Immodium will help you with that little problem, Chris. :roflmao:
You still have more guts than most trying to do this.
You still have more guts than most trying to do this.
Truck painting project
- Thread starter thunder550
- Start date
I'll try to mix in 1 part Immodium when I mix up the next batch :roflmao:
It didn't look like it was going on super thick when I was spraying it...guess I learned a lesson for the next panel. I had some small runs here and there with primer, but nothing like this.
It didn't look like it was going on super thick when I was spraying it...guess I learned a lesson for the next panel. I had some small runs here and there with primer, but nothing like this.
Those runs look like one of my paint jobs one time. Getting them out wasn't much fun. Keep at it as it looks like you have the right temperment for the job. Good luck.
When u sand off the runs there will be a ton of small white dots (air that got trapped in run) so sanding and buffing won't fix it. They will show in black paint u will most likely need to sand smooth scuff blow light color and reclear panel.
This is what i had to do on my first black truck. Future reference if it starts to run start wiping runs away ASAP.
I can't remember if you are using a single stage enamel or what. Single stage Enamel is probably the most difficult to spray and have it turn out nice on the first time without having to wet-send. Anyone spraying single stage enamel needs patience and a good stroke and distance from the panel as well as tip. Pressure MUST BE set at the right level as well. My experience with that is I noticed a difference in 4 or 5 psi at the gun's regulating gauge and the spraying quality.
DO NOT MAKE IT SHINE WHEN SPRAYING YOUR COATS.
The reason I say no shine is because that is what I was taught because you only need to cover your area and your wet sanding and buffing does that portion. Once you try to make something 'shine' you usually put too much paint down and runs usually form, from slight to heavy depending.
If your panel is sprayed and you have maybe a light run LEAVE IT (just MHO) If the run is not drastic keep painting the panel. Let the panel dry completely and grab a razor that is not for a utility knife but for one of those cheap gasket scrapers, the rectangular shaped. Dull it on some window glass and bow it slightly. Now when the paint is dried, put slight amount of pressure on the razor and drag it DOWN the run repeatedly until the run is LEVEL with the rest of the panel. You will see shavings from this each pass. Now wet-sand it some to see if there is any small areas that may be higher than the rest of the panel around the run/drip. Go accordingly.
The reason I say 180 over 220 is because it cuts faster, job goes quicker but I guess this comes with how comfortable you are and the level of experience you have.
DO NOT MAKE IT SHINE WHEN SPRAYING YOUR COATS.
The reason I say no shine is because that is what I was taught because you only need to cover your area and your wet sanding and buffing does that portion. Once you try to make something 'shine' you usually put too much paint down and runs usually form, from slight to heavy depending.
If your panel is sprayed and you have maybe a light run LEAVE IT (just MHO) If the run is not drastic keep painting the panel. Let the panel dry completely and grab a razor that is not for a utility knife but for one of those cheap gasket scrapers, the rectangular shaped. Dull it on some window glass and bow it slightly. Now when the paint is dried, put slight amount of pressure on the razor and drag it DOWN the run repeatedly until the run is LEVEL with the rest of the panel. You will see shavings from this each pass. Now wet-sand it some to see if there is any small areas that may be higher than the rest of the panel around the run/drip. Go accordingly.
The reason I say 180 over 220 is because it cuts faster, job goes quicker but I guess this comes with how comfortable you are and the level of experience you have.
I'm doing 2 stage. Base went down really nice, I just overdid it on the clear. I was trying to make it look smooth while spraying, rather than waiting for it to flow together as it set up. Also,the time between coats on the tech sheet is 5-10 minutes...I was waiting 10 but I think that may not have been enough. I'm debating on whether I want to mess with trying to salvage the clear or just sand it off and start over.
paint
Hi,dirty dually here.I am a automotive painter outa Ontario Canada,If ya got any questions,ask away,I was in your shoes many moons ago!:thumb:
Hi,dirty dually here.I am a automotive painter outa Ontario Canada,If ya got any questions,ask away,I was in your shoes many moons ago!:thumb:
I have been using DuPont for over 20 yrs and don't go by what the sheet says,go by what the paint os doing,Turn the fluid delivery nob on the back of the gun,the one with the needle! oll the way in ,then turn out 2.5-3.5 turns,yoy wont need more than that,do all yout hard areas first,than start at the top and work your way down with 50 percent overlaps,and its all about distance from panel and speed,get a rythem going and youl nail it,promise!!!and thase runs wint come out with water sanding with a light paper,those are nasty spaghetti runs that never come out easily,may need a re prime and block with 320:thumb:
Been blocking/wet sanding for about 3 hours this morning, it's looking pretty good. With the results I've had so far, I was actually thinking that I could just continue to sand with finer grits and eventually buff it out, rather than starting over.
Question though - I burned through to the base coat in 2 really small areas and all the way down to primer in 1 small area. Can I touch these spots up? Everything around them is sanded to 600, I was thinking about maybe roughing them up to 400, shooting these areas with 2 more coats of base, then a couple coats of clear and then blending them in with the rest of the panel. Sound reasonable? Or should I just touch up the area where I burned through to primer with another coat or 2 of base, then re-clear the entire thing? I'm assuming I can just re-clear over the clear that has been wet sanded with 600?
Question though - I burned through to the base coat in 2 really small areas and all the way down to primer in 1 small area. Can I touch these spots up? Everything around them is sanded to 600, I was thinking about maybe roughing them up to 400, shooting these areas with 2 more coats of base, then a couple coats of clear and then blending them in with the rest of the panel. Sound reasonable? Or should I just touch up the area where I burned through to primer with another coat or 2 of base, then re-clear the entire thing? I'm assuming I can just re-clear over the clear that has been wet sanded with 600?
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If you blow in those areas so soon and put it on wet you will get what looks like a soor,you will see the edges of your burn through,i would dust a small amount of primer overlapping the burn throughs and let dry well before blocking,wet or dry with 320,that 5-600,you are going to see all those spaghetti runs unless you really take it down with a block,dont worry about burning through all over the place ,get it straight first,use 240 if you have to,once its straight prime areas than repeat your process,block complete area,not only the primer spot but where the primer meets the paint,i will help with whatever questions you have and it will work out,just be patient,you have done well so far!
I ended up blocking down the clear so it was smooth. I never burned totally through the primer, so I'm just doing base rather than primer/base, hopefully that won't cause me any problems.
The base is going on well, I adjusted my gun a bit...decreased the pressure so it's at 30psi at the gauge, turned the fluid knob in 2 turns after it started moving the trigger, and I'm doing fast passes overlapping about 75% or so.
The base is going on well, I adjusted my gun a bit...decreased the pressure so it's at 30psi at the gauge, turned the fluid knob in 2 turns after it started moving the trigger, and I'm doing fast passes overlapping about 75% or so.
Looks like you got it down nice,Good job:thumb:like to see it done.music helps get a rythem,yhats what I use in the booth!
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Thanks for your help so far, it's really helpful to be able to bounce ideas off someone who has done this before 
Did the first coat of clear as a tack coat, read in a few places that would help the subsequent coats keep from running.
Yes let it tack for 15 then nice even strokes,not to much material but youl gei it grass hopper,do the window opening first than top to bottom.You did a great job blocking those runs out,They Are really hard to remove without burning through all over the place.Good job!!!!
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I did the second coat, went a little slower. Maybe I'm just paranoid about spraying too much but I don't feel like I got enough on the panel. A couple places I read that the second coat should look like the finished product. Mine has tons of orange peel. Should I go even slower, or just keep at it the same way?
ok,now that you have a good base of clear,let it have it when it tacks good,you can tell when that is when you can drag your finger lightly across an unseen area and it doesn't mark or transfer clear to your finger,nice even strokes 4-5 inches away and try raising preasure for more atomisation and fluid and RYTHEM,dont go to slow or to fast nice and even coats,dont back track,leave the paint behind lookin smooth and finnished
Got it! Bumped the pressure up 10 psi and opened the fluid valve up 3/4 turn. Now we're getting somewhere
2 more coats to go...