Twin build

dmaxvaz

dmaxvaz

wannabe puller
Nov 22, 2006
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Dmax15 said:
What's the reasoning? I was thinking about leaving it in since it runs so well how it is but then I was thinking it only takes a second to swap it out and see what it does. With it out wouldn't it let the exhaust bypass the smaller turbo quicker to spool the larger one?
Click to expand...
for me, it helped balance drive psi. if not, you dump too much from the little charger, dp goes up some(larger charger will put out more than it should), lower and midrange spoolup is faster with the boost valve in.
 
SDP

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
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Port Angeles, WA
dmaxvaz said:
for me, it helped balance drive psi. if not, you dump too much from the little charger, dp goes up some(larger charger will put out more than it should), lower and midrange spoolup is faster with the boost valve in.
Click to expand...

Yeah I understand, my thought is you want drive pressure to be equal in both between the turbos and before the stock turbo, or balanced like you said.

For my plastic inner fender well I just heated it and molded it were I wanted it, ended up needing to trim near the frame because it changed shape a bit.
 
SDP

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
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Port Angeles, WA
3" hot pipe between the chargers, 3.5" cold between chargers, 4" downpipe. Those are all 16 gauge mild steel and I used SS flanges where I could. The intake is 5" aluminum.
 
SDP

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
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Port Angeles, WA
dmaxvaz said:
where did you get the 5" aluminum elbow?
Click to expand...

From racepartsolutions I believe, its not a tight enough bend though. I've found a place somewhat local that can make any bends with them that I want, so eventually I'll have a replacement that fits better.
 
SDP

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
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Port Angeles, WA
mainer said:
any chance i can see more pictures of how you made your hotpipe with the vband off the stock charger? looks clean and easy to take on/ off compared to the one i made that has to be twisted in there just the right way.
Click to expand...

Here are some better pictures of it for you.
1turboflange1.jpg

1turboflange2.jpg



The truck runs and drives really nice now especially with the downpipe hooked up to the exhaust, quieter than before other than the turbo noise. Spoolup is definitely faster than stock as well.
 
SDP

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
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16
Port Angeles, WA
So I've been trying to get this exhaust vibration to stop with no luck, it vibrates pretty badly from the beginning of the previously used 4" exhaust to mid way down to the bed area. It's not touching anything except for the rubber hangers, the big turbo itself isn't vibrating too bad at all but somehow it is being magnified once it gets down below the cab and can easily be heard.

Currently I'm using a 4" band clamp to connect the downpipe to the front pipe, is there another option that I should be looking at?

I'm thinking maybe use some 4" flex pipe to connect the two and it should stop the vibration noise? Probably just weld one end to the front pipe and reuse the band clamp to connect to front pipe. Here are the two pieces I'm talking about, let me know if there anything else I should think about.
 

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dmaxvaz

dmaxvaz

wannabe puller
Nov 22, 2006
1,132
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METRO DETROIT
dmax15 said:
so i've been trying to get this exhaust vibration to stop with no luck, it vibrates pretty badly from the beginning of the previously used 4" exhaust to mid way down to the bed area. It's not touching anything except for the rubber hangers, the big turbo itself isn't vibrating too bad at all but somehow it is being magnified once it gets down below the cab and can easily be heard.

Currently i'm using a 4" band clamp to connect the downpipe to the front pipe, is there another option that i should be looking at?

I'm thinking maybe use some 4" flex pipe to connect the two and it should stop the vibration noise? Probably just weld one end to the front pipe and reuse the band clamp to connect to front pipe. Here are the two pieces i'm talking about, let me know if there anything else i should think about.
Click to expand...
i have a vibration that started after i put my twins on too. I have tried tightening everything up, made sure nothing touches, and i have considered what you have pictured. Let us know if it works. Mandrel-bends.com have them also
 
SDP

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
0
16
Port Angeles, WA
dmaxvaz said:
i have a vibration that started after i put my twins on too. I have tried tightening everything up, made sure nothing touches, and i have considered what you have pictured. Let us know if it works. Mandrel-bends.com have them also
Click to expand...

Yeah but they only go up to 3.5".

A v-band clamp is a solid mount too so it wouldn't solve my issue.

The one I pictured is made by OBX which is cheaper but as long as it works I guess, it also has enough lengths on the ends to band clamp the one side to the downpipe after I weld the other end to the front pipe.
 
rcr1978

rcr1978

Active member
Apr 1, 2007
790
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28
Spring Creek, NV
Exhaust and Intake?

How did you guys tie into you aftermarket exhaust? Did you just cut off the necked down V-band clamp or cut of the entire 90 degree bend on the front pipe? Also on the intake do you guys see any water ingestion on rainy/snowy days? Same goes with intake temps I guess if its not down far enough inlet temps may be high then more chances of water ingestion. Could you guys post some pics of the intake and exhaust where you tie into the front pipe?

Thanks for all replies this thread has been extremely helpfull!
 
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