Twins, up pipes and pedestal build...

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mikeholmen

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Sep 8, 2011
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You get the S476 with the LI wheel? I've had pretty good success running the 1.1 T-6 83 turbine wheel. Even tried the S478 LI on a truck, was impressed how well it spooled. Those turbos are priced right for those on a budget. We did one truck at 1000rwhp, with a little spray, so you'll blast thru your 600rwhp number.

You done anything with the internal gate on the GT37? What pressure you going with boost actuvator? I like to run 24-26 psi just to start opening the gate. Which GT37 you going with, looks like a GT3788R one off a 3rd gen dodge? We have massaged the turbine housing around the wastegate flapper for more flow and some flow smoothing.

Another good choice is the S480, tried that as well. Abit more lag.
 
1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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Sep 18, 2008
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Yea i'm gonna machine the hole to about the size the of the flapper. Not sure what wheel is in the s476 but i'll prob switch it to a billet wheel once it goes to Fleece. The 1.32 is the only thing i'm concerned about but we'll see how it goes. I'm gonna have to relocate the gate b/c right now it hits the bridge tube.

I just ordered the rest of my boots and heater hose from http://www.siliconeintakes.com so i should hopefully be able to finish it up this week.
 
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mikeholmen

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Sep 8, 2011
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Airdrie, alberta
I've done a few dodge cummins 5.9L running that same turbine combo. Works well, your going to be fairly happy. Your worst enemy will be from boost leaks, as now you can easily exceed 60psi. We had to build bracing to keep air tubes from popping off air lines. You do pretty decent work. You going to run the 45 deg rubber air bootie for the S475?

Honestly there isn't to much different between the old S475 and S476 LI. The wheels are the same size, and the compressor covers interchange between both turbos. I have both an old S475 and a new S476 LI in my garage. BW has done abit off extra machining on the compressor cover around the surge bleed reliefs, to help compressor stalling issues.
 
1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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No I'm running the v band from the s4 to the s3. The only boots will be on the ic tubes and the straight boot on the inlet for the s3.
 
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mikeholmen

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Airdrie, alberta
How are you doing the oil supply/drains from the primary turbo? There are a few plugs on the passager side you can tap in pretty easy. You punching a hole into the pan?
 
1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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I'm going to the factory spots in the valley for my top charger. On the s4 i'll use the feed at the front of the block then the drain will have to go into the pan b/c of how low the charger sits. I wanted to go into the valve cover but it's too high.
 
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mikeholmen

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Sep 8, 2011
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Airdrie, alberta
Could always runs a electric turbo scavanging oil pump and then plumb it into the valve cover. LLY's don't have any oil return plugs in the block. Coming from cummins 5.9/6.7 stuff, there turbo oil return plugs/oil feeds all over place. I'm going to drill my block on my LLY when I take it in for machining. Just found out my piston cylinder clearance on my engine is currently 4-5 thou. Once I power hone the cylinders, I'll probably be 6-7 thou. Too much for duramax stuff, just right for cummins:rofl:
 
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mikeholmen

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With my engine out of the truck, its pretty easy for me to just punch a hole into the engine block. Might become a standard for my duramax builds. Could also punch a hole into the front gearbox cover, be carefull as its pretty busy inside. My truck is in pieces, so I'm just getting a plan put together.
 
1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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Sep 18, 2008
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Yea i'd imagine that it would be quite a bit easier to do with the motor out.

Got most of the welding done last night

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1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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Changed up the ds ic tube cause I didn't like the look of the 45* boot. Also finished up the support and hot pipe.

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1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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Thanks that's kinda the point.

Got my oil feed for the s4 done. Went to put the fitting on the block drain for the top charger but didn't have enough clearance to get the fitting threaded on. So I had to cut it off flush and turn it about 20* so it would clear the up pipe flange. Should be good to go now.

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Then I found this thing and almost shat myself. Had to run inside and grab the .22 to put him down lol

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1lowdiesel

1lowdiesel

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Sep 18, 2008
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Ok so i've been slacking on this a bit and i think it's because i'm to the point where i need to tap the pan for the drain.

I'm a bit leary about doing this and i'm just looking to see if anyone has any insight on making my life easier.
 
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