LB7: Turbo go boom need opinoins on rebuild

ripmf666

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well its all apart ecept for the crank and rods injectors came out all the cups stayed seated now....
do i need to take the cups out to clean the heads up?
Does anyone have all the stock specs for everything on the block and crank ect.. i should check for play?
And who should i talk to at big dipper for nozzles?

also do i need to do an align hone without main studs????
the seals an everything look fine on the injectors should just need new copper washers right? or put new rings on them to?

an whats with the block moving with studs? im confused on this? what else is done while its apart weres a good source for the fuel system copper washers?

All the specs are posted on the site in the Gm spec area LBZ is the same if you do not find it under LB7. For what I can sell you the seal kit for it's easier replacing them now. Also you will need new rod holds in the lmm rod use the old once to check your specs same as the stock main bolts then replace with the new ones when you ready to tq and leave it. Why not just run a s366 ?
 
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DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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All the specs are posted on the site in the Gm spec area LBZ is the same if you do not find it under LB7. For what I can sell you the seal kit for it's easier replacing them now. Also you will need new rod holds in the lmm rod use the old once to check your specs same as the stock main bolts then replace with the new ones when you ready to tq and leave it. Why not just run a s366 ?

so the rod bolts are tq to yeild as well? good hell this list gets longer everyday:rolleyes: an i'll give george a call see what he can do fo nozzles. how much is that seal kit you have?

an whats relly going to be the difference between a s464 an s366? and it was my first goal to put a htt66 or silver 66 on but i can get the turbo and pedstal for 1200 to my door
 
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DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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AH that never pulled up when went there much better and anyone ever had problems getting the main caps to come off? and i take it you need a specail tool to do the front an rear seals on the crank?

sorry if i sound like a retard just the first time i've been this deep into a damx
 

sweetdiesel

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AH that never pulled up when went there much better and anyone ever had problems getting the main caps to come off? and i take it you need a specail tool to do the front an rear seals on the crank?

sorry if i sound like a retard just the first time i've been this deep into a damx

Yes there is a Kent Moore tool for the front and for the rear seals
as for the caps I just use a rubber mallot I dunno is that's right it's just what I did
 

JoshH

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When I pulled my caps I did so by sliding a bolt down each hole (don't engage the threads in the block), pushing them opposite directions, and wiggling the cap back and forth while pulling up slightly on the bolts. It kind of walks the cap up and out. Hopefully that makes sense. Also, make sure you have the side bolts out.
 

TheBac

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Yes there is a Kent Moore tool for the front and for the rear seals
as for the caps I just use a rubber mallot I dunno is that's right it's just what I did

Yep..I leave the bolts loose in the cap and tap them with a rubber mallet to wiggle the cap out.

One thing I liked about tearing a Dmax apart was not having to cover rod bolts with rubber hose when getting the pistons out. That, and no wear lip on the top of the cylinders to catch the rings on. :)
 
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wdino73

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I not trying to be mean, but if you don't know what a thrust bearing is, you should invest in a set of manuals, or make sure someone with engine knowledge helps with the build, Sry but if your going to try an max out the stock rods you better have your ducks in a row. :thumb:
Again I'm not trying to be rude or seem like a know it all, cause everyone has to start somewhere, just these motor are amazing an have to be right, just think about how much work you've got in tearing down, double the time to build it, you don't want to do it again, an thats not counting the 12 to 14 of the engine R+R. some of the bolts in these motors are stretch fit, It's not recommended to reuse them. Good Luck I'll help u if I can
 

DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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I not trying to be mean, but if you don't know what a thrust bearing is, you should invest in a set of manuals, or make sure someone with engine knowledge helps with the build, Sry but if your going to try an max out the stock rods you better have your ducks in a row. :thumb:
Again I'm not trying to be rude or seem like a know it all, cause everyone has to start somewhere, just these motor are amazing an have to be right, just think about how much work you've got in tearing down, double the time to build it, you don't want to do it again, an thats not counting the 12 to 14 of the engine R+R. some of the bolts in these motors are stretch fit, It's not recommended to reuse them. Good Luck I'll help u if I can

yep thats why i ordered new ones an i've never seen a thurst bearing like that so and 3 of them on one crank at least one end anyway maybe ihaven't been into enough motors but for 600 hp lmm rods will be fine turbo might change from the 464 but i dont plan on maxing out stock rods this will be a daily driver the built motor is going into a excab or reg cab :D
 
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DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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Yep..I leave the bolts loose in the cap and tap them with a rubber mallet to wiggle the cap out.

One thing I liked about tearing a Dmax apart was not having to cover rod bolts with rubber hose when getting the pistons out. That, and no wear lip on the top of the cylinders to catch the rings on. :)

ya that was interseting to see how the cylinders were looked new still after 200k:D and i had arp stud guides but with bolts i does make it easier. machine guy is just goin to lightly hone it to get ride of the glaze then thats it other then cleaning

Has anyone found a better deal on piston rings then 480? i bought fell over when i called gm a they said 125 a piston:eek:
 

TheBac

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Funny you should ask about rings....I about shit myself when I found out the actual cost, too. http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21670

Dont feel too bad about the thrust washer thing....I was shocked the first time I saw the Dmax bearing setup. I was used to the thrust washer being integral to the bearing halves, and seeing those three itty bitty separate pieces was more than a surprise.
 

ripmf666

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so the rod bolts are tq to yeild as well? good hell this list gets longer everyday:rolleyes: an i'll give george a call see what he can do fo nozzles. how much is that seal kit you have?

an whats relly going to be the difference between a s464 an s366? and it was my first goal to put a htt66 or silver 66 on but i can get the turbo and pedstal for 1200 to my door

On a LB7 we built for a friend it's running 45% over injectors and had a stock cp3 other then a LBZ regulator on it and. S366 still small tune msde 588 rwhp. It's ex cab 3500 drw truck and ran 12.88 coming out easy. Single cp3 truck socal LB7 cut and coat pistons crower rods stock heads stock cam. Othe then the cam and cran are keyed and we ended up also having the oil pump shaft and gear keyed.


On the turbo price you got I take it out of the for sale area. Also there is no down pipe or any oil drains or supply.If it's the turbo I think you been looking at with the 1.10 housing it's going to suck for a DD truck. I drove mine with the gt4202 with a 1.01 and it was ok was alot better then the gt4094 with the 1.06 and that was running a 1057 suncoast the gt42 had a 1055 suncoast. I don't see in you dig what's done to your trans what converter are you running? I know the truck that I posted above about is running a s366 charger and BigDipper trans with a Precision ML converter. I know I love driving my truck alot more now with the twins and the Precision ML converter over any setup I had before it's the best of both worlds.
 
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DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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its a custom stall converter and suncoast stage iv and ya on the nozzles i decided to go with 45% over cause 60% would really be over kill for 600hp. i think it might be a little tight on the converter for the 1.10 housing thats the only thing i don't like bout it but for the price i might have a local guy with a 1.0 housing i could trade him for.

a 66 s300 base was what i was looking for so or i could try a bd supermax and just change the wheels on it but again even at my cost from bd the s464 would be 600 bucks cheaper and dont close it as i have not paid him yet ssmeone could stil beat me to it
 

DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7

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Funny you should ask about rings....I about shit myself when I found out the actual cost, too. http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21670

Dont feel too bad about the thrust washer thing....I was shocked the first time I saw the Dmax bearing setup. I was used to the thrust washer being integral to the bearing halves, and seeing those three itty bitty separate pieces was more than a surprise.

what you doing for rings then? you going to try and reuse them lol that crossed my mind :spit: i think i might have found some for 400 bucks waiting to hear back from a buddy at a parts house.
an ya i have never ever seen thrust bearings that look like that when one fell of i thught i broke something at first ha ha :rofl: hows your build going bac? if you need any maching the guy i took mine to isnt extremly busy only backed up like a week or two and knows his shit i'll post up pics of my delipped psitons when he gets them done
 
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