truck towing pictures...
- Thread starter malibu795
- Start date
As a person who lived and worked in Ridgecrest (and has since escaped): why?
Went to the Motion Tire 300 race that SNORE/MORE put on at the Wagon Wheel OHV area.
was a fun weekend..
Doing good.. liking it a lot!.. Egts same, oil temp dropped 10-15° less throttle too.. Truck is more responsive than with stock vvt
Only issue left is to figure out why the ecm randomly cut wot fuel from 1750uS to 1550uS with no codes.. Couple people have told its just and LMM thing... Idk... Yet
Seams the turbo probably run better at ~2000 but transmission won't.
With two dynos. Nov(400/800) 50° and Friday 396/750 75° and 50,000 miles between them
That's one reason I don't really like playing with turbos on lmm. They are picky as hell.. Hoping marks new 68 takes care of all that. I'm finishing up a lmm right now that hauls some large loads and we are using his 68 stage 2 r.
I wonder why oil temp dropped? Because the turbo is just oiled and not coolant cooled also?
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Mark wanted me to do his 68. Love too but couldn't reliably control stock charger.. I didn't want to drop 2200 and have same issues and blow it up on side of the hill under a load.. Couldnt risk it..Haven't had a chance to inspect stocker yet.
Oil controls the vanes.. Less oil needed for a non VVT turbo. Less heat put into oil..
GT4088R is oil/water cooled and Ball bearing
Tried rescaling MAF truck goes nuts..
Minuse VVT tables.. And pulled 1-2° in lower part throttle area..to help spooling.. Tune is the same as before
Large loads like me? My trailer pushes 28,000lbs when fully loaded.
Added a mag hytec diff cooler and some 75-140 synthetic oil.
Looking at doing 4.10s with my 32" tires definitely help around the 45-65 mph range.. Engine sweet spot is 1900-2300 when loaded
Mark wanted me to do his 68. Love too but couldn't reliably control stock charger.. I didn't want to drop 2200 and have same issues and blow it up on side of the hill under a load.. Couldnt risk it..Haven't had a chance to inspect stocker yet.
Oil controls the vanes.. Less oil needed for a non VVT turbo. Less heat put into oil..
GT4088R is oil/water cooled and Ball bearing
Tried rescaling MAF truck goes nuts..
Minuse VVT tables.. And pulled 1-2° in lower part throttle area..to help spooling.. Tune is the same as before
Large loads like me? My trailer pushes 28,000lbs when fully loaded.
Added a mag hytec diff cooler and some 75-140 synthetic oil.
Looking at doing 4.10s with my 32" tires definitely help around the 45-65 mph range.. Engine sweet spot is 1900-2300 when loaded
Yea he grosses 40k plus about once a month and about 25-30k all the other times it has a trailer hooked to it. this truck doesn't get drove empty much and puked it's 2nd engine out at 250k. Cracked 2 Pistons., 8 blew a hole and 6 was starting to crack. It got a set of finger ovals along with a full rebuild and 3388af. Should solve his problems.
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That man needs an engine oil cooler!
Fwiw I killed a lbz block with oil temp with bare 300hp
I also put on of these on as well.. Fan engages by 200° ect
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hda-2886
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I've thought about it and we might install later. We r getting the edge programmer off and going with some Mark tuning which should help a lot also. His old egt probe was at the bottom of the down pipe next to the exh connection. He was telling me it has never seen over 1300 degrees. Which I bet that's a good 3-400 degrees cooler right there.
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Current load... Towing c5500@30,000# flat ground: https://youtu.be/c2xfQoby5_c
I got ~275k between two dmaxs.. The one that failed had 1/2 the power this lmm got.. And no oil cooler.. Speaking from been there done that
I got ~275k between two dmaxs.. The one that failed had 1/2 the power this lmm got.. And no oil cooler.. Speaking from been there done that
Figured this might be a good place to ask for advice on a long trip.
I'm doing a 4,750 mile towing trip in early June pulling a 24ft gooseneck. OH to NM to NY to OH. I'm probably using my LB7 Duramax with 325,000 miles unless it fails me before I leave, in which I'd use old faithful. I consider myself a rookie, even though I've done a few 2500 mile loaded trips in the past. However, I've never done a long trip like this with a Duramax. All this talk about oil coolers, fan clutches, etc has got me thinking... is there anything I should do, watch for during, check, or buy before the trip?
Here's a run down on my truck:
325,000 mile LB7 Stock trans/axles
25k on new GM injectors
23k on new GM LBZ injection pump
IdahoRob EFI tuning [Optimized Stock, 50hp tow, economy, etc.]
K&N filter element
Muffler removed/piped
EGT/Boost gauges
Pulling a 2014 24ft PJ "Buggy" gooseneck 15,680lb trailer. 1/2 the trip empty, 1/2 with a Dodge Charger/Motorcycle/Toolbox/Shop supplies. I'm guessing the trailer is about 5,000lbs empty and 11-13k loaded.
I'm planning on fresh oil, clean filters, spare fluids, jack, and spare tires. I also need to replace a pitman/idler and two upper ball joints before I leave. I was thinking it'd be a good time to install airbags like I've been wanting to do. I keep telling myself not to over think it because someone out there is pulling a 20ft camper with a Ford Escape, but I've had catastrophic failures out on the road before and I like to be prepared for the worst.
Rig in question:
I'm doing a 4,750 mile towing trip in early June pulling a 24ft gooseneck. OH to NM to NY to OH. I'm probably using my LB7 Duramax with 325,000 miles unless it fails me before I leave, in which I'd use old faithful. I consider myself a rookie, even though I've done a few 2500 mile loaded trips in the past. However, I've never done a long trip like this with a Duramax. All this talk about oil coolers, fan clutches, etc has got me thinking... is there anything I should do, watch for during, check, or buy before the trip?
Here's a run down on my truck:
325,000 mile LB7 Stock trans/axles
25k on new GM injectors
23k on new GM LBZ injection pump
IdahoRob EFI tuning [Optimized Stock, 50hp tow, economy, etc.]
K&N filter element
Muffler removed/piped
EGT/Boost gauges
Pulling a 2014 24ft PJ "Buggy" gooseneck 15,680lb trailer. 1/2 the trip empty, 1/2 with a Dodge Charger/Motorcycle/Toolbox/Shop supplies. I'm guessing the trailer is about 5,000lbs empty and 11-13k loaded.
I'm planning on fresh oil, clean filters, spare fluids, jack, and spare tires. I also need to replace a pitman/idler and two upper ball joints before I leave. I was thinking it'd be a good time to install airbags like I've been wanting to do. I keep telling myself not to over think it because someone out there is pulling a 20ft camper with a Ford Escape, but I've had catastrophic failures out on the road before and I like to be prepared for the worst.
Rig in question:
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For something that low =less wind drag.. Heavy and low is better than light and tall... You're light and low.. I wouldn't worry too much about oil temps.. 325k fan seen better days..
110.00 for new fan clutch.. What I run direct bolt in
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hda-2886
How many miles on the serpintine belt? Conditions, shiny, glazed dry rotted? 35-40.00 new one
Oil temp.. Goes up oil pressure goes down.. Expect 5-10psi drop while towing vs just driving.. Be more noticeable out in the mountains in NM around Midwest and new york
Once you get loaded and rolling long stretches.. Pull the ramps off lay them flat and chain them..if straps, get something yo soften the edges..they will burn/rub through your straps..They catch sail loads of air!! I picked up ~2mpg with them down. Think screen door in a wind, on a bigger scale though...That's good bit if fuel over 5000 miles
Wheel bearing/brakes on trailer? Greased last? Shoe life? Brakes adjusted? Brake a way work?
Good tire gauge...
Trailer tires should be max cold psi.. They will increase 10-15# when hot. Thats normal.
Rear truck tires.. Bump ~15-20# or so over non trailering setup.. You're putting 1500-1800lbs in the back of your truck.. Under inflated =excessive heat= pre mature tire death... If you don't know set them at max cold psi run them till you take a break... After 200-300miles or so.. you'd be able to tell if you're over inflated for the load by the color of the rubber drop 5# then check next time you stop. I shoot for rough 95% tread touching
110.00 for new fan clutch.. What I run direct bolt in
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hda-2886
How many miles on the serpintine belt? Conditions, shiny, glazed dry rotted? 35-40.00 new one
Oil temp.. Goes up oil pressure goes down.. Expect 5-10psi drop while towing vs just driving.. Be more noticeable out in the mountains in NM around Midwest and new york
Once you get loaded and rolling long stretches.. Pull the ramps off lay them flat and chain them..if straps, get something yo soften the edges..they will burn/rub through your straps..They catch sail loads of air!! I picked up ~2mpg with them down. Think screen door in a wind, on a bigger scale though...That's good bit if fuel over 5000 miles
Wheel bearing/brakes on trailer? Greased last? Shoe life? Brakes adjusted? Brake a way work?
Good tire gauge...
Trailer tires should be max cold psi.. They will increase 10-15# when hot. Thats normal.
Rear truck tires.. Bump ~15-20# or so over non trailering setup.. You're putting 1500-1800lbs in the back of your truck.. Under inflated =excessive heat= pre mature tire death... If you don't know set them at max cold psi run them till you take a break... After 200-300miles or so.. you'd be able to tell if you're over inflated for the load by the color of the rubber drop 5# then check next time you stop. I shoot for rough 95% tread touching
On greasing axles... Most manufacturer lippert dexter alko recommend grease Jobs done 12,000 miles/12 months which ever comes first.... I run grease that has a min 500° drop temp rating on it..
To adjust brakes
Dexter and lippert run the same style.. They say brake spoon 15.00 or so at parts store.. flat screw driver work as well
https://youtu.be/Gzy21hU2fcY
To adjust brakes
Dexter and lippert run the same style.. They say brake spoon 15.00 or so at parts store.. flat screw driver work as well
https://youtu.be/Gzy21hU2fcY
Thanks for the advice, I was looking for guidance like that. If I see you on the road I'll buy you lunch.
Does anyone even use a CB anymore? I have one in the 12v, but haven't turned it on for a few years, I thought about swapping it into the Duramax for the trip.
Break away test is simple.. Especially loaded.. Should be new enough to have idiot lights.. If not pull the cable out with trailer connected. Put truck in drive and idle forwards trailer should roll about ~1' and stop the truck.
The 12 month thing is more for condensation turning stuff rusty inside
CB yeah.. Seam they only come on around traffic jams though
The 12 month thing is more for condensation turning stuff rusty inside
CB yeah.. Seam they only come on around traffic jams though
Found two things this morning, maybe I should make my own thread but I'll mention them anyways.
Brake away seems dead. No lights, but I didn't have the truck on it either. Don't they hold a charge?
Found a Allison leak. Driver rear on trans, looks like a NSS or something. It's got an orange gasket that seems to have pushed itself out a little. Is that gasket available and is it any easy fix?
Brake away seems dead. No lights, but I didn't have the truck on it either. Don't they hold a charge?
Found a Allison leak. Driver rear on trans, looks like a NSS or something. It's got an orange gasket that seems to have pushed itself out a little. Is that gasket available and is it any easy fix?
Brake a way box is "usually" charged by the constantly hot positive wire via the truck... Plug into the truck and it should read "charging". Batteries tend to die over time.
As for transmission make a thread.. Get a response faster that way
As for transmission make a thread.. Get a response faster that way