yea buddy!! I had to send it back to get a pipe moved in a little then it should be good to go..Twins, up pipes and pedestal build...
- Thread starter 1lowdiesel
- Start date
yea buddy!! I had to send it back to get a pipe moved in a little then it should be good to go..
Yes for my atmo charger, everything else is done including the wiring. Once i do this i can dry fit everything one last time, then send it all out for powdercoat.
Then i can start on my 31!!
Then i can start on my 31!!
There is a guy just down the street from our facility here in Shelbyville. He's done a few things for us and they came out great and he was quick too.
Why doesnt lly have oil feed ports in the sides of the block lb7 and lbz do i know for a fact.I just asume lly does also.I just hooked up a manuel oil gauge on my lb7,took the bolt out of the side of the block and it reads just fine
Trent has a write up on the return to be drilled into the upper oil pan but I wish I had some measurements and I think I have to take the starter off..measurements from two edges to the center of the hole I need to drill would put me at ease..
I would be interest in this also,i have a pan im looking to install twins in the future and i have an oppertunity to do this and im thinking of preinstalling a fitting and line just to have it done.Would be very hard later on.
I wish the charger was a bit higher cause then I could've just put right into the valve cover.
I might go into the side of the pan so i don't have to take the starter out. Then i can drill a hole and weld a bung right on there to thread a fitting in. I'm just worried about clearance inside the pan when i drill through.
I might go into the side of the pan so i don't have to take the starter out. Then i can drill a hole and weld a bung right on there to thread a fitting in. I'm just worried about clearance inside the pan when i drill through.
um yeah neither does any other duramax.
theres at least 6 or 7 oil feed blocks on a duramax block. Im not sure what you think you are going to accomplish by drilling holes in your block when theres already everything you need without getting fancy. Unless you're doing it "just to be different."
This isnt a cummins, im not sure if you are trying to throw around turbo knowledge to build yourself up, but its not going to transfer over "directly". Sizing a turbo setup for a duramax is a bit different than sizing a turbo setup for a cummins. Mainly because we dont have a 70's technology boat-anchor of a head like the cummins does. Why do you think all these stock-head/cam 750hp cummins's are getting 70psi of boost crammed into them when you can make 750hp on a duramax running almost 30 psi less worth of boost. Its because our intake tract and heads actually flow decently.
(ok now im sure you're going to have 100 instances of "my buddy billy-joe-jim-bob's cummins makes 700hp running only 50psi, but whatever, you get my point)
With this setup Kyle is building, I bet he wont make much more than 50psi. Thats just coming from experience of building several duramax twin turbo setups using similarly-sized turbos. I built a big 366/480-race-cover setup for a customer a while back...his truck is a cc/sb lifted on 35's and runs 11's at over 120mph...so its making some power. Built motor, injectors, dual CP3's. When I was road testing the setup on the race tune, I never saw more than ~57psi.
I hope you have a wastegate on the hot pipe.
The last setup I made for my truck was a 480/1.32 over a stock LLY variable vane turbo. I didnt really notice any additional lag over the stock turbo/S475 twin setups ive built/driven. Again, its cummins vs. duramax air flow...Tuning of the rail pressure and turbo vane position tables plays a little part in this though.
Ben
No i'm slacking. Been procrastinating on drilling the oil pan, so i built a frame for my 31 Chevy then put the body back together. Once i'm able to get that out of the garage i'll be able to pull this in and do the pan, really don't feel like laying in the rocks.