Going to Ridgecrest CA in this pic..
As a person who lived and worked in Ridgecrest (and has since escaped): why?
Going to Ridgecrest CA in this pic..
As a person who lived and worked in Ridgecrest (and has since escaped): why?
Heading home
How you like the new turbo set up?
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Doing good.. liking it a lot!.. Egts same, oil temp dropped 10-15° less throttle too.. Truck is more responsive than with stock vvt
Only issue left is to figure out why the ecm randomly cut wot fuel from 1750uS to 1550uS with no codes.. Couple people have told its just and LMM thing... Idk... Yet
Seams the turbo probably run better at ~2000 but transmission won't.
With two dynos. Nov(400/800) 50° and Friday 396/750 75° and 50,000 miles between them
Mark wanted me to do his 68. Love too but couldn't reliably control stock charger.. I didn't want to drop 2200 and have same issues and blow it up on side of the hill under a load.. Couldnt risk it..Haven't had a chance to inspect stocker yet.That's one reason I don't really like playing with turbos on lmm. They are picky as hell.. Hoping marks new 68 takes care of all that. I'm finishing up a lmm right now that hauls some large loads and we are using his 68 stage 2 r.
I wonder why oil temp dropped? Because the turbo is just oiled and not coolant cooled also?
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Mark wanted me to do his 68. Love too but couldn't reliably control stock charger.. I didn't want to drop 2200 and have same issues and blow it up on side of the hill under a load.. Couldnt risk it..Haven't had a chance to inspect stocker yet.
Oil controls the vanes.. Less oil needed for a non VVT turbo. Less heat put into oil..
GT4088R is oil/water cooled and Ball bearing
Tried rescaling MAF truck goes nuts..
Minuse VVT tables.. And pulled 1-2° in lower part throttle area..to help spooling.. Tune is the same as before
Large loads like me? My trailer pushes 28,000lbs when fully loaded.
Added a mag hytec diff cooler and some 75-140 synthetic oil.
Looking at doing 4.10s with my 32" tires definitely help around the 45-65 mph range.. Engine sweet spot is 1900-2300 when loaded
Yea he grosses 40k plus about once a month and about 25-30k all the other times it has a trailer hooked to it. this truck doesn't get drove empty much and puked it's 2nd engine out at 250k. Cracked 2 Pistons., 8 blew a hole and 6 was starting to crack. It got a set of finger ovals along with a full rebuild and 3388af. Should solve his problems.
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That man needs an engine oil cooler!
Fwiw I killed a lbz block with oil temp with bare 300hp
I also put on of these on as well.. Fan engages by 200° ect
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hda-2886
For something that low =less wind drag.. Heavy and low is better than light and tall... You're light and low.. I wouldn't worry too much about oil temps.. 325k fan seen better days..
110.00 for new fan clutch.. What I run direct bolt in
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/hda-2886
I'll look into that clutch, never put much thought into fan clutches.
How many miles on the serpintine belt? Conditions, shiny, glazed dry rotted? 35-40.00 new one
Not sure on the miles, but I keep a spare belt in every truck, I forgot to mention that.
Oil temp.. Goes up oil pressure goes down.. Expect 5-10psi drop while towing vs just driving.. Be more noticeable out in the mountains in NM around Midwest and new york
I'll keep an eye on the PSI, it's seems good for it's age so I'm told by my diesel dealership friend.
Once you get loaded and rolling long stretches.. Pull the ramps off lay them flat and chain them..if straps, get something yo soften the edges..they will burn/rub through your straps..They catch sail loads of air!! I picked up ~2mpg with them down. Think screen door in a wind, on a bigger scale though...That's good bit if fuel over 5000 miles
Good info, I've wondered how much it's dragging compared to my old trailer with slide in ramps. I'll definitely take them off for 1-2mpg!
Wheel bearing/brakes on trailer? Greased last? Shoe life? Brakes adjusted? Brake a way work?
I bought it new [2014] last summer and I probably haven't put even 3,000 miles on it thus far, maybe not even 2000. The brakes should be good, but I'll double check the grease. I've got to double check my brake away, never tested it, just assumed it was on.
Good tire gauge...
Trailer tires should be max cold psi.. They will increase 10-15# when hot. Thats normal.
Rear truck tires.. Bump ~15-20# or so over non trailering setup.. You're putting 1500-1800lbs in the back of your truck.. Under inflated =excessive heat= pre mature tire death... If you don't know set them at max cold psi run them till you take a break... After 200-300miles or so.. you'd be able to tell if you're over inflated for the load by the color of the rubber drop 5# then check next time you stop. I shoot for rough 95% tread touching
I bought a Long Acre from Summit last month, just got to take it out of the package. I got tired of cheap ones reading different each time I checked.
Good info and tactic on the tire contact method. I have load range E 265/75/16's, so maybe I'll start at 80psi and work back from there.