...so its making some power. Built motor, injectors, dual CP3's. When I was road testing the setup on the race tune, I never saw more than ~57psi.
I hope you have a wastegate on the hot pipe.
The last setup I made for my truck was a 480/1.32 over a stock LLY variable vane turbo. I didnt really notice any additional lag over the stock turbo/S475 twin setups ive built/driven. Again, its cummins vs. duramax air flow...Tuning of the rail pressure and turbo vane position tables plays a little part in this though.
Ben
Thanks Ben, I know there is a difference cummins and duramax. Most of our cummins have highly modified cylinders heads, one that actually flow better than the duramax heads that we flowed.
Yes our external wastegates are plumbed into the hotpipe, it would be pretty much a waste of time if your didn't.
As for turbos, we have run tons of them, and its not really a big deal to run a bunch more to find the best configurations.
Would like to see the flow sheets to prove that! A highly modified cummins head agaist a stock dmax head has a hard time beating it. But a modified dmax vs mod cummin no way. Would like to see. U cummin guys crack me up. Even if it did could never own one, I have enough scrap layin around the shop. Doesn't a dmax head flow 300% more or some god awful huge difference then a cummins to start with?
A single Dmax head flows that much more air??
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08 LMM Chevy CCSB
Relentless Diesel trans
JoshH EfiLive tuning
554hp 1014ft-lbs 7/30/11
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08 LMM Chevy CCSB
Relentless Diesel trans
JoshH EfiLive tuning
554hp 1014ft-lbs 7/30/11
IMAO when I read this last night. 300% more flow, wow. I can believe 125% more in stock form, but 300%. The duramax does has a better head design, as it should its a bigger engine. I owe both brands of trucks. Once I get some data and pictures of my R&D project, I'll start a new thread, we can discuss it there.
1lowdiesel, sorry for trash talk in your thread. Any updates?
I'm going to run the GT4088VGT (stock turbo with some upsizing) over a GT4508R, hopefully sometime this spring. Just have to get thru this duramax engine build that been sucking up all my cash flow.
Our cummins head flows around 350cfm at 0.500 lift, and a ton more at 0.700 lift. Not publishing pictures or hard data on this head, as its going onto an unlimited puller/super stock diesel.
Not trashin either. Thats why I put a ? Mark at the end of the comment. I just know Its a huge difference in flow. I understand on not posting due to knowledge and what u are doin to a pull truck. Just would like to see that much flow, being there so choked to start with. Back on topic.
Any updates? Finished with paint? Hp numbers?
Any updates? Finished with paint? Hp numbers?
Not that I know anything, but I'll go out on a limb here. One would think (or me atleast) that the cummins should have the higher flowing head other than the rpms they see. Just because theres a .7 liter difference doesn't mean anything. each head on the duramax only has to feed 4 cylinders, which are smaller chambers vs. the 6 cylinder of the cummins. Sorry if it feels like abunch of us are ganging up on you now lol. I just wanted to comment though, not picking on the dodge guy :thumb:
I'm not picking on anyone. But they end up doin so much to the cummins to get any power out of them, and I always ask to what point is it still considered a cummins. I have just never been impressed with them. But that my opinion.
What color u end up goin with? Color match?
What color u end up goin with? Color match?
The piston bore in a duramax is bigger than the 5.9L The stroke isn't quite as long. 0.7L is lots of more CFM to push thru. Duramax also push more rpms than cummins, stock.
5.9L cummins bore X stroke (4.02 X 4.72)
6.6L duramax 4.0551 X 3.8976
No worries guys, I'm learning on the duramax.
Did you punch a hole into the upper oil pan? The duramax has two piece design, actually is a pretty cool design, acts like a windage scraper and baffle. Been thinking about punching a hole there or into the front cover. I never seen my truck together in one piece. Just trying to bring the truck back to life.
Marked, pulled the pan, drilled and welded a fitting on.
Attachments
Was that really a good idea to put the drain right there? Wouldnt you get oil "backing up" in the line since its below the oil level in the pan?
Looks great but like BAC said i dont think that will work, there is no way the oil will drain because the pan is full off oil and that is heavier than the oil in the drain line. I think you need to redo the drain line it is suppose to be in the upper oil pan or valve cover imo.
The level in the hose will just be as high as the oil level in the pan never higher since gravity will keep the level equal and always draining to that level
I don't see what's so hard really..I removed my starter, marked it and checked it a few times, didn't like the idea of drilling it with oil so I drained it, removed pan, drilled from underneath(I didn't have a right angle drill, used a regular cordless and step bit) tapped it, and JB Welded a fitting in so it seals, you can use a -10AN cap if you ever want to remove your turbo kit..put pan back on and you're golden!!
has anyone tried drilling and tapping the valve cover.? pretty sure i have seen trent do this and has worked great. i could be wrong tho.