Tuff Country owners
- Thread starter RENODMAX
- Start date
Maybe I missed it but is the TC 6" lift 6" with the bars cranked max or what? I guess what I'm really asking is what amount of lift is there when the CV's are just slightly negative? If anyone could give me info on the 4" for the same questions that'd be great.
I want to run 35's with -12mm offset without cutting my bumpers and no rubbing, doable?
I want to run 35's with -12mm offset without cutting my bumpers and no rubbing, doable?
6" is 6" with the bars at there normal setting
I am running 9" wide wheels with 0 off set and I had to trim the valence a tiny bit
I am running 9" wide wheels with 0 off set and I had to trim the valence a tiny bit
Yep, this lift is a definite True " no cranking" 6'' . If i cranked my bars it prob net 7.5'' -8'' .
What are the options for lifting the rear? And Russ, what mods have you done to get your 60' times? Thanks.
As far as lifting the rear. The 4" lift is almost even front to back with TB bolts backed out. Mine is 1/2" lower in the front. If towing heavy loads or sled pulling, I would ditch the 2" blocks and get 3" blocks.
My 60's were with M&H DR's 38-40F/35-38R, clamps on front and back of spring, TC shocks, 1" limit blocks in rear, and a little pre load in the front depending on track conditions.
My 60's were with M&H DR's 38-40F/35-38R, clamps on front and back of spring, TC shocks, 1" limit blocks in rear, and a little pre load in the front depending on track conditions.
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According to T.C. the 6" is a 4 3/4 inch drop and the 4" is a 4" drop. I have strait cv angles with a few turns on the T-bar bolts and am running 35-12.50-18" tires on a 5.5 B/S wheel. I had to trim the valance slightly and zip tie my back inner fender wells back a little for clearance with the 4" lift. I could probably get 6" of lift out of it if I wanted to crank the bars back up, but that would be counter productive IMHO... I only have 1/16th or so clearance running a 5.5 B/S wheel with this lift, been like that for a few thousand miles without issue, but I will probably switch to a 4.5 B/S wheel in the spring just to be on the safe side..
Thanks again Russ, so just to be clear you're running the 2" blocks? And the 1" limit blocks limit the rear suspension to 1" of travel? Thanks.
Edit: Did you have to run spacers with the PYO's?
Edit: Did you have to run spacers with the PYO's?
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Yes on the 2" blocks with 1" space, bump stops are trimmed back about half way (for pulling), but still have the 1" space. It corners alot better, but can be a little bumpy on the RR tracks. No spacers on the PYO's, and had about 1/4-3/8 clearance.
BTW- I have the one piece sub frame, not sure if the three piece makes a diff. with tire fitment!
BTW- I have the one piece sub frame, not sure if the three piece makes a diff. with tire fitment!
I have 5" BS and theyre just fine. At least half inch of clearance. If you have adequate clearance between the spindle and wheel and then suddenly you dont I can tell you that your problem isnt anything to do with your lift :hello:
Its actually 1/16th clearance from the side lug's on the mud grapplers to the upper A-arm. I had everything aligned within 10 miles of putting the lift on so I know everything (Camber, toe in, etc..) are in check. I have 18" wheels with a 5.5 B/S the spindle clearance is not an issue...
I have the 4'' 1 peice on the way. Just wondering if there is something I should be aware of while installing it or things to look for. I'm looking to get some 20s for it mounted on a 34-35 tire. Think I might go with the DC1 20x9 -13mm offset or something similar. Be installing 2'' pocket style flare all around when I'm done.
dont forget the beerI love my kit and I have said it before it is the best thing I have done to the truck
What are the advantages? better CV angles. center link? thanks-Curtis
Just be sure to measure twice when you cut your cross member. Buy new sawzall blades of course, other than that its really straight forward.
And curtis yes the cv angles are completely flat along with the tierod angles because they are flipped over and attatch to the top of the spindle.
Well my lift came in today and I'm going to try install it before the weekend is over. I'm still looking for shoes for it but I just wanted to make sure other than having proper tools to do the job, new sawsall blade etc. 18'' wheel with -12mm offset (4.5'') or more mounted on 34''-35'' shouldnt give me any trouble really...other than to trim the front bumper. Looking at a 325/315 probably..
