Twin build

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
0
16
Port Angeles, WA
My downpipe has a 90* at the bottom, it barely squeezes in and out of there between the frame and motor/tranny cooler lines. I just cut the 90* off the aftermarket front pipe and lined the new downpipe up with it and tacked it into place, I went piece by piece working my way down.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
28
48
Boise Idaho
The air filter is almost still in the factory location, a little lower but not much. As long as you install your inner fender skirt you shouldn't get much moisture, the headlight assembly protects it from the front.

The exhaust will get cut off right behind the 90* bend were the exhaust heads up to the down pipe. Then as mentioned above the new twin down pipe will butt up against it.

Hope that explains it for ya. I would post pics but I still can't figure it out. Anyone have a copy of Pic posting for Dummies they could send me :hug:
 

rcr1978

Active member
Apr 1, 2007
790
26
28
Spring Creek, NV
Thanks for the replies, it seams that doing this yourself has some big savings and it would be fun. I just cant drop $5K+ on a kit and I have the ability to do it myself thanks for everyones input.
 

quadracer37

New member
Mar 31, 2009
547
0
0
northern, IL
.. the vibration issues... did either of you try just running a peice of 4'' flex pipe? that would be cheaper than that braided peice he showed a picture of wouldnt it, or would that still be to solid maybe... just a thought.
 

insane3639

New member
Sep 22, 2008
26
0
0
No wastegate.

Yeah I'm planning on wrapping the tubing once I get it all together before I get it running here shortly. Return line will go to the pan, next to the starter, not sure if the fill tube would be to high or not though. The feed line will come from the hole in the block next to the mount.

What do you speak of? and where does the pressure come from to pump oil to the turbo? im confused on how tapping a hole in the block will pump oil to the turbo. Pics maybe if you can. thanks for the help

also is this the S475 with the 75mm inducer
 
Last edited:

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
0
16
Port Angeles, WA
How much did this cost for all of the tubing, flanges, clamps, and downpipe?

Still haven't added it up, some parts I had to reorder because they weren't what I wanted so it ended up costing more. A rough guess would be $1200-1300 for everything, so probably $600-700 for tubing, flanges, clamps, oil lines, fittings, gaskets, filter, silicone hoses, battery relocation, heat wrap, etc. The mounts I made came from scraps that were free.
 

Bako_Dmax

GTO Slayer
Apr 3, 2008
657
0
0
Bako
Still haven't added it up, some parts I had to reorder because they weren't what I wanted so it ended up costing more. A rough guess would be $1200-1300 for everything, so probably $600-700 for tubing, flanges, clamps, oil lines, fittings, gaskets, filter, silicone hoses, battery relocation, heat wrap, etc. The mounts I made came from scraps that were free.


Where did you buy the heat wrap from?
 

S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
4,008
18
28
Quncy, Fl
Still haven't added it up, some parts I had to reorder because they weren't what I wanted so it ended up costing more. A rough guess would be $1200-1300 for everything, so probably $600-700 for tubing, flanges, clamps, oil lines, fittings, gaskets, filter, silicone hoses, battery relocation, heat wrap, etc. The mounts I made came from scraps that were free.

Those prices included your second turbo also? I want a twin kit myself but if I can save a couple grand I might fab up one too.
 

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
0
16
Port Angeles, WA
Where did you buy the heat wrap from?

I got one 50' roll of heat wrap from race parts solution.

Everywhere I bought stuff from I was looking for cheapest I could find for quality stuff. Mandrel-bends.com was by far the best for tubing and everything got to me the day after I ordered, probably helped that I'm only 1 state away though.
 

insane3639

New member
Sep 22, 2008
26
0
0
Can you please describe where and how tapping the hole in the block pumps oil to the turbo im confused on where it is at:confused:
 

insane3639

New member
Sep 22, 2008
26
0
0
thank you very much so with this setup it will save someone approximately a couple grand over an equal MPI set
 

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
0
16
Port Angeles, WA
thank you very much so with this setup it will save someone approximately a couple grand over an equal MPI set

It would save money if you have the ability to make it yourself, not sure how much exactly. I wouldn't compare mine to MPI as I don't know whether their standard kit uses the same turbo or not, I believe they put a wastegate before the larger charger though. The plumbing is also different.
 

Bako_Dmax

GTO Slayer
Apr 3, 2008
657
0
0
Bako
Mine cost a little over $1000 to build.

I used blem bends off of ebay that cost $35 also got my turbo off of ebay for $500.:thumb:
 

kjp800

-
Aug 6, 2008
525
0
0
New Jersey
It would save money if you have the ability to make it yourself, not sure how much exactly. I wouldn't compare mine to MPI as I don't know whether their standard kit uses the same turbo or not, I believe they put a wastegate before the larger charger though. The plumbing is also different.

MPI does put a wastegate before their charger. I know your not running one, any problems? What's your reasoning for not using one? I'm curious if the couple hundred $$ for a wastegate is worth it or not. Thanks
 

SDP

AKA Dmax15
Dec 20, 2008
261
0
16
Port Angeles, WA
MPI does put a wastegate before their charger. I know your not running one, any problems? What's your reasoning for not using one? I'm curious if the couple hundred $$ for a wastegate is worth it or not. Thanks

I'm running the 1.32 ar exhaust housing, if I were running the 1.10 then I'd want to gate it I'm sure but $ is the reason I didn't go that route. It seems to be doing just fine without one but I'm sure there are gains to be had if I were to put one on, that's just my guess, if I have the extra money next summer I might try it.
 
Last edited: